MitsuJoe

iTrader: (133)

RESULTS:

I first want to thank everyone for the wait involved in this process. I will assure you it was worth the trouble. The test was done at Backwoods Racing in Midland, MI. They feature a Mustang Dynometer with inertia rollers. Their Dyno is 2 months old and the customer service was excellent although the Dyno as explained by the shop was not setup for a tuner car and their software was more suited for AFR and certain speed tuning. I had a total of 12 runs in, 8 were HP pulls and 4 were ¼ mile pulls. Their software has the luxury of performing a ¼ mile on the dyno, which is very cool although I feel the results are a bit high, although the difference shown below is what is important. The Mustang Dyno showed very low HP for this car, which is unlike the Dynojet’s that I have seen almost everyone else post. What is important though is the differences between the stock and the under-driven/lightened pulley.

The test conditions here in Michigan were horrible to any real high HP pulls. If none of you know how humid, and hot things are then take my word for it. I am not using this as an excuse although if the conditions were better like less humidity, higher barometric pressure and lower temperatures then results would have been better. Furthermore the dyno had a fan that was very poor and probably put out as much pressure as a standard box fan. Conditions were as follows:

Temperature: 90 F
Barometric Pressure: 29.05 milli-bar
Humidity: 85-90%

The HP (horsepower) pulls were started by shifting through the gears and getting to 4th gear on the dyno and then going from 60mph to 95/100mph. So the charts you will see only show from around 3500rpm to redline around 6500rpm in 4th gear. Under the hood you could feel the intake piping and everything else heat up quite a bit. A couple of runs I iced the intake and it made no real difference. It was not until the last 4-5 runs that I am actually showing the data on which you will see the differences. I first ran the stock pulley and the power was similar between all runs with the stock pulley. After then I got this bright idea to reset the ECU, put the better pulley on and then try again. The ECU was unable to compensate the difference and then pulled timing, which lost power. I could feel this happening on the dyno and knew there was a problem. The shop recommended I try the stock pulley again and at this point I was able to get the same results again as I got in the very first test. At this point I pulled a quarter-mile run on the dyno for later comparison. Then right on the dyno I switched back to the better pulley. On first run you could tell the dyno was a bit quicker and with the lighter pulley and improvements were made. The last runs showed improvement of around 6-7whp and around 9ft/lbs of torque . Sweet we have been waiting for this!

This is very, very good. On a Mustang Dyno that simulates real world horsepower this shows very useable power. On any other dyno you should show gains somewhere around 10whp. The quarter mile times also dropped too. With the stock pulley I ran a 15.890. With the better pulley I ran a 15.730. These times as explained earlier were on the dyno. What an interesting way to go 90mph standing still! This is good for a tenth+ off the quarter. Very cool!

The Dyno Results

FAQ:

What is it?
A lightweight crank pulley that is under-driven to release more power in unsprung weight from the engine. It results in an under-drive of around 25%, which frees up power.

What does it fit?
It will fit 2004-2006 US Ralliarts with the 2.4 MIVEC engine. It will work on auto or manual transmission vehicles.

What are they made from?
The pullies are produced from high quaility T6061 spun aluminium. It has a very good tensile stength, will not rust, warp, and will always look great.

What is the weight differences?
The better pulley is .58lbs and the 3.911lbs. This is nearly 85% lighter. This was done on a calibrated grams scale used at the Backwoods Racing engine shop.

Is it safe?
Yes, the RA has a stock harmonic pulley, which acts as a dampener against vibration on the crank. The stock crank is semi balanced although the balance shafts in the RA engine do the best job of dampening true vibration on the whole engine. The stock pulley is meant to smooth idle out and keep vibrations inside the cab happy. On a stock car or not after a few thousand miles your RA develops worse vibrations/rattles then you would ever be able to feel with this pulley.

What are the long-term effects?
There are several cars of various different makes that have run lighter/under-driven pulleys for years without any problems with the engine, transmission, etc. In my short term testing on the RA I have seen no adverse effects, no check engine lights and I have more than made sure I was hard on the car to bring out any effects there could be. I feel 100% safe selling this pulley to any RA owner.

How does this pulley affect my AC, Alternator, PS, etc?
I noticed no difference in any of the vehicle belt systems with this pulley installed. The charging system/alternator was tested with no change in power output. The AC blows just as cold and the car turns just the same. I tried with every accessory on and felt nothing different from the stock pulley. This pulley makes the effects of the AC being on non-existent.

Where will I feel power?
On a stock car or modified RA you will feel gains. This pulley improves low-end torque and also makes the accelerator pedal easier to apply it makes the engine rev quicker to redline.

How will such a pulley affect my awesome sound system?
I had AutoZone hook-up a charging system tester and it showed readings the same as stock. There was no loss in AMPS /VOLTS. This car has the stock battery and no other power related modifications. You can keep banging and rolling with this pulley!

Will this affect your warranty?
As with any modification there is always a possibility that there could be unseen effects where problems could be caused. It is up to you to do the bait and switch method when going in for service although I doubt this would really matter. These pulleys are balanced and should cause no engine damage or warranty concerns when at service. As always any damages resulting from modifications are the responsibility of the owner of the car and I will reserve no rights to any liability from damage this pulley could cause on your vehicle.

How long does it take to install?
If you do this yourself you will want to set aside around one hour of time. At a shop this should take about an hour of time for them to do. Do not let them over charge you. It does not require any special or complicated tools.

Do I need a harmonic dampener?
The main purpose of a harmonic dampener is to reduce vibration inside the cab and to make the engine run smoother. I felt no difference in this with the better pulley although it is a question that was asked so I wanted to answer it.

What about this pulley and the RIPP SC Kit?
A supercharger is belt driven. Changing the stock pulley to a lighter/under-driven pulley will directly affect the rotation of the belt and will require a different calibration of the pulley used in the RIPP SC system. The two parts can work together although you will need probably a smaller pulley on the SC to produce more boost as now with the under-driven pulley now turns everything less. You will need to confirm this with RIPP.

Will this affect timing?
Timing is calculated from many different factors of engine RPM and multiple sensors. This is a mechanical belt driven pulley, which does not require changing timing and will not affect your timing in any way. Your timing belt and your serpentine belt are two different belts.



Instructions:

Tools Needed:
½” Drive Ratchet wrench with 3” extension
3/8” Drive Ratchet wrench
3/8” Drive 12mm long extension
3/8” Drive 10mm long extension needed to remove splashguards
Allen wrench of medium size to hold pensioner
Jack and Jack stand to hold up car
4 way to remove lug nuts
Various screw drivers Phillips & straight to remove plastic splashguards
Your new Pulley
Your new Belt
About One Hour of Time

Directions:
1. Park your car in a level safe work area, let your car cool for a little while if needed.
2. Loosen the lug nuts a few turns on your passenger right front wheel
3. Jack the car up and support it securely on a jack stand
4. Remove the wheel from the car
5. Remove the splash guards behind the strut and under the oil filter. This step is difficult, not technically although will take some patience.
6. At this pint you will pop the hood if you have not done so already. You will now want to observe the belt routing. Take notes if you need to.
7. Next step is too loosen although do not remove the 4 bolts on the stock pulley
8. You will now want to observe the tensioner. You will see the part on the tensioner where the 1/2" drive goes. At the bottom left corner of the tensioner you will see a small round hole where the Allen wrench goes into. You do not want the wrench any farter than 1/2" into this hole.
9. Next you want to take the 1/2" drive and pull it towards the front of the car which will take the tensioner towards the rear of the car. This will begin to remove tension from the belt.
10. At the point which you cannot pull the tensioner any more you will now see that your Allen wrench can be pushed through to hold the tensioner back. This step can be done with one person although it is difficult to hold the tensioner back and then push the Allen wrench through.
11. You can now let go of the wrench and the belt tension should be free and the tensioner should be held in place.
12. You will now remove the belt from the car taking careful note of how it is routed.
13. Next you will remove the 4 bolts from the stock pulley and remove the pulley from the car.
14. Next you will put the better pulley on making sure to line of the notch on the crank to the proper hole on the pulley. This is easy to do and there is only one way to do
15. Next you will put the 4 bolts on and tighten them down so the pulley is no longer loose.
16. Now you will prepare your belt by removing the folds and trying to straighten it out like the old belt
17. You will now put the belt on the car, make sure it is set in all the pullies correctly
18. You will now remove the Allen wrench on the tensioner by turning the tensioner towards the rear of the car by using the 1/2" ratchet.
19. Now that you have belt tension tighten the 4 crank bolts down as hard as you can. I do not have torque specs for these.
20. After this do a final check of the belt and the pulley to make sure everything is tight and the area is free of tools and anything that would hurt a test start.
21. Test it by starting the car and observe the belt and pulley to make sure everything is tight and spinning correctly.
22. After testing you will now be ok to put the splash shields back on, put the wheel back on, hand tighten the lug nuts, raise the jack, remove the jack stand, lower the jack, then double check the lug nuts to make sure they are tight.
23. Go drive your car, be impressed with the results and tell your Ralliart friends to buy one.

PICTURES:

MitsuJoe

iTrader: (133)

UPDATE:
The website is online and I am ready for payment. Please check out:
http://www.mievo.net/rapulley

First batch is SOLD OUT!

Already Paid & Shipped:

1. YellowRalli PAID
2. RDC PAID
3. SilvRA PAID
4. RVS1111 PAID
5. RalliartCA PAID
6. LARalliart PAID
7. reTro PAID
8. bigdoggy_dog PAID
9. 403RA PAID
10. speedygarcia PAID
11. rocketman PAID
12. AlkalineTrio124 PAID
13. PocoRA PAID
14. Mojambo PAID
15. sobe PAID
16. turck26 PAID
17. EvoLite PAID
18. AdamRA PAID
19. MNRALLIART PAID
20. Reimundo PAID
21. lucas569 PAID
22. blk-majik PAID
23. Myszkewicz PAID
24. Joe's_EVO8 Of course I paid
25. Otter PAID
26. PR_Mivec or LatinRA PAID
27. Alvin Ayala PAID
28. K_R PAID
29. Red Dragon PAID
30. coolmivec PAID
31. Ralliart_on_LSD PAID
32. amg_dragon PAID
33. wiggle1r PAID
34. Speeddemon PAID
35. redralli PAID
36. DallasN20 PAID
37. langdon_82 PAID
38. Daddymac PAID
39. quikkstylez PAID
40. SLVRalliart PAID
41. Rydog PAID
42. Ride_59 PAID
43. ProjectR#69 PAID
44. Vance S. PAID
45. cleanertones PAID
46. lucky04 PAID
47. boozeup&riot PAID
48. Jmano PAID
49. ralliarv PAID
50. Starlite_Demon PAID
51. Dade County PAID
52. Zyrian Lee PAID
53. ThyPunko_PR PAID
54. waxwozax PAID
55. Rallilanc PAID
56. Rock PAID
57. Rubez4o1k PAID
58. Frozenrock PAID
59. PR_Mivec PAID #2
60. o2thag PAID
61. mattville PAID
62. ralliartracer PAID
63. Workz PAID
64. Rydog RMA/Resend
65. bruce988jl PAID
66. Bart C. PAID
67. justinhazard PAID
68. jerseyjap PAID
69. vonzipper PAID
70. sp0rk PAID
71. Lancer Gris Tur PAID
72. RALLIART2U PAID
73. Arithmetic PAID
74. pabboost PAID
75. PR_Mivec PAID #3
76. Ride_59 PAID


Purchase list:

1. rickyMivec
2. tuffguy
3. Blkralliart04
4. ski10804life
5. ErikT
6. RottyM
7. RAKenzo
8. Azure
9. Lightfighter
10. DiamondWhite
11. KevinO
12. Canadian Canuck
13. Fifty
14. MItsubishi Guy
15. evilralliart
16. bumpinralliart
17. loctfrank
18. GearDownSon
19. KeriCR
20. Joe Cool
21. ralliart86
22. Dre 8472
23. jackass
22. silversleeper
23. Mitsubeastin
24. psychlancer
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.


This is an ongoing list. If you have paid and your not noted please PM with your forum name and e-mail address. The same goes if you have mailed a payment. Thanks!

I will have a video of the install and pictures for 56k on my site. No worry there.


I soon will be starting a website with online Paypal ordering. If you want to pay adifferent way that can be worked out. I should have the pullies ordered this week and I will give the machine shop one week to produce. I will not accept any orders until I know the pullies are being made. This gives me around a week to work on the site.

COST:
Pricing will be $95USD and $120CDN. This gives an average gain of 1HP per $14 spent. This is an awesome deal. Show me where you can get better! Anyways Paypal should do all the conversion so I can really only base it from the USD price. Plus you also get to complete a preventive maintainence item because a belt will be included. Pricing includes shiping to the US and Canada. I am trying to give Canadian's a break here as I will customs declare $20 on the package also. I cannot do for $100CDN although this is pretty good!

More details coming soon. Ask any questions I haven't covered. Thanks everyone.

tuffguy

Hey Joe. The gains look really good, thank you for doing this for us!

Even though the overall dyno numbers might look a little low (probably due to the 500hp calibrated Mustang dyno), 7whp and 9lb-ft is pretty significant, especially when you think of the gains in terms of percentages!

EDIT: A smaller recropped version of your dyno sheet if you need it

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otter

iTrader: (14)

Now that Joe's made his announcement, I can share my story

I had the luxury of meeting up with Joe this past weekend and purchasing one of the prototype pulleys and being the first person not named Joe to try this part out. Yesterday I bought a belt and installed the pulley. It took me approximately 30 minutes. The entire process is very easy and the only reason it took me that long is the damn splash guard was giving me crap when I was trying to put it back in. Once the wheel and splash guard was off, the actually time it took me to remove the old belt/pulley and install the new ones was less than 10 minutes.

Fitament is perfect and the new belt (the size he's selling with the pulley) fit just fine. Just for kicks, I weighed the old and new pulleys on my ultra-accurate kitchen food scale. Old pulley weighed 4 lbs, new one was only 3/4 of a lb. That's a HUGE difference. Finally, I took the car out for a spin, nothing major, just around the block. First thing I noticed is that the engine spun up more quickly. Second thing I noticed was that I gained back some of the low end torque that I had lost when I installed my downpipe. That is good. Then I let the car idle and cranked up my stereo (1000w system). The headlights dimmed just a touch, but the low voltage sensor in my radar detector (sets off alarm if voltage goes below 12v) never went off, so I was getting enough power.

Today I was able to take it out to the freeway and really play with it and see what my gains were. Besides the low end torque, I also felt gains in the high-RPM range (more passing power makes me happy). The added throttle response of an engine that can rev faster makes heel and toeing even easier.

Air conditioning was just as cold as it was before. Amp was putting out plenty of juice. Power steering felt normal. I felt no extra vibration coming from the engine compartment.

For $14/horse this is a great deal. Especially since these are being sold at about 1/2 the price of what a retailer would sell them for. Definitely worth the money

A note about the install - when releasing the tension on the belt, I used my 18" breaker bar and found that it was quite easy to hold the tensioner back and keep the other hand free to push in the allen wrench. So if you have a breaker bar, use it, it'll make things a bit easier.

RalliartCA

iTrader: (3)

dude that is so badass. I am waiting for the Ripp m/t SC so as soon as I get confirmation from RIPP as to how this will affect the SC setup I am in.

RottyM

Add me to the list...

MNRALLIART

iTrader: (2)

Hey Joe,
Is this lighter crank pulley works on the auto RA? If it works on the auto RA, I will buy one.

BLKRalliArt04

iTrader: (18)

Yes it will work on an auto ra. The engine is still the exact same.

GreenPsycho

iTrader: (13)

Just a heads up on the supercharger: if you plan on getting RIPP's kit in the future, you will have to remove this pulley. Just the nature of the game. Ripp's kits come calibrated with the right diameter shaft and crank pulley (if necessary such as in stg2) for the desired boost (stg 1 and stg2). this would definately throw off things.

In fact, I believe the Lancer stg2 setup uses an overdrive crank pulley to get the 11psi of boost, not underdrive. Just keep that in mind.

But its great to see someone step up and offer this cool mod. Congrats man

MitsuJoe

iTrader: (133)

I guess maybe RIPP could contact me about making these work together. Or vice versa.





Yes it will work on the auto.

PR_Mivec

iTrader: (7)

JOE U R THE MAN!!!




now check your pm's

PR_Mivec

iTrader: (7)

thx!

WoRkZ

iTrader: (2)

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This is so freakin' awesome! So christmas in july is not just a legend after all!?!

Woaw! Congratulations to Joe... Thanks for all your hard work man!

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MitsuJoe

iTrader: (133)

No problem. i am most happy to bring parts to the Ralliart, I sometimes enjoy driving it more then my EVO. Well sometimes...

Any ideas on the next part to produce? I really don't have many ideas.

PR_Mivec

iTrader: (7)

what about (for racers) an electric water pump.... to free up the rotation mass a bunch more.... works on some car why not ours? any toughts?