Bakuro's Turbo Build
Sep 29, 2014, 11:46 AM
#61
Well this is on the Green car not the white one. It's bumper support hasnt been modified at all. However The way its designed, after looking at it more closely. I dont think there would be any problem with just removing the center piece. Each side is pretty sturdy and is fuse welded right behind where the crash bar bolts on. Also the green bumper doesnt even connect to the support anymore if I remember correctly. I think i found it sheet metal screwed into the radiator support and the fenders. LOL
Sep 29, 2014, 12:15 PM
#62
Well this is on the Green car not the white one. It's bumper support hasnt been modified at all. However The way its designed, after looking at it more closely. I dont think there would be any problem with just removing the center piece. Each side is pretty sturdy and is fuse welded right behind where the crash bar bolts on. Also the green bumper doesnt even connect to the support anymore if I remember correctly. I think i found it sheet metal screwed into the radiator support and the fenders. LOL
i suppose it doesn't matter how it got fixed too much as long as it's properly functional
Dec 12, 2014, 05:34 AM
#65
So as stated in the thread about my other RA. This green RA is being dismantled and becoming the donor to the white RA's rebuild. Ive spent the last couple of nights out there cleaning up the garage and getting started on the disassembly. Ive unhooked the entire wiring harness and have it laying out over the driver side fender. Disconnected all the hoses that attach the motor to the car. I started to undo the shifter cables but they seem to be seized. I removed the pins, and the circle clip things. But it feels like something is rusted together or holding on very tightly. Any ideas on what I could do to pull this thing loose?
Going to remove the hood, and sort out the shifter cables. Then free the axles from the hubs. Anyone know what size socket I'll need for that? Once those are free im Pulling the engine and transmission together and removing the green car from the garage to free up some workspace. From there it will be all engine work to rebuild the head, make sure the block is in good shape, do my balance shaft delete, replace gaskets, pulleys, and belts. I'll work on the transmission as well making sure it looks decent and swap in an LSD. Finally I'll assemble it, clean it well, and probably paint the whole thing before starting to pull everything from the white car.
Im hoping that everything goes well and I can have the engine out of the car sometime next week.
So to anyone who might know:
What should I try to do to free up these shifter cables?
What size socket will I need to remove the axles?
Will I need to remove the axles from the transmission before I pull it, or can they stay in place during the pull?
Thanks guys!
Going to remove the hood, and sort out the shifter cables. Then free the axles from the hubs. Anyone know what size socket I'll need for that? Once those are free im Pulling the engine and transmission together and removing the green car from the garage to free up some workspace. From there it will be all engine work to rebuild the head, make sure the block is in good shape, do my balance shaft delete, replace gaskets, pulleys, and belts. I'll work on the transmission as well making sure it looks decent and swap in an LSD. Finally I'll assemble it, clean it well, and probably paint the whole thing before starting to pull everything from the white car.
Im hoping that everything goes well and I can have the engine out of the car sometime next week.
So to anyone who might know:
What should I try to do to free up these shifter cables?
What size socket will I need to remove the axles?
Will I need to remove the axles from the transmission before I pull it, or can they stay in place during the pull?
Thanks guys!
Dec 12, 2014, 09:25 AM
#66
#1... for the cables try a prybar?...
or if you're not reusing them i'd suggest one of those small handheld soldering torches to heat them up and free them up(just remember to let them cool down before handling them..
#2... im not 100% on the size but it's likely a 32mm, 34mm or 36mm...that's USSUALLY what axle nuts are...ussually parts stores w/ rental programs have a axle socket set and it'll be in there(whichever one you need)
#3... i never pulled the engine and/or trans but it's probably easiest to remove the axles then pull them out...
unless you're removing the whiole buframs attached to it...then TECHNICALLY you can even leave the wheels, hubs, struts, etc attached and pull it all together as one assy...probaly even w/ the radiator and a/c condenser too(if still in the bay)...
if it was me tho i'd pull the axles off tho... and pull it in pieces not as an assy, just kuzz it'd be more manageable
or if you're not reusing them i'd suggest one of those small handheld soldering torches to heat them up and free them up(just remember to let them cool down before handling them..
#2... im not 100% on the size but it's likely a 32mm, 34mm or 36mm...that's USSUALLY what axle nuts are...ussually parts stores w/ rental programs have a axle socket set and it'll be in there(whichever one you need)
#3... i never pulled the engine and/or trans but it's probably easiest to remove the axles then pull them out...
unless you're removing the whiole buframs attached to it...then TECHNICALLY you can even leave the wheels, hubs, struts, etc attached and pull it all together as one assy...probaly even w/ the radiator and a/c condenser too(if still in the bay)...
if it was me tho i'd pull the axles off tho... and pull it in pieces not as an assy, just kuzz it'd be more manageable
Dec 13, 2014, 12:15 AM
#67
1-1/4" is what I use...according to google 31.75mm is the equivalent, so probably 32mm as nekkid mentioned.
yes, drain fluid and pull the axles...you need to pull the trannyawaty from then engine, so you'll need to pull the axlkes to make that evebn possible...
drunk and topo lazy to fix....sorry...I fixed the first part of my treply, but the rest is too much...
Crans 
Dec 15, 2014, 05:07 AM
#70
and the rubber was already torn when we pulled the clip off in the frist place...
i never noticed any play or excessive movement....but i sure felt the lack of slop after installing them
Dec 15, 2014, 07:26 AM
#71
Thanks for the tips guys!!!
I was down south this weekend, but I had my brother come by and keep PB blasting the assembly since it already has the brass bushings. Got home last night and blasted it again, tried prying it, pulling it, hitting it with a hammer. Then I got the bright idea to sit in the car and work the shifter thru the gears. At first it was extremely rough. After a while I got out relubed it, let it soak, then got back in to run the gears again. it was much smoother this time. After a few passes I got out and slid them right off with my hand! I couldnt get the cables out of the rusty bracket so I just removed the bracket from the tranny for now and will deal with it later when I have more room.
Also got the hood off and double checked that nothing else was attached. Tonight Im picking up a 32mm socket from autozone and trying to break those babies loose. If all goes well I'll have the engine out of the car this week.
Yessir! Should be fun. Just going to go ahead an get a Evo CMC instead of reusing the RA one because Ive heard its better when you have the car boosted.
I was down south this weekend, but I had my brother come by and keep PB blasting the assembly since it already has the brass bushings. Got home last night and blasted it again, tried prying it, pulling it, hitting it with a hammer. Then I got the bright idea to sit in the car and work the shifter thru the gears. At first it was extremely rough. After a while I got out relubed it, let it soak, then got back in to run the gears again. it was much smoother this time. After a few passes I got out and slid them right off with my hand! I couldnt get the cables out of the rusty bracket so I just removed the bracket from the tranny for now and will deal with it later when I have more room.
Also got the hood off and double checked that nothing else was attached. Tonight Im picking up a 32mm socket from autozone and trying to break those babies loose. If all goes well I'll have the engine out of the car this week.
Yessir! Should be fun. Just going to go ahead an get a Evo CMC instead of reusing the RA one because Ive heard its better when you have the car boosted.
Dec 15, 2014, 06:33 PM
#72
Evolving Member
Yessir! Should be fun. Just going to go ahead an get a Evo CMC instead of reusing the RA one because Ive heard its better when you have the car boosted.[/QUOTE]
evo cmc?
evo cmc?
Dec 16, 2014, 07:31 AM
#75
Crans have you seen these Hydraulic Release Bearings before? I wonder if they would work on our transmission? Not that I think I'll need one but I saw them recently and the concept of ditching the slave cylinder and the fork is pretty cool.
