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Installed CAI, car sputters, loser power at 5k

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Old Jul 10, 2013, 09:58 PM
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Installed CAI, car sputters, loser power at 5k

I installed my own CAI today and its all 3" have all the hoses/sensors hooked up. when I first start it up it sputters a lot for about 2min and then it runs just fine. However at WOT it has a sharp HP drop off at about 5k RPM. Any Ideas why this is happening? I do have a small leak I Intend to fix tomorrow but I can't see it making that big an issue.
Old Jul 10, 2013, 10:25 PM
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You intake pipe is too big. 3inch will cause all types of problems. It is throwing your maf off.
Old Jul 10, 2013, 11:25 PM
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sounds like your car is choking from the amount of air it's breathing in...
Old Jul 11, 2013, 05:12 AM
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What all of them said haha, did you buy a known name brand or one of the cheap CAI? I attempted the cheap route, it was made by Spyder (whoever they are). The piping was too large as yours is. If you had an AFR guage you would be able to see that you are probably super lean 17+ range.
Old Jul 11, 2013, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Darewood
What all of them said haha, did you buy a known name brand or one of the cheap CAI? I attempted the cheap route, it was made by Spyder (whoever they are). The piping was too large as yours is. If you had an AFR guage you would be able to see that you are probably super lean 17+ range.
yeah i've seen those "spyder" intakes around the web. they are very attractive as they boast CHEAP prices and QUALITY builds but i guess from Darewood's experience we should all stay away from these unknown brands and stick to Injen/AEM/K&N/etc.

@lbwilliams44: i say you yank that thing out and put your stock intake back on. if your car runs perfectly after that, then return the CAI that you bought to the wherever you got it from and invest a few more bucks into a brand name intake.

but...

if you don't want to spend too much, you can try RalliartN's amazing intake mod that cost almost NOTHING. i'm a very big advocate of this mod: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...take-pipe.html.

check it out and let us know what you think bro

cheers
Old Jul 11, 2013, 06:47 AM
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Thank you rzrxn.

Yeah, if your new intake pipe is a different diameter than the stock pipe where the MAF goes into, then there will be drivability problems. You can have different diameter pipes anywhere else and it'll be okay, but that location is critical.

A way to keep your stock battery yet do my inexpensive mod is:
  • keep the stock flexible rubber elbow that attaches to the aluminum intake manifold
  • keep the small plastic pipe section that houses the MAF
  • use a hacksaw to cut off that plastic MAF section right where it joins the airbox
  • remove the airbox and the intake snout that pokes out the front of the car
  • adapt a sewer pipe to the plastic MAF section
  • run the sewer pipe to the wheel well per my how-to post
  • use a large dry filter on the end of the 3" sewer pipe that pokes into the wheel well enclosure, there is room in that enclosed space for a big filter (but measure first just to be sure)
  • the only drawback is you'll have to remove the plastic wheel well splash shield to clean the filter every year

Use Krylon "fusion" satin black or red paint to make your creation look like a $300 item.

btw, one of the driving instructors who races an Acura told me he has the same mod on his track car, no problems ever.

Last edited by RalliartN; Jul 11, 2013 at 06:50 AM.
Old Jul 11, 2013, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RalliartN
Thank you rzrxn.

Yeah, if your new intake pipe is a different diameter than the stock pipe where the MAF goes into, then there will be drivability problems. You can have different diameter pipes anywhere else and it'll be okay, but that location is critical.

A way to keep your stock battery yet do my inexpensive mod is:
  • keep the stock flexible rubber elbow that attaches to the aluminum intake manifold
  • keep the small plastic pipe section that houses the MAF
  • use a hacksaw to cut off that plastic MAF section right where it joins the airbox
  • remove the airbox and the intake snout that pokes out the front of the car
  • adapt a sewer pipe to the plastic MAF section
  • run the sewer pipe to the wheel well per my how-to post
  • use a large dry filter on the end of the 3" sewer pipe that pokes into the wheel well enclosure, there is room in that enclosed space for a big filter (but measure first just to be sure)
  • the only drawback is you'll have to remove the plastic wheel well splash shield to clean the filter every year

Use Krylon "fusion" satin black or red paint to make your creation look like a $300 item.

btw, one of the driving instructors who races an Acura told me he has the same mod on his track car, no problems ever.
Nice! That's what always amazes me about these DIY projects--there's always room for improvement.

I myself am looking to do the same mod that you have some time in the near future. I really, really want that mod as I think it's the BEST intake upgrade you could possibly do on a stock system. And the good thing is that every other option's drawback is explained in your HOW-TO article so people can weigh the pros and cons.

Two thumbs up to that, bro!

Btw, my name is Geres just in case "rzrxn" sounds weird LOL. It's my GAMING name ahaha!

@lbwilliams44: If you are interested in this project and you need any kind of assistance, just ask us here and we would be more than happy to help.

Old Jul 11, 2013, 07:53 AM
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Yeah I was thinking that maybe getting too much air was the problem. Can this be fixed with a reflash? I have never run into this problem before from a CAI. And I didn't but this one, I modified my old Weapon-R Secret Weapon intake from an old Eclipse I had to pop the filter right under the battery. I chopped up the MAF section and attached it to a silicone section.

I ran some seafoam through to clear out the fuel delivery system to clear out the injectors and whatnot because i feel like im running out of gas at 5k RPM. It is running completely fine at WOT now but it still sputters a little bit at idle, its more lobby than sputtery though. Almost like a Big Cam was installed.

Is the only way to fix this issue to restrict the air flow? Or as I asked earlier, can it be fixed with an ECU flash?

And thanks a ton for the quick response and help guys, I really appreciate it.
Old Jul 11, 2013, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by lbwilliams44
Yeah I was thinking that maybe getting too much air was the problem. Can this be fixed with a reflash? I have never run into this problem before from a CAI. And I didn't but this one, I modified my old Weapon-R Secret Weapon intake from an old Eclipse I had to pop the filter right under the battery. I chopped up the MAF section and attached it to a silicone section.

I ran some seafoam through to clear out the fuel delivery system to clear out the injectors and whatnot because i feel like im running out of gas at 5k RPM. It is running completely fine at WOT now but it still sputters a little bit at idle, its more lobby than sputtery though. Almost like a Big Cam was installed.

Is the only way to fix this issue to restrict the air flow? Or as I asked earlier, can it be fixed with an ECU flash?

And thanks a ton for the quick response and help guys, I really appreciate it.
Hmmm, this is what came to my mind when you posted this:

Originally Posted by RalliartN
Yeah, if your new intake pipe is a different diameter than the stock pipe where the MAF goes into, then there will be drivability problems. You can have different diameter pipes anywhere else and it'll be okay, but that location is critical."
I think you should look into all the fittings and whatnot. Maybe something is loose? I'm betting on the piping just not satisfying your MAF. But you never know, it may be something else.

Keep on investigating!
Old Jul 11, 2013, 08:26 AM
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rzrxn if you're coming east for any car stuff with Cranswick or something, please let me know and I'll make sure to meet you. Maybe you'd want to play at a test n' tune one evening in Shannonville this summer, when both the short track and the drag strip are rocking at the same time (check their website) - don't be shy about your car or your experience, it's just easygoing fun.
Old Jul 11, 2013, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by RalliartN
if you're coming east for any car stuff with Cranswick or something, please let me know and I'll make sure to meet you.
I was just going to say that Cranswick and I are talking right now about my trans rebuild and I'm just looking to see when he would be available as I don't want to disturb. But I will give you a call for sure! I think you have my number so just text me yours and we'll get in touch, bro

Originally Posted by RalliartN
Maybe you'd want to play at a test n' tune one evening in Shannonville this summer, when both the short track and the drag strip are rocking at the same time (check their website) - don't be shy about your car or your experience, it's just easygoing fun.
For sure! Let's do it!

But then again I'm worried that my RA might breakdown since she needs some work done on her. I wouldn't want to kill her. Plus, I have no track experience, whatsoever so I will suck.

But you know what? It's just like you said, it's all about having fun and enjoying our Ralliarts (we own, what else can I say lol). I'll be sure to join you guys when you decide to go. I promise I won't be a little ***** about it ahaha!

If we ever go, it will be my very first time on a track with my beloved Ralliart

Thanks for the hospitality and generosity! It all really goes a long way!
Old Jul 11, 2013, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rzrxn
Hmmm, this is what came to my mind when you posted this:



I think you should look into all the fittings and whatnot. Maybe something is loose? I'm betting on the piping just not satisfying your MAF. But you never know, it may be something else.

Keep on investigating!
Actually that second quote would really really make sense. I have a 2" MAF probe measuring the velocity of the air that the car THINKS is a 2" tube, but its a 3" tube. so if its moving 2'/sec through that tube, its going to think the car is getting 62 cubic feet per second at WOT, where it is actually getting about 120 Cubic feet. This all makes sense now. I need to change my 3" silcone 1' section to 2' and the ECU should read it correctly right? (I don't know the actual feet per second that goes through or drag coefficients, just a rough guess.)"

Last edited by lbwilliams44; Jul 11, 2013 at 11:40 AM.
Old Jul 11, 2013, 11:42 AM
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It will sort of be a bummer to have that back into a 2" tube though, with that open end at the bottom of that MAF probe. It whistles REALLY loud when the air goes over it and sounds like a turbo. Cheap thrills, but I dig it hahaha.
Old Jul 11, 2013, 11:50 AM
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@lbwilliams44:
Glad I could be of assistance! I was just throwing things in the air and was hoping maybe something might spark a thought and I guess it worked.

Bro, when I first came to EvoM I didn't even HAVE a Ralliart. I was just a boy looking to get my first car (2004 Ralliart). If you look through my first posts here, you'll see how helpful everyone is. They were all kind enough to help me through all the hassles of making sure I'm not buying a LEMON.

I've read countless threads here and now I have a bit of knowledge on our 2004-2006 Ralliarts and I'm happy to help a brother out. Just keep shooting questions and we will answer you to the best of our abilities. Remember our motto: "MITSU 4 LIFE"

Cheers my friend!

Last edited by rzrxn; Jul 11, 2013 at 11:53 AM.
Old Jul 11, 2013, 11:56 AM
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Thanks I really appreciate that. I raced DSMs for 9 years and recently made the switch to something more "family friendly" per my wifes request (no turbos/4 doors) so I am in slightly familiar territory but runnin kind of blind. I think shrinking the line the MAF is in will fix the problem, it makes a lot of sense to me. Theres a flow difference between a 2" tube and a 3" tube at the same velocity. My ecu probably thinks my MAF is drunk. I will keep you guys posted to see if that fixes the problem.


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