truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

When I say it sticks at that RPM I mean with my foot to the floor, wide open throttle. It won't progress to the rev limit which is set at 7200 RPM manually shifting (6500 AT), unless I back off the throttle a hair and then it'll shift gears and progress back to 6000rpms, but not to redline.

No, it doesn't stick at 5500 in neutral, it'll reach the 7200 rev limit.

The other day, when I took a friend with me to show him the symptoms, I left it in Drive, went wide open throttle, and it hung up for a second at 5500, but pushed through and redlined that 6500 which, again, is the preset rev limit in Drive. It would NOT push through 5500 RPMs though from 2nd gear to 3rd gear WOT.

02modlanceroz

iTrader: (2)

Do you have any logs? I'd look at injector duty cycle % good chance you could be experiencing fuel cutoff

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Yes I do, but I don't know if I logged IDC...? I have Injector Pulse Width checked, but don't see IDC.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

The audio gets distorted with all the background noise. It pushes through and shifts from 1st to 2nd, but hangs up in 2nd to 3rd...

02modlanceroz

iTrader: (2)

Wow that thing is running really rich. Really looks like you have a boost leak. The AFRS were running pretty lean before you smashed the pedal down then it went pig rich. Start with a boost leak, then log your fuel trims.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

I think I need to have this thing retuned, after this valve job, Timing belt / BSB work that I had done! Fuel trims at idle and cruise?

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

Gary,

What injectors are you running? And why did your wideband go to --- instead of reading properly?

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

550cc RC injectors...

As O2modlanceroz said, "it went pig rich." All of this is what we're trying to figure out.

Unfortunately (fortunately), I'm having the timing belt rechecked as we speak, and a having it smoke checked for leaks. I'll find out tomorrow. Hold off on the questions until then, if you would.

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

I think the car needs to be taken to a tuner honestly. Someone who has an understanding both mechanically and of the tuning needs to lay hands on the car and help you get this thing dialed in properly. I would recommend you call up Paradise Racing. I dont think they are too far from you and they are quite good at what they do. If you'll go I'll even talk to the owner about the car and what all is going on for you. Ive spoken to him a few times through work he's a cool guy.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

I agree Josh and I just contacted a friend that works with a tuner as well. He's going to hook me up. Paradise Racing is about a three hour drive from me. Thanks though.

02modlanceroz

iTrader: (2)

Looking forward to see the results of the boost leak test

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

"Timing belt work was 100% and there are no boost leaks." There were two codes, a P0131 (bank1, sensor 1), and a P0335 (crank shaft position sensor) that popped up during the check, but were tested and found to be working. I had these two codes pop up in the past and were cleared. The car still has its symptoms. Back to the drawing board.

A dyno tune is being set up.

02modlanceroz

iTrader: (2)

When you throw an upstream o2 sensor code. It's either malfunctioning or you have a bad AFR. Now, it's only going to effect the AFRS in idle and cruise. Once you're in WOT, that shouldn't effect your AFRS at all. Having a crank sensor or cam sensor malfunctioning will effect your spark, which would also effect your AFR since it's not properly firing. Which in return could also trip an o2 code.

Now I'm not going to tell you to start buying sensors and replacing them. But I'd look more into the crank sensor to see why you're getting that code.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

I asked the kid that disassembled, why didn't you call me about the crank sensor before you reassembled? Now I can't replace it without paying again...???

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

TheCalling the owner tomorrow and telling him I want the crank sensor replaced.. smh.