The Official Ralliart NOOB Thread
Aug 3, 2005, 02:46 PM
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Turbocharger vs Supercharger
Ah yes, the infamous turbo vs supercharger question which gets asked so many times, heres the lowdown on the two.
First of all, both turbochargers and superchargers have their own strengths and weaknesses.
The Supercharger
Superchargers are compressors which use power from the engine to compress the intake air. In reality, turbochargers are superchargers which are driven by engine exhaust. Typically, however, when one refers to a supercharger, they mean all superchargers except turbochargers. There are three types of superchargers which are commonly used: the roots blower, centrifugal superchargers, and screw-type superchargers. Each of these superchargers are driven by a pulley system by the engine crankshaft, so the faster the engine speed, the faster the supercharger speed. The roots blower and screw-type superchargers typically operate up to 15,000 RPMS. The centrifugal supercharger can reach speeds exceeding 40,000 RPMS.
The Turbocharger
Turbochargers, however, are driven by the engine's exhaust gases. A turbocharger operates at maximum speeds often reaching 150,000 RPMS.
The Comparison: Turbocharger vs Supercharger
Response. Superchargers afford the engine immediate response since the supercharger is always compressing intake air, provided that the engine is rotating. Although this initial boost is very small, it's growth is gradual with increased engine speed, resulting in a smooth increase in power. Turbochargers, on the other hand, suffer from what is refered to as turbo lag. Because of the inertia of the turbocharger rotating assembly, the turbo must "spool up" before it is able to compress air, so there is no power increase at low engine speeds, as the turbo impeller starts rotating. At WOT (wide-open throttle), there is usually a very sudden increase in turbo boost at a certain RPM range (typically near 3000 RPM). If you've ever driven a turbocharged vehicle, you probably know what this kick in the pants feels like. Turbochargers can also be sized so that faster response is acheived. For example, diesel engines use turbochargers which are small enough to spool by 1700-2000 RPMS. The trade-off is that maximum power can't be reached with such a small turbocharger.
Reliability
People often say that superchargers are more reliable than turbochargers. Because turbochargers operate at such high temperatures and are oil lubricated, if they are not allowed to cool down before the engine is turned off, the oil can bake inside the turbocharger. This can result in shorter turbocharger life. However, with proper care and cool down, a turbocharger can last as long as an engine.
So what should I get?
The main advantages to supercharging are low-end response (not the case with centrifugal types) and simplicity. The main advantages to turbocharging are efficiency and the realization of maximum power.
First of all, both turbochargers and superchargers have their own strengths and weaknesses.
The Supercharger
Superchargers are compressors which use power from the engine to compress the intake air. In reality, turbochargers are superchargers which are driven by engine exhaust. Typically, however, when one refers to a supercharger, they mean all superchargers except turbochargers. There are three types of superchargers which are commonly used: the roots blower, centrifugal superchargers, and screw-type superchargers. Each of these superchargers are driven by a pulley system by the engine crankshaft, so the faster the engine speed, the faster the supercharger speed. The roots blower and screw-type superchargers typically operate up to 15,000 RPMS. The centrifugal supercharger can reach speeds exceeding 40,000 RPMS.
The Turbocharger
Turbochargers, however, are driven by the engine's exhaust gases. A turbocharger operates at maximum speeds often reaching 150,000 RPMS.
The Comparison: Turbocharger vs Supercharger
Response. Superchargers afford the engine immediate response since the supercharger is always compressing intake air, provided that the engine is rotating. Although this initial boost is very small, it's growth is gradual with increased engine speed, resulting in a smooth increase in power. Turbochargers, on the other hand, suffer from what is refered to as turbo lag. Because of the inertia of the turbocharger rotating assembly, the turbo must "spool up" before it is able to compress air, so there is no power increase at low engine speeds, as the turbo impeller starts rotating. At WOT (wide-open throttle), there is usually a very sudden increase in turbo boost at a certain RPM range (typically near 3000 RPM). If you've ever driven a turbocharged vehicle, you probably know what this kick in the pants feels like. Turbochargers can also be sized so that faster response is acheived. For example, diesel engines use turbochargers which are small enough to spool by 1700-2000 RPMS. The trade-off is that maximum power can't be reached with such a small turbocharger.
Reliability
People often say that superchargers are more reliable than turbochargers. Because turbochargers operate at such high temperatures and are oil lubricated, if they are not allowed to cool down before the engine is turned off, the oil can bake inside the turbocharger. This can result in shorter turbocharger life. However, with proper care and cool down, a turbocharger can last as long as an engine.
So what should I get?
The main advantages to supercharging are low-end response (not the case with centrifugal types) and simplicity. The main advantages to turbocharging are efficiency and the realization of maximum power.
Last edited by BLKRalliArt04; Aug 3, 2005 at 05:49 PM.
Sep 26, 2005, 05:13 PM
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Where can I buy aftermarket taillights for my Lancer?
You have two choices from Burg Design, however they are based out in Australia.
Black Taillights
Chrome Taillights
Black Taillights
Chrome Taillights
Oct 25, 2005, 05:17 AM
#66
Originally Posted by BLKRalliArt04
I almost forgot the biggest one of them all...
A MOD TO YOUR CAR CAN ONLY VOID THE WARRANTY IF THAT SPECIFIC MOD IS THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM So if you put on lowering springs and your alternator goes bad, since the springs have nothing to do with the alternator, you wont have any problems voiding the warranty.
A MOD TO YOUR CAR CAN ONLY VOID THE WARRANTY IF THAT SPECIFIC MOD IS THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM So if you put on lowering springs and your alternator goes bad, since the springs have nothing to do with the alternator, you wont have any problems voiding the warranty.
Oct 25, 2005, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by fkdrcrs
so basically if you have the piggy back and you have any type of computer or sensor problem i guess your screwed right?
Nov 21, 2005, 04:48 AM
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I installed an SRI/CAI, how do I get rid of the SES light?
This is a quote taken from "otter".
Go over your CAI/SRI installation, make sure you installed everything correctly, the clamps are tight, and the MAF sensor is in correctly. Once you're sure of that, reset your ECU by disconnecting your battery for 10 minutes.
Go over your CAI/SRI installation, make sure you installed everything correctly, the clamps are tight, and the MAF sensor is in correctly. Once you're sure of that, reset your ECU by disconnecting your battery for 10 minutes.
Nov 28, 2005, 04:38 AM
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Cheapest place to buy an intake?
www.ptuning.com or www.coximport.com are probably the cheapest places you are going to find.
Last edited by BLKRalliArt04; Nov 28, 2005 at 04:58 AM.
Nov 28, 2005, 05:12 AM
#73
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Steps to modifying the engine in the 2.4L Mivec Ralliart
Steps to Modifying the engine in your Lancer Ralliart
*Note, this applies to Ralliart Lancers only. The order of importance is different than other normally aspirated Lancer engines.*
*Note #2, the installation ratings are based on a moderately knowledgeable individual with basic knowledge of cars.*
1) Short Ram Intake/Cold Air Intake: For most cars out there, the intake is the first part of the engine that goes. Replacing the restrictive stock intake to get more air into the engine is always a top priority when it comes to getting more power out of your engine.
*Installation Difficulty (1-10, with 10 being the hardest) SRI-3 CAI-5/6 (removing the front bumper is what makes this more difficult)
*Est. Power Produced (very rough estimate) SRI-3 to 5hp CAI-5 to 8hp
2) RRM Downpipe: Lets face it, the stock downpipe sucks. There are more twists and turns in it than a mountain road. Replacing the stock downpipe with an RRM downpipe not only frees the airflow drastically, but eliminates the catalytic converter. This is a decent power mod in that is increases the air flow, however, removal of your working catalytic converter is illegal, and dont plan on passing a smog test with it off. Another note that should be mentioned is that it is very LOUD.
*Installation Difficulty 5 to 6
*Est. Power Produced 5 to 10hp
3) Underdrive Pulley Kit (UDP): A good mod for the money. A lightweight crank pulley that is under-driven to release more power in unsprung weight from the engine. It results in an under-drive of around 25%, which frees up power. (Road Race Motorsports, www.roadracemotorsports.com )
*Installation Difficulty 3.5
*Est. Power Produced 6 to 7whp
4) Piggyback ECU As far as power goes, a piggyback ecu is one of the best mods you can do. The RRM piggyback does most of its work in the upper RPM range
*To be continued, THIS IS NOT FINISHED*
*Note, this applies to Ralliart Lancers only. The order of importance is different than other normally aspirated Lancer engines.*
*Note #2, the installation ratings are based on a moderately knowledgeable individual with basic knowledge of cars.*
1) Short Ram Intake/Cold Air Intake: For most cars out there, the intake is the first part of the engine that goes. Replacing the restrictive stock intake to get more air into the engine is always a top priority when it comes to getting more power out of your engine.
*Installation Difficulty (1-10, with 10 being the hardest) SRI-3 CAI-5/6 (removing the front bumper is what makes this more difficult)
*Est. Power Produced (very rough estimate) SRI-3 to 5hp CAI-5 to 8hp
2) RRM Downpipe: Lets face it, the stock downpipe sucks. There are more twists and turns in it than a mountain road. Replacing the stock downpipe with an RRM downpipe not only frees the airflow drastically, but eliminates the catalytic converter. This is a decent power mod in that is increases the air flow, however, removal of your working catalytic converter is illegal, and dont plan on passing a smog test with it off. Another note that should be mentioned is that it is very LOUD.
*Installation Difficulty 5 to 6
*Est. Power Produced 5 to 10hp
3) Underdrive Pulley Kit (UDP): A good mod for the money. A lightweight crank pulley that is under-driven to release more power in unsprung weight from the engine. It results in an under-drive of around 25%, which frees up power. (Road Race Motorsports, www.roadracemotorsports.com )
*Installation Difficulty 3.5
*Est. Power Produced 6 to 7whp
4) Piggyback ECU As far as power goes, a piggyback ecu is one of the best mods you can do. The RRM piggyback does most of its work in the upper RPM range
*To be continued, THIS IS NOT FINISHED*
Dec 15, 2005, 07:33 AM
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Where can I get Projector headlights for my RA?
Chrome Halo Projectors
Be advised that you have to use H3 bulbs for the headlights, and vision at night will be reduced drastically when compared to stock headlights.
Be advised that you have to use H3 bulbs for the headlights, and vision at night will be reduced drastically when compared to stock headlights.
Jan 29, 2006, 06:58 AM
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dakbaker
I have a new 2004 Raliart wagon. Less than 3K miles. The MPG is much less than what I expected. 16-18 in town, max 25 on the road. Very dissapointing. Anyone have suggestions on MPG improvement? If I can't get better mileage, may sell car.
Dan in Lake Havasu
Dan in Lake Havasu
