rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

one more thing that just popped into my mind is that my passenger-side spring is damaged. i noticed that the very last coil/ring at the bottom that connects to the strut broke off due to rust. i was devastated when i saw this...

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

I need like 8 feet of meth injection hose, and probably about 4 feet of vacuum line...do you need the money in advance? Also this weekend I'm leaving for Europe for about 3 weeks.



you're on stock springs? I still have mine, their yours...just come on over...

rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

wow europe! nice! have fun man! re: the items you need, no worries, i'll grab them for you and no need to give me the money in advance. can't wait to see your meth injection project!

we will schedule a date & time sometime when you come back from your eurotrip (lol i love that movie btw haha). have fun & take care my friend!

***

PS: we gotta setup a LAN party to play CS:GO!!!

rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

NOVEMBER 2015 UPDATE

So, more than a year has passed since my last post on Tramp's thread...

Good news is that I'm having a pretty good year this time around in regards to Tramp's progress!

Here are a bunch of things that I have been able to take care of in this year...

- Front & rear, rotors & brake pads. This was one of the most horrific things I have ever seen. I could not believe that my rotors and pads were that bad.
- Rear calipers (L/R). My calipers were destroyed as well due to a long overdue service. Brackets were literally bonded together and I could not even get them to loosen up. Had to be replaced.
- Front lower control arms (L/R). There is a REALLY BAD story (that I will cover soon) as to WHY I had to replace these and another REALLY BAD story during the replacement process.
- Front stabilizer bar links (L/R). Also had to be replaced as the links were welded together by rust and it became ONE piece. I had to torch and chisel them off. Bad bad bad experience yet again.
- Now running FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil. Finally...
- Removed most rust in engine bay & from underbody. Planning to use rust converter, paint with primer then apply rubberized coating for extra protection.
- Sun roof is now fully-functional. It was a pretty funny adventure trying to reset the motor to relearn the distance of the opening and closing points lol.
- HID lamps have been re-installed and I have adjusted the headlight height to be lower so they point downwards (low beam) as the HID kit that I got is single beam only.
- STILL WINGLESS!!! And I'm loving it, even though my girlfriend hates it lol...

That's all I can remember from the top of my head as I am currently at work. I still have a lot of things that are yet to be done but I am so happy with the progress

that I've reached so far.

Ongoing/future plans are...

- REBUILD MY TRANSMISSION!!!
- Replace front & rear springs. Hopefully I can grab the OEM springs that I was offered by EvoM Cranswick.
- Replace front & rear, struts. Parts from RockAuto.
- Replace front, inner & outer tie rods. Parts from RockAuto.
- Replace oil pan & gasket. Parts from EvoM doncarbone.
- Clean/replace valve cover & gasket. Parts from EvoM doncarbone.
- Clean/replace intake manifold & gasket. Parts from EvoM doncarbone.
- Adjust valve lash.
- Clean throttle body & MAF sensor...again.
- Clean exhaust manifold + EGR.
- Replace timing belt & water pump. Parts from RockAuto.
- Replace clutch. EXEDY. Parts from RockAuto.
- Coolant flush.
- Flush transmission oil and replace with OEM Mitsubishi manual transmission oil. Any suggestions/advice?
- Need to fix my A/C as it is still out-of-service...my girlfriend hates me for not having A/C lol...

I gotta leave my work now so I will continue this LOOOOOOONG post when I get home.

SO HAPPY TO BE BACK!!! MORE PHOTOS OF MY RALLIART TO COME!!! SO STAY TUNED!!!

Talk to you guys soon! Cheers!

nekkidlad

iTrader: (4)

yeah, the rear caliper slide pins on the RA like to rust seized...
it happened to me and I was able to get them to un seize and slathered the hell out of them with anti-seize after, and they were fine since then...


the a/c problem is likely a bad compressor(tho obviously you gotta have it looked into first)


I got mobil1 fluid when I flushed my trasn and I personally didn't feel a difference, but i've heard the bg synchroshift and the redline fluids improve the feel of driving and shifting, but I don't have experience with them...im sure there's lots of testimonials here on the forum about that
I bought bg fluid but never got around to putting it in because sold the car before fixing the trans(so I never put it in, and just returned it)...


unless you're getting some crazy good deal - like I was gonna when I bought my struts(and then I totally missed out on it) just put the oe kyb struts on it...
even blown out they feel better than moroe's(or cheaper alternatives)..
I got Monroe's when I did mine kuzz it was shocktober(buy one get one free)
but then I tossed the boxes before I got around to taking off the codes or whatever on em...
so they actually ended up costing me like $50 more more than the kyb's...grr
they rode a bit softer than the kyb's and felt a bit less responsive - even tho I had 3 shocks that were leaking when I bought it...(one of the rear ones was so bad, it sucked the shaft in on it's own instead of pushing it out...)


yeah if you live where roads get salted....the rear control arms seie up and get messed up...
I spent like 4 hrs replacing all 6 rear control arms...and since the swaybar links seized up and rusted had to replace those too...(replaced the links with the shocks...the arms were much later)
I suggest, make sure you get moog or some other tierods with lifetime warranty...you'll appreciate not having to buy them again if they go bad....however they will likely be a bit more expensive in the first place(and also better quality)


and good luck with all the other parts and projects...

rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

@nekkidlad:

Hey man! Haven't talked to you for a while. How's everything? Hope all is well with you brother!

You know what I regret through my journey with my RA? Not taking tons of photos through everything that I did. I wish I took photos of the before and after situations...

My whole rear brake assembly (rotors, pads, calipers, parking brake, etc.) was demolished. I literally have never seen any other brakes as bad as mine looked. It was horrible. Everything works flawlessly now after hours and hours of work. The only thing I noticed is that my passenger side rear caliper was already covered in rust maybe two days after installation while my driver side is still nice and shiny to this day. Weird or what...

I've been trying to get this figured out. I brought it to a shop once and they were recharging the gas in the system. It blew cold air while it was plugged into the recharging machine but we were not able to complete the process as I had to pick up my girlfriend from Oshawa lol. So close but yet so far...

I've also heard a lot of good things about BG Syncroshift. I think the guy used that oil in the how-to that I read up on a few years back. Forgot who it was. Garrett and I put in Royal Purple IIRC. Please correct me if I'm wrong but that's what we put in when we flushed my trans fluid.

That's the thing here. Struts are easy to find and always available but the problem is, NO ONE sells springs for my Ralliart. I've called so many places and they said they don't carry springs for my car. I just facepalm every time I hear that. Still trying to see if I should put on lowering springs (maybe Swifts like Nick?). Any advice on that?

Tramp's under-body is soooooo nasty and grimy lol. I've scrubbed and scraped and cleaned as much as I can but there's just so much dirt and rust down there. What can I do at home to eliminate the rust and prevent further rust from building up? I was thinking of rust converter then primer then rubberized coating all around. I just want Tramp to be in tip-top shape.

nekkidlad

iTrader: (4)

I don't know anymore...since I haven't had the RA for a few years now...
but there's only a handful of options for lowering springs on the RA...
and basically no OE equivalents...
I do know now there are a couple of coilover kits that are available
but if you're trying to get back to stock springs basically go online and find a seller of used stockers(or get some time and grab cran's springs like he offered), or go lower...and from what I've read/seen the lowering springs don't really go very low, more like a leveling with a minor drop...
again, there's tons of people on here with them over the years, they'll be able to tell u for sure...I never got around to lowering mine...wanted it fixed up first(like you)


compare that to my vw for example...
there's like a thousand choices of struts, coil springs and coilover kits....
and there's quite few air ride kits also available

as far as getting rid of rust...after it's started there's really no choice than scraping/grinding/cutting it off and do what you're proposing(paint/seal/converter/etc)


before it starts same thing, do what you propose, or just deal with it...
if it's just surface rust then it's not a huge deal, it just looks ugly..
when it start to bubble and flake then you have issues...that means the metal is actually breaking down and in panels for example...90% of the times that mean's it's not salvageable behind said bubbles or flaking(like the hood issue for example)


as far as your calipers one got rusty, the other did not...well...
don't know...it depends on how they coated them at the factory or rebuild center...
I know from the factory if they're NEW they put some kind of oil on them and it kinda soaks in(kinda like gun oil, where it soaks into the gun metal) to help prevent rust, after a while it wears off and they start to rust...(that's why if you look at new cars in the lot, their calipers look almost like they have a clear coat on them and are all shiny)
SOME rebuild centers use a similar process but from what i've seen it's not as durable, and some use nothing at all...depending how good they applied any kind of coating, or how heavy they put the coating on, depends how long it'll last on your conditions...


why one got rusty and the other didn't I don't know...got wet and sat there, and the other didn't possibly?...don't know...there's many reasons...but I can't say one for sure...

jcmaz

I ran into the spring issue yesterday when my one of my coilovers failed. OEM springs cost $200 CAD each new from the factory. From what I have read, lowering springs aren't worth it with stock struts since they weren't made for lowering and you'll blow your stock struts in a short period of time. However, lowering springs are much cheaper at $160USD a set. Factor in the labour and alignment, coilovers seem to be a better deal.

RE: Tranny fluid, I used Redline MT-85. The shifter felt a lot tighter/solid after the change. Then again, the car was overdue for transmission fluid.

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

I ran the Tein springs for a long time. Had them on OE struts and KYBs. Garret runs them as well. Nick ran the Swift springs for a long time too. In both cases, they dont lower the car as much as they do level out it out so its not riding with its nose up in the air.

SilentCool

If I were you I would just get lowering springs with the KYB GR2s. It might be cheaper and less of a hassle than trying to find OEM springs. Hell.... it freshens up the overall look of the Ralliart.

I'm subscribing to this thread and don't forget to take pics in the future.

rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

Alrighty then! It is now April 2016 and my last post was back in November 2015. I'm such a slacker I know...

BUT! and that's a big BUT! I've got updates galore! I'm at work right now and it's just gotten from BAD to WORSE up in here. I'll do a few update write-ups when I get a chance. Been working from home too and it's just killing me.

Take care and stay tuned!!!

rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

Tramp died on me today...
On my way to work, exiting the Gardiner westbound onto Lake Shore and he literally just turned off. No smoke, no hesitation, no jerks, nothing. Just died. I was so sad. Had him towed back to my house and he's just sitting there.
The engine still cranks, but doesn't start. I think it's something to do with fuel delivery. I gotta take a closer look when I get home.
I noticed a pretty audible ticking sound coming from the engine bay a few days ago and was planning on figuring it out this weekend but I guess Tramp couldn't wait any longer
I'll update you guys when I get a chance. He has 304k KM now and he's been a trooper through it all...

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

Pull off the upper timing belt cover and check your timing belt. Sounds like what happened to mine when the belt broke.

rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I was thinking of doing that this morning to check out the timing belt but I had to rush to work
What do you think is going to happen now? I hope valves aren't bent and nothing bad happened to my engine... #SadDay

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

Well if the belt did break youve more than likely got bent valves.

Pull the cover and check the belt. If it is still there do a compression test next.

If both of those come back fine then you can start diagnosing other things.

Has your check engine light came on?