CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

stk?

bryanp112

Nice write up!

heckler

Stick, manual

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

I posted this, inadvertantly, in another thread and now I'm transfering it to a more applicable one. Below this are the comments that followed as well:

"Okay, laugh, snicker, call me names, and murmur, but don't call me late for dinner! While waiting for the big purchase (turbokit.com), I am humbled to even consider posting this amidst the big boy accomplishments but, here is my latest plumbing attempt at creating a cooler environment for my short RAM intake on my '04 Sportback A/T, by using plumbing supplies (yes, you heard it right) from Lowe's Home Improvement store!

First, I bought a 4" to 6" rubber pipe adapter, and a 2" to 3" pvc adapter = $25.00. Took this home and added a rubber pipe coupler, pushed this assembly flush against my Spectre air filter, then mounted the OEM air intake duct and measured how much/little distance I had left and shortened it respectively (not much left)!. Pushing the air intake duct into the rubber coupler, and two plastic push fasteners later, here's what I came up with:





Note: Since I lost the moisture reservoir, after cutting down the air duct, I stretched a piece of nylon stocking over the end of the 2" end of the pvc adapter, and added a circle of vacuum filter foam distal to that, then reset the ECU, Any check engine lights yet? Nope. Will this actually make a difference? I have no idea yet. Will the rubber/pvc hold up to the heat? So far, so good. Did I accomplish what I envisioned? I think so. Did I have fun today? After also replacing all four brake rotors with dimpled and slotted ones and EBC Yellowstuff pads all around...Yep!


Okay, I'm done, let me have it...
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CrAnSwIcK

"don't sell yourself short man, that's pretty good...truth be told, i improvised in a few areas on my turbo kit...my injector o-rings, and fuel rail spacers are from the plumbing section at canadian tire. Also my BOV recirculation pipe/tube is a section of corrugated sump pump hose ...

nuff about mine, yours is pretty good man, it almost looks OEM...one thing you'll want to do is get a scan tool, or scanner app on your smart phone and monitor intake air temperature with and without it, at different speeds and report back your findings (in your own thread, you darn thread-jacker)

good work man, hope it works well "
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2006_RA

"That's a pretty good effort to me. Not only that, but it looks like it would achieve the desired result too. Best part is, no one else has one on their car."
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kapitolralliart

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006_RA
"Best part is, no one else has one on their car."

^ I agree


-cheers
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truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Btw, this is a SAI for a manual transmission (note the angle from the elbow), and I too, chased a CEL for a while. I solved it though by changing to 91-93 octane fuel (91 seems to get better mpg for some reason) and sinking the filter as far as it'll go on the end of the tube. I've begun trials on my "plumbing" system, ie; surface temps at different locations, and at different speeds, and I'll be posting them soon. So far, the findings are pretty impressive!

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

Nice , post up those before and after temps

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Okay, the following are just the numbers that I recorded and whether they represent true air temperatures that enter the throttle body is doubtful. Anyhow, I'll be listing outside air temps, set speeds, distance traveled at the "set speed," and temps at the filter, as well as where the SAI connects to the throttle body (TB), with (w) and without (w/o) the "plumbing" kit installed. After traveling the set distance, I would pull over ASAP, open the hood, and point the Raytek MiniTemp FS laser temperature sensor at the same desired sites every time:



Outside Temp. \ MPH \ Distance \ Temps (filter/TB)
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
(w) 75F \ 65 \ 5mi \ 90°/111°

(w/o)75F \ 65 \ 5mi \ 114°/115°






The following numbers are after city driving at an averaged speed:

(w) 77° \ 27 \ 5mi \ 120°/127°

(w/o)75° \ 28.3 \ 5mi \ 117/129°






I'll be doing the same at 45mph next and post the results. Going to Maryland till the weekend in about thirty minutes so I'll be "out of pocket" for a few days and continue when I get back.

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

With all due respect, and your work is very nice and I really admire the effort, however this system is just like the stock air intake except it now has a cylindrical filter instead of a flat panel filter.

Good design exercise, but now that it's done I don't see the point or benefit. Sorry, don't mean to sound negative, you are quite creative.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

although it is just fixing the problems created with installing a short ram intake in the first place, you must admit there is some aesthetics at work there...

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

I thought about the OEM system as well and wondered the same thing, "Why not just leave it stock?" Well, what are these kids after, cooler air intake, right? Put a bend in a short tube, angle it away from the hotter part of the engine, or better yet, route it completely down and away from the engine, towards the ground and voila!" You've brought up a good point, and now I'll have to see what temps the stock system produces and how much harder the engine has to work to pull the air into the throttle body. Without even proceeding with this test, I could already speculate that the air temps would be similar/cooler, yet more restricted for the stock system pulls the air from the air duct only where mine pulls air from both the air duct and engine compartment, hence, probably the warmer temp at the throttle body (speculation). Cold air and less restricted air flow is what they're after correct? I can't easily route a CAI on my AT so this is what I came up with and I feel I accomplished both, colder air intake, and maintained less-restricted air flow... @ $25, I'm happy.

Edit: The stock system is enclosed...this is not enclosed thus not "just like the stock air intake except it now has a cylindrical filter instead of a flat panel filter."

How about gas mileage? I'll run that too and get back with ya'll.





Edit: What does all this really mean? Probably nothing, lol!

Okay, for what it's worth:

Outside Temp. \ MPH \ Distance \ Temps F (Filter/TB)
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
(w) 55F \ 45 \ 5mi \ 89.5°/94.5°

(w/o)55F \ 45 \ 5mi \ 92°/97.5°



(w)55F \ 45 \ 5mi \ 90°/95°

(w/o)55F \ 45 \ 5mi \ 95°/98°

So far, it's pretty obvious that cooler temperatures are being logged with the device installed, and what's even better, I'm accomplishing it with a minimal risk of hydro-locking my engine, even on rainy days and going through puddles! With the CAI, I could speculate that the temps at the filter would be significantly lower but I wonder what temps they produce at the throttle body after traveling the length of the tube?


Edit: Some more laps at (65)mph...

Outside Temp. \ MPH \ Distance \ Temps F (Filter/TB)
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯
(w/o)62F \ 65 \ 5mi \ 101°/104°

(w)62F \ 65 \ 5mi \ 93°/97°

(w/o)62F \ 65 \ 5mi \ 103°/105°

First tank (with device):

(27) mpg with (91) Octane with the device installed (combined city and highway). Normal gas mileage (OEM air filter installed): (22) city (29) highway.


Second tank (without device)...

(24.8) mpg (combined city and highway).



Third tank (with)...

Fourth tank (without)...




I don't see much difference in what this set up is trying to accomplish than what I did...is there? Then again, you're right RalliartN, there may not be any, "point or benefit." The "point" was to try and create a cooler airflow into the throttle body, whereas the "benefits" are what I'm trying to figure out.

$MIVEC$

I have a question about your cone filter. Is it an open top or closed top?

Example:



or




This shows your a hands on creative person and props for the DYI but the temperature differences are not that big of a change, they are only 3-4 degrees. The cost is not $25 but its $25 more plus the cost of the SRI.

I ask about the top shape of the cone because the air flow from your DYI could be negligible depending on its shape. The intake sucks air fairly hard at higher RPMs and since most filters suck the most air from the sides then you would rather check temperatures at certain RPMs and not at certain cruising speeds.

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Like I've said before, all of this may not mean a thing, but, as you can see, I'm having fun with it.

My filter is a Spectre filter from AutoZone with an open, cone-shaped end as you've posted, and as seen in this photo:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...0&ref=gnr-prev

Unfortunately, I don't have the ability to measure temps other than with what I've already mentioned. If I could get a sensor inside the SAI at the throttle body, and be able to monitor it while driving at different speeds, rpms, etc., then I'd be golden, but I haven't figured that out yet. From what I'm seeing is that people are trying to create a cooler environment for air intake and I've done that. The air around the my filter without any protection is incredibly hot coming off of the radiator. Just the boot alone protects the filter from some of this heat, and the numbers alone tells what it does at 45 -65 mph!

Edit: I actually got a reading of 415 degrees off of the exhaust manifold which as you know is right in front of the radiator. I knew it got hot but, honestly, I had no idea it got that hot!

truthdweller

iTrader: (1)

Although not a Mitsubishi, this article does a great job in comparing a Cone Filter vs. a CAI on a Ford Probe:

http://www.performanceprobe.com/inde...icles&page=cai

"As a rule of thumb, it's figured that for every 10° drop in intake temperature, you gain 1% horsepower."



I can tell you already that, by the method I'm using, it doesn't come close to measuring the actual temperature of the air going into the throttle body, but rather just the surface temperature of the filter and SAI at the throttle body. On that note, I wont be posting anything further. Thanks for the input.

heckler

Wats up guys been a while since I poste, had my cai now for a almost a year in my auto 05 by injen and so far no hydro lock wats so ever so I'm thinking its a urban mythe kinda thing, by the way I have no sheilds to protect from it. I have noticed and heard alittle difference in sound after a car wash at the station so I say just take it easy after a car wash to let the cone dry up before ripping it. I'm guessing the only real way to get hydro lock would be a big pot hole filled with water located right where the cone is, cause so far heavy pour little pour never hydro locked it. Only thing was the under body wash at a gas station got the cone pretty wet, I heard to much stress with no power delivery so automaticly I backed off and grannied it till I got where I needed to go. Once she dried after awhile it was sweet sounds agains. Hopes this helps the guys freaking out about hydro lock do not worry just avoid pot holes with water n your cruising at least till u get pulled over lol cya

heckler

Towards the whole home made pipe like the man said that's creative now get a hood scoop in there or route side holes with some piping to direct the air from the side or roof directly to your cone. I'm thinking go roof there's alittle more room maybe a small scoop on the drivers corner near the light and direct that air with a pipe straight to your cone, also fender holes are good to route all the hot air out of engine bay. With both additions you should receive much cooler air as well you'll have a nice look going to :-) and don't mind the other guy creative people r the ones who desing things once they get it right threw (testing) hence the word testing. U don't think big names don't go threw a whole lot of testing