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550cc injectors maxed out? As far as fuel pump goes, should I go ahead and change that for preventative maintenance, and which Walbro, 255?
Edit: Belay my last, I see yours now.
I meant hypothetically....your injectors should be fine...and unless you see evidence of a failing pump, I wouldn't bother with it, but it did come in handy having one waiting on the shelf
Time to replace the rear motor mount again, 'cept this time with a DIY suggestion from the very beginning by Cranswick...this one is a 60A (mild stiffness) Polymer filler from http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp…
Thank God for Silent Cool who donated a kit he purchased.
Last edited by truthdweller; Mar 26, 2015 at 11:30 PM.
Here's what I found with the RRM rear motor mount:
The voids in RRM's mount are smaller in comparison to the stock mount:
RRM Mount:
OEM mount (this is a front mount, but is the same center design as my rear mount):
These smaller voids allow a smaller amount of product (urethane, polymer) to penetrate through to the opposite surface, and a lesser amount of product overall. These smaller holes also create smaller "bridges" that connect to the other side, and really just creates a "floating" center of original rubber, and product that is physically connected to the motor mount, primarily, via the original rubber, and secondarily to where the product adheres to the edges of the mount. And no, the product does not adhere to the OEM rubber, it just sits on top of it, as I found out when I peeled it back by hand. As you can see in my photos (post #1489 & 1490), the urethane separated from the edges of the mount, and these narrow "bridges" fractured, and my reasoning is, the only surface where the urethane is fastened to the mount is the edges.
When the engine torques against the rear mount, and the center mass flexes, the weakest point is going to be stressed, which is where the urethane adheres to the metal edge of the motor mount. I noticed this separation about six months after installing the mount, but i have to wonder how soon this separation actually occurred. Once the product separates from it's attachment points (the metal edges) then you are left with the OEM attachment points, the urethane becomes less effective, and a BLOW OUT is imminent!
To remedy this problem, there has to be more metal surface area for the product to adhere to. So, i removed as much original rubber as i could from two of the voids (red arrows) before pouring the polymer into the mount:
Ultimately, I would think that you should remove all of the original rubber, or at least leaving a small branch connected to the center steel bushing to keep the bushing centered. The original rubber is pretty hardy, and I havent' found the correct tool to remove it, so be forewarned that it's not easy (last two photos were "shopped")!
Last edited by truthdweller; Mar 31, 2015 at 06:51 PM.
The RRM mount isn't solid? they just literally fill a stock mount? that RRM mount looks the same as the OEM mount I just put in my car...I can't believe they would sell that and call it "solid"...
The RRM mount isn't solid? they just literally fill a stock mount? that RRM mount looks the same as the OEM mount I just put in my car...I can't believe they would sell that and call it "solid"...
$189.00
"These mounts are a must for turbo motors or N/A guys who race. These mounts are complete replacements for front and rear stock mounts. They are urethane filled solid but not too stiff and will eliminate wheel hop when you launch and well as other problems related to severe engine movement. These mounts are solid filled mounts, therefore will vibrate more than stock. Now with Carbon Fiber reinforced filler!"
Cranswick: If you have an old rear roll stopper (what you guys are calling a rear motor mount) to give me we can make a stiff insert to press in (since the aftermarket doesn't). I have a slug of red polyurethane to cut up, a lathe, and a hydraulic press. If you have the old center metal bushing that would be helpful, but I can make one if required.
If successful we could order material then make them for the RA guys here. The filled OEM ones don't seem to be the solution.
I'm going to make an aluminum insert also, because I have the material lying around (yikes - rubber mouth guard not included).
Last edited by RalliartN; Apr 1, 2015 at 08:36 AM.
That is weird. The mounts I received from RRM were completely filled. Very much solid. I don't have any pictures to prove it though.
I'm sure all of the mounts that RRM sells are "completely filled" with urethane, in that there are no voids left empty. But they are not 100% urethane throughout, but rather an OEM mount with the voids filled with product. It is interesting though Blaire that yours "were completely filled. Very much solid" yet you have no pictures to verify this. How did you conclude that they were so?
Cranswick: If you have an old rear roll stopper (what you guys are calling a rear motor mount) to give me we can make a stiff insert to press in (since the aftermarket doesn't). I have a slug of red polyurethane to cut up, a lathe, and a hydraulic press. If you have the old center metal bushing that would be helpful, but I can make one if required.
If successful we could order material then make them for the RA guys here. The filled OEM ones don't seem to be the solution.
I'm going to make an aluminum insert also, because I have the material lying around (yikes - rubber mouth guard not included).
I'm sure all of the mounts that RRM sells are "completely filled" with urethane, in that there are no voids left empty. But they are not 100% urethane throughout, but rather an OEM mount with the voids filled with product. It is interesting though Blaire that yours "were completely filled. Very much solid" yet you have no pictures to verify this. How did you conclude that they were so?
I can't really prove or verify anything and I don't have pictures as these were installed a few years ago. I'm definitely not backing RRM... don't care for them as a company.
I can say they are significantly more solid than stock, all gaps are filled, and there is a definite increase in vibration compared to stock. These were easily the best upgrade besides boosting my car, IMHO. I'd go DIY route though. Not too much that comes from RRM is as they say... guess they deceived us once again with their motor mounts...
Mar 26, 2015, 11:16 PM
