Engine Swap - Convert to a RA
Dec 25, 2006, 09:27 AM
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Engine Swap - Convert to a RA
Having recently completed an engine swap to convert my UK 1.6 Lancer to the 2.4 MIVEC motor, I thought I'd compile this rough guide just encase anyone blows their motor and wants to go this route.
What I must stress however, is that it is NOT worth doing this swap to a perfectly good ES or OZ Rally, you might as well just trade in for a RA. I did not have that choice as the 2.4 is not available in Europe or anywhere except the USA, Canada, Australia and a few other far-off locations from the UK!
1.6:
2.4:
So heres my thoughts and a rough guide.
Summary
The previous engine was a 4G18, 96Bhp 1.6L powerplant, using a return-type fuel system.
The RA engine is 4G69, 162Bhp 2.4L powerplant with MIVEC, using a returnless-type fuel system.
How difficult was it?
Contrary to popular fanboy belief - it is very easy to swap to the 4G69, as everything bolts up, fits, and no custom work is required. It does however take a lot of money and time.
It is VITAL you make sure you have all the correct parts. It is not as simple as changing the engine. You need the new axles, the new transaxle, new wiring harness, ECM, tubes, fuel pump, and much more.
What did we anticipate would work but didnt?
We anticipated that we could re-used the transmission - we couldnt - it was subtly different. Short story - you need the RA transmission, changing just the clutch housing wont work.
We thought then after getting the new transaxle that we could re-use the old axles - WRONG! The RA axles are thicker, and old thinner axles wont turn in the RA differential.
What did work suprisingly?
The wiring harness for the engine connected up really well for the most part. On my car there was one particular plug C-124, that needed a few changes, but this may not be the case on a USDM lancer.
The engine started up without any major problems.
What parts did we need?
4G69 engine (doesnt matter if it is from AT or MT, but if it is from an Auto like mine was youll need a flywheel and clutch. Also make sure it has everything left on it, like the starter etc)
4G69 transaxle
4G69 drive axles
4G69 ancillaries if not on engine (ps pump, ac compressor, alternator)
ECM
Engine Wiring Harness
Exhaust
Fuel Pump
How do you do it?
In very simple steps:
1). Drain your fluids
2). Disconnect all wiring and hoses
3). Remove as much as you can from the engine to aid hoisting, such as the exhaust manifold.
4). Remove the engine. For this there are two options, either unbolt the transmission/clutch housing from the block and then take out just the engine, or you can drop the whole lot down if you can raise the car on a lift.
5). Remove the engine wiring harness and ECM
6). Prepare the car for the new engine, such as installing the new engine wiring harness and ECM. We also changed the clutch master cylinder but this is not necessary.
7). We put the new engine in with the transmission attached. This is difficult from the top so its better to drop the car onto it. If you remove all the brackets from the engine and get the header off of it, it will go in from the top.
8). Put in the new axles, then fill your fluids.
10). Check everything over, but it should be ready to roll now.
What I must stress however, is that it is NOT worth doing this swap to a perfectly good ES or OZ Rally, you might as well just trade in for a RA. I did not have that choice as the 2.4 is not available in Europe or anywhere except the USA, Canada, Australia and a few other far-off locations from the UK!
1.6:
2.4:
So heres my thoughts and a rough guide.
Summary
The previous engine was a 4G18, 96Bhp 1.6L powerplant, using a return-type fuel system.
The RA engine is 4G69, 162Bhp 2.4L powerplant with MIVEC, using a returnless-type fuel system.
How difficult was it?
Contrary to popular fanboy belief - it is very easy to swap to the 4G69, as everything bolts up, fits, and no custom work is required. It does however take a lot of money and time.
It is VITAL you make sure you have all the correct parts. It is not as simple as changing the engine. You need the new axles, the new transaxle, new wiring harness, ECM, tubes, fuel pump, and much more.
What did we anticipate would work but didnt?
We anticipated that we could re-used the transmission - we couldnt - it was subtly different. Short story - you need the RA transmission, changing just the clutch housing wont work.
We thought then after getting the new transaxle that we could re-use the old axles - WRONG! The RA axles are thicker, and old thinner axles wont turn in the RA differential.
What did work suprisingly?
The wiring harness for the engine connected up really well for the most part. On my car there was one particular plug C-124, that needed a few changes, but this may not be the case on a USDM lancer.
The engine started up without any major problems.
What parts did we need?
4G69 engine (doesnt matter if it is from AT or MT, but if it is from an Auto like mine was youll need a flywheel and clutch. Also make sure it has everything left on it, like the starter etc)
4G69 transaxle
4G69 drive axles
4G69 ancillaries if not on engine (ps pump, ac compressor, alternator)
ECM
Engine Wiring Harness
Exhaust
Fuel Pump
How do you do it?
In very simple steps:
1). Drain your fluids
2). Disconnect all wiring and hoses
3). Remove as much as you can from the engine to aid hoisting, such as the exhaust manifold.
4). Remove the engine. For this there are two options, either unbolt the transmission/clutch housing from the block and then take out just the engine, or you can drop the whole lot down if you can raise the car on a lift.
5). Remove the engine wiring harness and ECM
6). Prepare the car for the new engine, such as installing the new engine wiring harness and ECM. We also changed the clutch master cylinder but this is not necessary.
7). We put the new engine in with the transmission attached. This is difficult from the top so its better to drop the car onto it. If you remove all the brackets from the engine and get the header off of it, it will go in from the top.
8). Put in the new axles, then fill your fluids.
10). Check everything over, but it should be ready to roll now.
Dec 27, 2006, 02:10 PM
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To be honest, to do this a second time would be very easy.
The difficulty is the lack of experience, otherwise the swap is technically straightforward.
What I'm trying to say here is that as long as people take my advice about what works and what doesnt, then the engine can be swapped with little hassle if required, perhaps if they blow their 2.0 and happen to find a cheap 4G69 with all the parts.
The difficulty is the lack of experience, otherwise the swap is technically straightforward.
What I'm trying to say here is that as long as people take my advice about what works and what doesnt, then the engine can be swapped with little hassle if required, perhaps if they blow their 2.0 and happen to find a cheap 4G69 with all the parts.
Dec 29, 2006, 01:42 PM
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awsome write up man. jus wondering though (cause i ws thinking of doing this when my motor goes) about howmuch did this cost, the motor and all the excesories. if u dont mind me asking
Dec 29, 2006, 02:01 PM
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I got mine for the equivalent of about $2000. However the engine is much more common in the USA.
The only way id recomened this as an upgrade to OZ and ES owners is if they can get the engine with all accessories, tranny, wiring harness, both axles, passenger side motor mount and ECM, plus the returnless fuel pump if its an 02-03 for a decent price from a wrecked car, and probably the ability to do it yourself with a mate who knows how to use tools, and doesnt mind getting on his back for you (that came out wrong!).
It isnt as difficult as people think, as long as you got all the parts. I mean we started this as complete amateurs... and although it took us 2 months (most of that waiting for parts) we found it pretty simple.
I used http://www.vw-auto-parts.com for any parts I was missing, as they can supply any oem part if you got the part number.
Finally - very important - when attempting to remove engines make sure you take it slow and have some friends to help. And take time to make sure the car is secure on jack stands when working under it. Heavy parts and a car falling on you can/will kill you.
Working on the lancer is quite a lot of fun, people dont appreciate just how nice and easy the car is to work with, and you can learn a lot, and feel good about what youve achieved. It would have been hugely expensive getting a garage to do this for me, and I would have missed out on what has been a highlight of my life so far.
If anyone has specific questions about the swap process just post them and ill answer.
The only way id recomened this as an upgrade to OZ and ES owners is if they can get the engine with all accessories, tranny, wiring harness, both axles, passenger side motor mount and ECM, plus the returnless fuel pump if its an 02-03 for a decent price from a wrecked car, and probably the ability to do it yourself with a mate who knows how to use tools, and doesnt mind getting on his back for you (that came out wrong!).
It isnt as difficult as people think, as long as you got all the parts. I mean we started this as complete amateurs... and although it took us 2 months (most of that waiting for parts) we found it pretty simple.
I used http://www.vw-auto-parts.com for any parts I was missing, as they can supply any oem part if you got the part number.
Finally - very important - when attempting to remove engines make sure you take it slow and have some friends to help. And take time to make sure the car is secure on jack stands when working under it. Heavy parts and a car falling on you can/will kill you.
Working on the lancer is quite a lot of fun, people dont appreciate just how nice and easy the car is to work with, and you can learn a lot, and feel good about what youve achieved. It would have been hugely expensive getting a garage to do this for me, and I would have missed out on what has been a highlight of my life so far.
If anyone has specific questions about the swap process just post them and ill answer.
Last edited by Diavlo; Dec 29, 2006 at 02:06 PM.
Dec 29, 2006, 02:15 PM
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The engine is fantastic, very responsive, very torquey... It feels as fast in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear to 60mph as the UK's Evolution VIII 260, which I have driven, and this is an NA engine. Only difference is 1st gear in my car is a little more "fun" what with the frantic attempt to get traction! We timed 5.9s and 6.0s to 60mph on our two 0-60 tests, compared to the official figure of 5.5s for the Evo 8-260, and down by a full second from the RA's official 0-60mph time.
I cant comment on the stock RA engine, as mine has every RRM part going and more, but I dont see how the RA can be looked down upon so much in the USA, when in the UK it is faster than the majority of our sports compacts (though the UK tends to go for diesels).
I also have a 2005 Mitsubishi Colt that uses the 1.6 4G62 or 4G61 MIVEC, and it feels the same as the 2.4, but nowhere near as fast, but was way faster than my 4G18 1.6 lancer.
I cant comment on the stock RA engine, as mine has every RRM part going and more, but I dont see how the RA can be looked down upon so much in the USA, when in the UK it is faster than the majority of our sports compacts (though the UK tends to go for diesels).
I also have a 2005 Mitsubishi Colt that uses the 1.6 4G62 or 4G61 MIVEC, and it feels the same as the 2.4, but nowhere near as fast, but was way faster than my 4G18 1.6 lancer.
Last edited by Diavlo; Dec 29, 2006 at 02:19 PM.
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Dec 29, 2006, 06:10 PM
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Good write up, it's sort of tough to explain the cars here, you would just have to visit to get it.
While in Italy I was really surprised at the cars there. I saw a total of maybe 2 or 3 SUVs. I saw zero pickups. ALL were tiny compacts, the RA is midsize in comparison.
In North America, you have the big SUVs and pickups all over the place. Engines over 3.0L are more common than engines under 2.0L.
Compared to all vehicles here, 2.4L is a small engine. It's a large 4 cylinder, but a small engine. 1.8L is tiny. Most larger family cars have V6s over 3L. Plus, 90% of cars here have automatics, which slows things down. I saw maybe 2 autos in Italy of all the cars I saw in 10 days there.
While in Italy I was really surprised at the cars there. I saw a total of maybe 2 or 3 SUVs. I saw zero pickups. ALL were tiny compacts, the RA is midsize in comparison.
In North America, you have the big SUVs and pickups all over the place. Engines over 3.0L are more common than engines under 2.0L.
Compared to all vehicles here, 2.4L is a small engine. It's a large 4 cylinder, but a small engine. 1.8L is tiny. Most larger family cars have V6s over 3L. Plus, 90% of cars here have automatics, which slows things down. I saw maybe 2 autos in Italy of all the cars I saw in 10 days there.
Last edited by captain150; Dec 29, 2006 at 06:12 PM.
Sep 23, 2008, 09:12 PM
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so, would the 4g94 lancer oz swap nice with the 4g69. and do you need to change the axles and transmitions, i heard that they kinda share the same tranny and axle right.
Aug 11, 2010, 05:55 AM
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Need additional information
Hello Diavlo,
I'm going to do the same swap as you from a CS1A lancer with a 4G13 engine.
I'm trying to check all the parts I need to do this.
I need your help have the details.
thanks in advance.
I'm going to do the same swap as you from a CS1A lancer with a 4G13 engine.
I'm trying to check all the parts I need to do this.
I need your help have the details.
thanks in advance.
