2004 Lancer Sportback Ralliart AT Build
Feb 11, 2015, 07:24 PM
#1456
Racing has always motivated me since the beginning...I mean I thought racecars were one of every boy's dreams at one time or another growing up. For me, that dream of sitting low and going fast reemerged two years ago, so, even though I'll never be completely committed, that IS what drives me...literally. Isn't that the motivating force behind every automobile enthusiast? Oh, I forgot, maybe not everyone:
Feb 21, 2015, 08:57 PM
#1458
Garrett, educate me...
In this example, when I knock and timing drops, do I want to add timing back to those cells?
Sorry, Timing is "K", TPS is "L" and Wideband is "M":
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mjktz5i7o...FZPDBwaGa?dl=0
In this example, when I knock and timing drops, do I want to add timing back to those cells?
Sorry, Timing is "K", TPS is "L" and Wideband is "M":
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mjktz5i7o...FZPDBwaGa?dl=0
Last edited by truthdweller; Feb 21, 2015 at 09:02 PM.
Feb 22, 2015, 09:12 AM
#1459
Garrett, educate me...
In this example, when I knock and timing drops, do I want to add timing back to those cells?
Sorry, Timing is "K", TPS is "L" and Wideband is "M":
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mjktz5i7o...FZPDBwaGa?dl=0
In this example, when I knock and timing drops, do I want to add timing back to those cells?
Sorry, Timing is "K", TPS is "L" and Wideband is "M":
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mjktz5i7o...FZPDBwaGa?dl=0
you should be logging your AFR target as well as your wideband...what you want to do is either add fuel, or decrease ignition timing...ignition timing is in degrees before top dead center...what happens when ignition is advanced to far (ignition is too early) the mixture begins its burn too soon, and reaches it's peak power before, or too close to top dead center, resulting in a detonation, rather than the gases being able to expand by pushing the piston downward.
so in that area, what you want to do is see what the timing looks like, and if your AFR was close to its target...and make the necessary adjustments...what you don't want is dips or flat spots in your timing curve. AFR should be a curve as well...what's nice is hackish added a graphing function to the tables/maps that allows you to see all of the cell values in a graph...
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Feb 22, 2015 at 09:16 AM.
Feb 24, 2015, 03:01 PM
#1463
Evolving Member
Without getting too involved I would say that on your application that these would not fit without; wheels spacers (Too close to the calipers +25 offset), and modifying the fenders (they will stick out approx. 2"+ with wheel spacers).
Last edited by Resurrected RA; Feb 24, 2015 at 03:13 PM.
Mar 5, 2015, 05:53 AM
#1468
No, I did not touch the Teins...
I don't know if you recall, but when I tried to lower them back when I first purchased them, I ended up breaking the nylon strut bearing x 2. The Tein Basic is set up "as is" from the factory and they even state that they're not responsible for any damages if you don't follow their recommended settings. If you lower the lower spring seat, it doesn't put any tension (preload) on the spring. So, when you hit a bump, the car bounces on the springs, pinching the nylon bearing and breaking it. Bouncing like that also put crazy stress on the motor mounts as well, it's not a pretty sight, nor feeling!
Mar 5, 2015, 07:04 AM
#1469
No, I did not touch the Teins...
I don't know if you recall, but when I tried to lower them back when I first purchased them, I ended up breaking the nylon strut bearing x 2. The Tein Basic is set up "as is" from the factory and they even state that they're not responsible for any damages if you don't follow their recommended settings. If you lower the lower spring seat, it doesn't put any tension (preload) on the spring. So, when you hit a bump, the car bounces on the springs, pinching the nylon bearing and breaking it. Bouncing like that also puts crazy stress on the motor mounts as well, it's not a pretty sight, nor feeling!
Mar 5, 2015, 08:49 AM
#1470
What I haven't mentioned yet is fitment. I ended up with rubbing issues from the fender lip rubbing on the sidewall of the rear tires when hitting bumps and in turns. This lead to an interesting turn of events:
I could swear my bro-in-law had a rolling tool but apparently I was hallucinating, so, off to the local wheel shop...nope, they don't roll fenders. I text a mechanic friend of mine and he tells me that he "uses a bat and just beats them." Now, that just doesn't sound right. Next stop, Car Toys, who charge a fortune, but I'll try for giggles. They don't recommend rolling for it has a tendency to crack paint and distorts the fender. As expected, they want $100 per wheel to cut the protruding tab. At least I got a good laugh...NEXT! Oh, as I was heading out, I found this in their parking lot:
I then thought of the guys that painted my hood and did some welding for me. They work for whatever I feel they earn, and I like that. I find Jose out in the drizzle, having a cigarette in their muddy parking lot. He and I stand around discussing options and he agrees that he too will cut the fenders, for that sounds like a cleaner option. We also determine that the front are good to go and just the rears need attention...even better.
But then...
Jose comes up with what sounds like a brilliant D.I.Y., fender rolling solution! Here's how I ended rolling my rear fenders:
1. Place your car on a flat surface.
2 .I cut a 16" length handle off of my broken, wood shovel:
3. By inserting the rod down low, between the wheel and the fender, slide it up until it stops/ won't fit:
4. Roll the car forward and back (I was able to do this by myself by using the spokes of the wheel for leverage). By keeping the rod at the desired angle, the rod will pinch between the tire and fender, bending the tab up (increasing the angle of the rod will bend the tab further).
5. Repeat until desired results.
*Note - The paint will more than likely crack along that inside edge. Preheating the fender with a heat gun may help, but I didn't bother and experienced paint chipping all along the inside edge, but was able to keep it to that area and not out on the front surface of the fender. I'm sanding the chips out now and will cover with touch-up paint to prevent corrosion. It honestly came out pretty nice and DID NOT distort the fender well!
I could swear my bro-in-law had a rolling tool but apparently I was hallucinating, so, off to the local wheel shop...nope, they don't roll fenders. I text a mechanic friend of mine and he tells me that he "uses a bat and just beats them." Now, that just doesn't sound right. Next stop, Car Toys, who charge a fortune, but I'll try for giggles. They don't recommend rolling for it has a tendency to crack paint and distorts the fender. As expected, they want $100 per wheel to cut the protruding tab. At least I got a good laugh...NEXT! Oh, as I was heading out, I found this in their parking lot:
I then thought of the guys that painted my hood and did some welding for me. They work for whatever I feel they earn, and I like that. I find Jose out in the drizzle, having a cigarette in their muddy parking lot. He and I stand around discussing options and he agrees that he too will cut the fenders, for that sounds like a cleaner option. We also determine that the front are good to go and just the rears need attention...even better.
But then...
Jose comes up with what sounds like a brilliant D.I.Y., fender rolling solution! Here's how I ended rolling my rear fenders:
1. Place your car on a flat surface.
2 .I cut a 16" length handle off of my broken, wood shovel:
3. By inserting the rod down low, between the wheel and the fender, slide it up until it stops/ won't fit:
4. Roll the car forward and back (I was able to do this by myself by using the spokes of the wheel for leverage). By keeping the rod at the desired angle, the rod will pinch between the tire and fender, bending the tab up (increasing the angle of the rod will bend the tab further).
5. Repeat until desired results.
*Note - The paint will more than likely crack along that inside edge. Preheating the fender with a heat gun may help, but I didn't bother and experienced paint chipping all along the inside edge, but was able to keep it to that area and not out on the front surface of the fender. I'm sanding the chips out now and will cover with touch-up paint to prevent corrosion. It honestly came out pretty nice and DID NOT distort the fender well!
Last edited by truthdweller; Mar 5, 2015 at 08:52 AM.