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Evo Gauge Kit Install

Author: Mike Bumbeck
Page: 2
Last Updated: 11/3/2004

This job requires both experience and time. Allow at least five hours for completion. Wait until it's time to change your oil, as you will need to install the oil temperature sensor in place of the stock drain plug, and remove a plug next to the oil filter to mount the pressure sending unit. Disconnect the battery before beginning. Make sure you have oil pressure, and check for any oil leaks before taking a test drive.

Required Tools:

  • Metric Open and/or Box End Wrenches
  • Metric Sockets
  • Extensions
  • Oil Filter Removal Tool
  • 8mm Hex socket
  • Pliers-Clippers
  • Utility Knife
  • Philips Head Screwdriver

Materials:

  • Oil
  • Oil Filter
  • 16-18 Gauge Wire
  • Add-a-Circuit
  • Quick Connects
  • Hi-Temp Thread Sealant
  • Vacuum Hose Clamps
  • Volt-Ohm Meter Tester
  • Radio Relocation Kit
  • Radio Keys
  • 1.5-2 feet of vacuum hose
1.The 42 Draft Designs kit comes with everything you see here.
2.You'll also need this stuff - all available at your local parts source.
3.Remove the drain plug with a 17mm wrench, and allow the oil to drain.
4.Use your filter removal tool of choice, and spin off the filter
5.Remove the filter. Take some time. Go read the instructions. You really like oil.
6.Use a 8mm hex socket and extension to remove the plug next to the oil filter. The threads are coated with factory sealant so it will take some effort.
7.The pressure sender adapter will replace the plug. Apply hi-temp sealant to the first part of the adapter. Smooth into threads using finger. Wipe off excess sealant from first few threads and adapter face.
8.Thread in the adapter by hand, and tighten with 13mm wrench.
9.Apply hi-temp sealant to the elbow fitting.
10.Thread in the elbow by hand, and tighten with wrench.
11.Apply hi-temp sealant to the pressure sender. Remove any excess from face and first few threads.
12.Screw in pressure sender by hand and adjust adapter assembly for proper clearance. There's only one way that's right – you can't miss.
13.Install your favorite oil filter.
14.Make any final adjustments to the adapter assembly and install oil pressure gauge wire to oil pressure sending unit.
15.Install the oil temperature sending drain plug. Use a 19mm wrench to tighten it into oil pan. Use supplied copper washer.
16.Install temperature gauge wire. Write down which color wire goes to which sensor.
17.Tape ends of both wires to an unfolded coat hanger or stiff wire. Send wires up through the engine compartment in a path away from harm and heat.
18.Add 4.8 quarts of your favorite fully synthetic oil.
19.Remove the plastic firewall plug directly in front of the glovebox. Use a hole punch or your favorite method to make a hole in the center of the plug. Thread the two wires and the boost line through the hole.
20.Find the line that runs between your intake manifold and the BOV. This is where you will mount the "T" fitting for the boost gauge. Cut the line.
21.Put a quick release vacuum clamp on each end of the cut hose. Push the "T" fitting into the two ends, and use pliers to secure vacuum clamps. Make sure the restricted (small hole) part of the "T" ends up towards boost gauge.
22.Slide a 1.5-2 foot section of vacuum hose over the engine end side of the plastic boost line. Soapy water helps it slip. Place a vacuum clamp on the hose. Push the plastic boost line onto the "T" fitting.
23.Slide vacuum line up over the plastic boost line. Install vacuum clamp.
24.Remove the glovebox. Open and release the tab on the right of the compartment.
25.Remove the retaining tab on the left side and remove glovebox from its hinges by letting it drop.
26.Tape the end of the boost line and the two sending unit wires to the end of your coat hanger or stiff wire and send them through the hole in the firewall. Don't forget the grommet!
27.Remove the tape from the coat hanger and guide the wires up through the hole in the dash. Leave slack. Remove the coat hanger from the firewall and secure the grommet.
28.Wire up the gauge panel. Use supplied solution for gauge power. Run positive gauge power wire through the dash towards the cabin fuse panel.
29.Wire ground to chassis.
30.Hook up the boost line to the gauge.
31.For LED power make a separate daisy chain similar to the supplied power solution. Connect to LEDS. Positive to positive, negative to negative. Check the polarity of the LED's by connecting each one to a battery. If the polarity isn't right the LED's will not light. Run both leads towards the cabin fuse panel.
32.Remove the change box right next to the hood latch. Flip it over and you'll find a set of fuse pliers. Bonus!
33.Set up your Add-a-Circuit and crimp the positive gauge power wire into the butt splice. Use two mini-fuses of the same rating to make a complete circuit.
34.Insert the Add-a-Circuit into blank fuse panel slot 10 for switched (ignition) 12v power to the gauges. Count from the top – left to right.
35.Reach up behind the fuse panel and remove the dimmer switch. Remove the connector from the switch.
36.Connect the positive LED gauge light daisy chain lead to the green-white dimmer wire using a quick connect. Connect the negative lead to the black-yellow dimmer wire with a second quick connect and reinstall the switch.
37.Connect the sending unit wires, place the gauge panel, reconnect the battery, and test the gauges and lights. The LED lights should dim with rest of the gauge lights. Make any final wire length adjustments.
38.Pull off the A/C heater knobs and remove the Philips head panel screws behind them. Gently pry the panel off the center console.
39.Flip the whole assembly over and mark the outer two gauge brackets.
40.Remove both outer gauge brackets and bend out at the marks.
41.Reinstall both outer gauge brackets. Tighten the whole assembly.
42.Reinstall the panel, screws, and A/C heater knobs. You now have a gauge pack.
43.The night shot. The gauges actually glow a bit more red than shown here.


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