Rumblefish237

iTrader: (1)

Last week I replace my upper clutch line with a works SS clutch line and I replaced the lower clutch line/slave modulator with the RRM time attack clutch line. The following week I noticed a dramatic improvement of clutch engagement and overall responsiveness. This was an excellent modification and I fully recommend it.

Today I noticed that the clutch pedal is a little slack and it does not bounce back when I take my foot off, rather it returns to the "up" position without any force. In addition to this, when I place the car in reverse I usually ride the clutch a bit so I don't accelerate too quickly. Today when I reversed I rode the clutch as usual but when I tried to shift into first after reversing the shifter locked up and I could not get out of reverse. I think this happens because I do not fully disengage the clutch and for some reason I am losing hydraulic pressure. I was left with two ways to get out of reverse: I either fully disengaged the clutch while reversing thus not riding it n the first place and moving way too quickly backwards, or I disengage the clutch after riding it in reverse and stall the vehicle because I am stopped.

I tried to bleed the line, thinking that air may have gotten in the line somehow, but this did not improve the problem. I don't think its a transmission problem because I can drive forward using all gears without any problem. I replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder three months ago so I don't think there is an issue there.

This leaves me with only a couple ideas as to what the problem is:

1. The inside of one of the new lines is defective and has collapsed.

2. Without the slave modulator I should not be riding the clutch in reverse and I just need to get used to reversing at 10-15 km/hr.

3. Air is somehow constantly getting into my new clutch line causing poor engagement.

4. Something I have not thought of.

I do not have access to a hoist or professional mechanic for another two weeks. In the mean time if anyone can offer some advice I would really appreciate it. Thanks for reading.

The only thing

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

The symptom you describe has to be air in the line. Keep trying to bleed it. You might go thru a liter of fluid and an hour of time trying until the clutch works again. If there are two bleeder screws try bleeding them both.

Rumblefish237

iTrader: (1)

I received the same diagnosis from a friend of mine. I'm going to try a 30 minute air bleed then manual bleed. I was going to use the valve on the slave. Is the other bleed valve located on the master cylinder?

GearDownSon

iTrader: (11)

Yes there is but you should prob just do it on the slave. Check for leaks around the master. It is prone to do so. An dont do the whole pumping method.
Proper way to do so is this.
Open valve.
Push pedal to floor an hold.
Close valve
Release pedal.
Repeat many times.

Ralliartize It

iTrader: (89)

What I've done is to fill a container with brake fluid and run a hose fro the slave cylinder nipple to the container with brake fluid. Then pump, slowly but sure you will suck the brake fluid into the system to replace the air.

GearDownSon

iTrader: (11)

Yea a bleeder kits yields same results

otter

iTrader: (14)

I'd recommend either a vacuum bleeder (they're cheap) or a Motive Power Bleeder (less cheap but not overly expensive). Both will do a better job of bleeding your lines than pedal pumping will. Plus they're faster and only require 1 person.

http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Product...4580550&sr=1-5

The Ford 3 tab is the adapter that fits our master cylinder reservoir.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

yeah, air in the lines, or blown cylinder...i have nothing to add, lol

Ralliartize It

iTrader: (89)

99% sure it's your clutch master cylinder. Now buy mine

xmaster19

iTrader: (1)

+1 Master. Even new it could be defective. If bleeding doesn't do it, then you know what to do.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

inspect both for leaks

xmaster19

iTrader: (1)

If the master is leaking inside (between the cylinder and the firewall), there is no way he will see it. Still doesn't hurt to check it but it doesn't mean the master is ok.

Rumblefish237

iTrader: (1)

No leaks have been found anywhere. I replaced the stainless steel lines with the OEM lines and I still have the problem. Looks like I'm going to replace, yet again, the master cylinder. Im going to use one from an EVO 8 this time so as to be sure I never have to do this again. I found a clutmasters FX100 for $331 and and Fidanza Flywheel for $350. Both brand new with free shipping. Thinking about buying them and doing the instal when I do the master cylinder and replace the SS lines. Anyone have an opinion about this decision. Is this a good clutch/flywheel combo?

Ralliartize It

iTrader: (89)

The CMC replacement is pretty much done in the engine bay. Unless you need a new clutch and flywheel save your funds.

Rumblefish237

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I know the clutch and flywheel are separate from the CM. I just thought the price was good.