2004 Lancer Sportback Ralliart AT Build
#1501
I can't really prove or verify anything and I don't have pictures as these were installed a few years ago. I'm definitely not backing RRM... don't care for them as a company.
I can say they are significantly more solid than stock, all gaps are filled, and there is a definite increase in vibration compared to stock. These were easily the best upgrade besides boosting my car, IMHO. I'd go DIY route though. Not too much that comes from RRM is as they say... guess they deceived us once again with their motor mounts...
I can say they are significantly more solid than stock, all gaps are filled, and there is a definite increase in vibration compared to stock. These were easily the best upgrade besides boosting my car, IMHO. I'd go DIY route though. Not too much that comes from RRM is as they say... guess they deceived us once again with their motor mounts...
Hey Blaire, I was just curious as to how you were able to determine that they were "completely filled. Very much solid", as in, maybe you cut one up like I did and saw that it was a solid piece of urethane with a sleeve in the middle, but didn't take any pictures. It just sounded like a pretty definite discrepancy in what I found and what you found.
Most importantly, I find that these forums over here on evom.net are much more careful to give accurate information, as compared to what I see over on FB, where everyone and their mother is an expert master mechanic, and throws their opinion out there. It's more like a circus where frequent exchanges of profanity and arguments occur.
Last edited by truthdweller; Apr 2, 2015 at 10:07 AM.
#1502
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Tore one up a bit. I originally bought the rrm mounts years ago from another member. They lasted a few years and were replaced again with new mounts from RRM (which I'm regretting now that I see yours...) when I installed my turbo and camshaft about 3 years ago.
Anyways, I remember investigating one of the broken mounts a bit. I don't recall it looking at all like the stock mounts (especially the innards). Again, it wasn't an all out investigation like what you did but I do recall "poking away" at it with interest. I also always forget to take pictures when I work
Its possible RRM put more effort into their products back in the day... who knows. Things can change over time and the quality of a product can go from great to complete garbage. Regardless, seeing your post I'd definitely go the DIY route.
A lot of us had a different image of RRM (positive, if you'd believe it) 3 years ago.
Anyways, I remember investigating one of the broken mounts a bit. I don't recall it looking at all like the stock mounts (especially the innards). Again, it wasn't an all out investigation like what you did but I do recall "poking away" at it with interest. I also always forget to take pictures when I work
Its possible RRM put more effort into their products back in the day... who knows. Things can change over time and the quality of a product can go from great to complete garbage. Regardless, seeing your post I'd definitely go the DIY route.
A lot of us had a different image of RRM (positive, if you'd believe it) 3 years ago.
Last edited by blaire; Apr 2, 2015 at 01:43 PM.
#1503
How's the turbo flash going with your car? What's new?
#1505
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The flash is going good actually. I plan on taking the car out of storage in about a month and still have a few hiccups to work out with the tune. I have an issue after cold starts that I have to look into as well. The RPMs drop and the car studders for a few seconds and then figures itself out.
The reflash is light years ahead of the piggyback. I seriously can't thank you enough for persisting with Mike and getting it figured out. I worked with him for near on 2 years and at times it was beyond frustrating with the little progress we were making
The reflash is light years ahead of the piggyback. I seriously can't thank you enough for persisting with Mike and getting it figured out. I worked with him for near on 2 years and at times it was beyond frustrating with the little progress we were making
#1506
So, tell us, what was involved in going from the piggy back to the reflash?
BTW, i don't know if you saw, but i recently leaned out both fuel maps, non-mivec and mivec, by about (30) points universally (except the first two columns, left them alone), then logged for knock and addressed those areas, and the results were CRAZY! I lost my wonderful fuel mileage 24/31mpg, which now when spirited driving, I get about 15mpg, lol! Don't know what hwy is cause I haven't taken any trips, but I really need to get to a dyno and see what this thing is putting down!
BTW, i don't know if you saw, but i recently leaned out both fuel maps, non-mivec and mivec, by about (30) points universally (except the first two columns, left them alone), then logged for knock and addressed those areas, and the results were CRAZY! I lost my wonderful fuel mileage 24/31mpg, which now when spirited driving, I get about 15mpg, lol! Don't know what hwy is cause I haven't taken any trips, but I really need to get to a dyno and see what this thing is putting down!
Last edited by truthdweller; Apr 2, 2015 at 10:30 PM.
#1507
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I've been watching your thread. Pretty much the only reason why I still log on the evom these days I'm not too concerned with my mileage though. I don't DD the lancer, I've got (and don't laugh ) a Toyota Prius C for my daily commuter.
Moving from the piggyback to the refresh was fairly straight forward. Basically I needed a 3bar map sensor, 4 larger injectors and I needed to replace the 90 degree bend in the intake plumbing that connects to the throttle body/intake manifold. The reason for the last part is due to the fact that the 5th injector for the RRM setup sits in the 90 degree piping at the throttle body.
Hackish provided a base tune (I believe it was a tune intended for about 6.5 PSI). I installed everything, fiddled with the base tune to sort out a few issues, and then slowly incremented the boost and tuned as required.
Moving from the piggyback to the refresh was fairly straight forward. Basically I needed a 3bar map sensor, 4 larger injectors and I needed to replace the 90 degree bend in the intake plumbing that connects to the throttle body/intake manifold. The reason for the last part is due to the fact that the 5th injector for the RRM setup sits in the 90 degree piping at the throttle body.
Hackish provided a base tune (I believe it was a tune intended for about 6.5 PSI). I installed everything, fiddled with the base tune to sort out a few issues, and then slowly incremented the boost and tuned as required.
#1509
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RRM kit uses the stock injectors and stock map sensor. Their kit consists of the plumbing, intercooler, manifold, down pipe, intake filter, oil feed, all the hardware/couplers/gaskets, turbo (which I believe is a knockoff 16g), recirc valve, and the piggyback.
The only reason I got their kit is because I found it used in Canada for $1900. I got it about the time Hackish was starting on Brent's car, and had full intentions to get rid of the piggyback/5th injector before I'd even installed the kit. The turbo had a damaged turbine so I've since replaced it. The exhaust manifold is also not the prettiest out there. I definitely envy the manifold you got from Mike.
The only reason I got their kit is because I found it used in Canada for $1900. I got it about the time Hackish was starting on Brent's car, and had full intentions to get rid of the piggyback/5th injector before I'd even installed the kit. The turbo had a damaged turbine so I've since replaced it. The exhaust manifold is also not the prettiest out there. I definitely envy the manifold you got from Mike.
#1510
IF i ever get a chance again, I'd try out RPW's stovepipe manifold for it solves the fitment issues associated with hackish's design, ie; starter and downpipe. Slim fans and the Garret GT28 turbo are the only specific modifications called for both the internal and external WG. This would be something I'd use to put together a kit to sell!
Last edited by truthdweller; Apr 2, 2015 at 10:28 PM.