MACattack

History to the work: Caliper slide seized so removed all calipers from the car to clean and replace hardware. Brake fluid level went way down out of the reservoir and at this time I did the gut the clutch restrictor mod. Calipers back on car added brake fluid to reservoir above max bled brakes all ok. Try to bleed clutch release cylinder and get nothing but air long time working. Clutch pedal is extremely soft and cannot start car as the clutch does not disengage when pedal pressed in car tries to roll as if in gear. What did I do wrong and how do I fix? does clutch master cylinder need to be bled first?

RacerX-Ralliart

iTrader: (3)

Fill it to the rim and keep it there when bleeding the clutch.. I didn't have to bleed my master when mine got filled with air.. You can pull the hose off that goes from the brake master reservoir to the clutch master reservoir and see if fluid is even flowing to it.. Fill it to the rim and see if it comes out if it doesn't than your brake master reservoir is plugged of it does flow when filled to the top but you still don't get fluid to the slave than its prolly plugged farther down the line

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

what did you gut?

MACattack

This thing is what I gutted. (not my pics, but same thing).

RacerX-Ralliart

iTrader: (3)

I thought he meant he took it off.. I wonder if that's the cause.. Have you checked to see if fluid is flowing

MACattack

No cant do anything until im home from work tonight

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

fill and bleed the master, then continue to bleed the slave...

MACattack

Ok, fluid is not coming out here and yes reservoir is full. Clutch MC looks impossible to bleed, like really mits engineers??

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

i don't think the bleeder nipple is on the master cylinder itself...it's been a while since i had a peak...

MACattack

Oh the bleed nipple is definitely on that cylinder where even if you get a wrench on it what range of movement can you get? So stupid. Anyway I'm going to feel like an idiot now, I cleaned off some grime on the brake fluid reservoir and noticed the area that feeds the clutch line is a very small compartment and fluid only spills over into it at very high levels like above max line. I think previously I had drained the compartment while bleeding, but saw still near max levels in the reservoir so thought nothing of it but was just pulling air into the lines. Careful watch of the level and bleeding from the slave today worked clutch now disengages normally.

I am actually quite amazed at the difference without the clutch restrictor the car is so much easier to drive smoothly now. 7 years with the car man I should have done that so long ago.

Anyway thanks guys for the input helped steer me into looking in the right direction to find the problem.

RacerX-Ralliart

iTrader: (3)

I was right from the beginning good to here your back on the road.. Needs to be well above the max line to spill over to the clutch it's really stupid so if you get a leak in the clutch line your screwed if you don't have fluid on you

RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

hey man i just did the same thing dried my reservoir for the clutch even tho the brake part was full stupid safety designs lol< anyways how did u remove the clutch loop im thinking of doing this when i put on a new master and slave, is it just remove it and hook the lines or do u need a special adapter to connect the lines after?

thanks

RacerX-Ralliart

iTrader: (3)

You can bend the line from the clutch master to the slave that's how I have mine no fittings needed just needs some modification be careful that you don't kink the line though or bend it to much cause it will break

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

yeah, it's the same as a brake line...

MACattack

I just took the guts out of the restrictor valve and put it back into the line