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So with the teflon tape did you run grease around the tape or no grease at all?
I really like the progress bar. Mainly because of its design for the end links. The L shaped stock ones you use on the whiteline bar are fine. But the progress setup seems much sturdier.
So with the teflon tape did you run grease around the tape or no grease at all?
No grease at all...I wiped/cleaned all the grease off. Yeah, those end links are beefy compared to the stock ones.
Im signed up for an hour out on NJMP on May 11. Still concerned about further beating up my 17" wheels with the 40 profile tires. I still have my 16" with bald, yet sticky, "45" Kuhmo Ecsta"s, but don't know if I should run them. I've heard that even no/little tread that they still grip well when warmed up?
Last edited by truthdweller; Apr 21, 2016 at 07:58 PM.
Im signed up for an hour out on NJMP on May 11. Still concerned about further beating up my 17" wheels with the 40 profile tires. I still have my 16" with bald, yet sticky, "45" Kuhmo Ecsta"s, but don't know if I should run them. I've heard that even no/little tread that they still grip well when warmed up?
Just got word back from a TNIA instructor about this:
"Hey Gary! They look like they should be okay, you'll just have to watch wear especially on the shoulders and if you get any tire lockup. They should actually handle heat a little better since there's less tread to squirm, hot tires with lots of tread get really floaty."
Last edited by truthdweller; Apr 21, 2016 at 08:46 PM.
While installing my new front EBC slotted/dimpled rotors yesterday, I noted the front stabilizer bar end links were deteriorated and looking pretty bad. Today I got motivated to change them out, so I got my 14mm racheted, open-end wrench and socket, then went at it. After about the first turn, the end link EXPLODED and metal and rubber fell to the ground (see picture below)!
I ended up buying a polyurethane bushing set, then headed to Ace Hardware and bought (2) 3/8" X 6" grade #8, anodized bolts with lock nuts. I have to say that this was the EASIEST fix/modification that I've ever done on this car! Other than wiping out the dirt and cleaning with PB Blaster, all that was required was assembling the end link while dropping in the bolt, then putting on the lock nut and tightening it down! I did use the 1-1/4" collar that came with the original endlink to keep it simpler. I then spun the car around in the garage to get to the other side, took the wheel off and did the same thing to that end-link, which exploded as well, after the second turn this time:
Last edited by truthdweller; May 5, 2016 at 07:39 PM.
very nice!! This has happened to me several times. Wish i wouldve thouggt of that fix! Nice work gary.
But apparently I'm supposed to have the wheels weighted, ie; not jacked up, so there is no tension on the bar? Oops! Well, the end links were trash anyhow, so, I guess I did I good thing. The Pepboys speed shop rep, Frank, made the suggestion to make my own for he didn't have the right size Energy link. Although, through some deep thinking (dangerous), I realized that the bolt was going to have to be longer because Mitsubishi didn't utilize the washers between the bushings! Josh, was your OEM end links like that too?! Anyhow, by stacking all the bushings and washers together with the OEM metal collar, I concluded that the bolt needed to be 6", and grade #8, hardened steel was recommended over the grade #5 that Energy uses. Voila, $10 ea!
I know there's a thread somewhwre that covers this but, for future projects sake, what other suspension bushings should I address for the track, all of them, lol?!
Just got word back from a TNIA instructor about this:
"Hey Gary! They look like they should be okay, you'll just have to watch wear especially on the shoulders and if you get any tire lockup. They should actually handle heat a little better since there's less tread to squirm, hot tires with lots of tread get really floaty."
I got these inflated and balanced...gonna try them at NJMP on the 11th...on Facebook Live Feed too starting at 1500 (3pm)!
The whiteline roll centering kit (tie rod ends) should be a good suspension upgrade. Ive blown out a few sets of the stock ones with "spirited" driving and AutoX events.
Then I'd look into urethane filling the bushings on the rear swing arms (?). Im not sure if thats the proper name for them. Its the arm that runs from under the rear doors back to the rear hubs. Those bushings wear out and cause the rear end to sag a bit more than it should.
Other things I wanted to look into but never got around to were the ball joints, and front control arm bushings.
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And yea my sway bar links broke just like yours. Several times... LOL
When on my back under the front of the car, I've noticed for some time, a drop off oil on one of the Allen bolts to my oil return fitting flange (the other bolt is dry). I've assumed it to be the flange gasket which I finally replaced the other day.
Well, upon reinspection, oil is still wetting that same bolt. Oil is also wetting the side of the turbo above that bolt, where the Compressor cover butts up against the turbine housing. Initially, I figured the oil leak from the gasket was blowing up, and against, the turbine housing. But now, I'm wondering if a seal is going bad inside the bearing housing, causing an oil leak to originate from there, dripping down the side of the turbine housing, onto the oil return flange bolt...??? This fits what I'm seeing more accurately.
Last edited by truthdweller; May 10, 2016 at 09:28 PM.
When on my back under the front of the car, I've noticed for some time, a drop off oil on one of the Allen bolts to my oil return fitting flange (the other bolt is dry). I've assumed it to be the flange gasket which I finally replaced the other day.
Well, upon reinspection, oil is still wetting that same bolt. Oil is also wetting the side of the turbo above that bolt, where the Compressor cover butts up against the turbine housing. Initially, I figured the oil leak from the gasket was blowing up, and against, the turbine housing. But now, I'm wondering if a seal is going bad inside the bearing housing, ca using oIL to leat from there, dripping down the side of the turbine housing, onto the oil return flange bolt...???
i'm having a hard time visualizing it, can you post a picture? It's possible you pushed oil past the seal on the compressor side...pushing oil can be caused by a restricted oil scavenge, or feeding it too much oil or both. Have you noticed any significant oil loss when you check your oil? As I recall there's not much mileage on your turbo. check the inside of your charge pipe, specifically the first run from the compressor to the intercooler, if there is excess oil, you may have a blown seal. which is bad cause it will consume oil, and also could starve the bearing if it's bad enough.
i'm having a hard time visualizing it, can you post a picture? It's possible you pushed oil past the seal on the compressor side...pushing oil can be caused by a restricted oil scavenge, or feeding it too much oil or both. Have you noticed any significant oil loss when you check your oil? As I recall there's not much mileage on your turbo. check the inside of your charge pipe, specifically the first run from the compressor to the intercooler, if there is excess oil, you may have a blown seal. which is bad cause it will consume oil, and also could starve the bearing if it's bad enough.
I have to remove the LICP to gain access to the oil return, and although not looking for oil, didn't notice any gross oil in the ends. I'll post a picture tomorrow, and will check the LICP for oil and let you know.
I have to remove the LICP to gain access to the oil return, and although not looking for oil, didn't notice any gross oil in the ends. I'll post a picture tomorrow, and will check the LICP for oil and let you know.
I had bad seals in my turbo. The inside of the LICP was coated in oil. if this is the case the rebuild is not too difficult. I can send you a video how-to.
Does the leak appear to be coming from the oil drain line, or from somewhere else on the turbo?
i'm having a hard time visualizing it, can you post a picture? It's possible you pushed oil past the seal on the compressor side...pushing oil can be caused by a restricted oil scavenge, or feeding it too much oil or both. Have you noticed any significant oil loss when you check your oil? As I recall there's not much mileage on your turbo. check the inside of your charge pipe, specifically the first run from the compressor to the intercooler, if there is excess oil, you may have a blown seal. which is bad cause it will consume oil, and also could starve the bearing if it's bad enough.
Apr 21, 2016, 05:27 AM
