Raikiri

iTrader: (21)

i am so confused right now o.o right body wrong engine... its like a one night stand that turns out to go horrifically wrong

those wheels scream oz rally to me. idk if the oz rallys came with the front strut bar or not?

khalid.alghawas

Nothing of a fix seems normal they usually are all weird but what do you mean by unplugging it, do u mean the ecu? It is the one big one under the hood right? Should I do it with the car on or off? Any procedures I should follow for it. Sorry for to may questions just never read around about unplugging an ecu before.

RacerX-Ralliart

iTrader: (3)

Looks like he has rear disc and abs too

Yea I think he is talking about unplugging the ecu. You can test the maf you just have to find the signal wire and pull voltage and than have someone rev the engine while you look at the values

Darewood

Sorry about that, I was talking about unplugging the ECU. It should be located under the glovebox.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

THIS^

take the glove box out, you'll see it...the one under the hood is the front ECU, i think that's mostly for lighting...

khalid.alghawas

Ok I'll have look at that and see what I get

Under the glove box? Let me have a look under there. Any tips on how to make.it easier to get in? I've always removed the glove box to pull out the filter for the ac.

I attached some pictures of the interior and the car does have rear sway bar.

Raikiri

iTrader: (21)

^i approve of the dual din

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

weird, we don't have chrome interior door handles, you have the 2002-2003 ES, LS, OZ dash board style with the big hazard light switch under the clock, our is smaller and on the top left corner of the cd player bezel.

Also, your steering wheel is the same shape as mine but what are those +/- buttons for? and it's weird that you have the rear sway bar but not the front strut brace. and 4 bolt hubs with 4 wheel disc/ABS would get the OZ guys drooling...

P.S.
looks dusty in Qatar

RacerX-Ralliart

iTrader: (3)

The title should be changed to Frankenstein ralliart hahaha pretty neat now I understand why rock auto offers 4 stud disc rotors for the ralliart

khalid.alghawas

UPDATE: I noticed the acceleration harness was quite loose so I tightened it up a bit and took it for a spin. This time I noticed that my car actually doesn't shut off, the car just looses power after a strong throttle, rpm drops to 500 when idle, shakes like it's about to die and revs feel heavy, and car had to be shut off and turned on to cure it.
I unplugged the ecu not sure if it is the ecu but it's sitting in my room once.the sum is down I'll plug it back and see what happens. I couldn't check on the maf yet I'm still waiting for another pair of hands.

The +/- on the steering are the changing up/down of the gears if I put the car on the tonic side(not sure how it's called but I have the Park, reverse, neutral and then drive, right next to drive I can push it to the left to manually shift gears. Ya it's always been dusty and if not dusty rainy
Thanks raikiri, that's the first mod I did to the car even did a brake bypass

khalid.alghawas

Ok so far I've plugged back the ecu and no difference car still shuts off after a strong throttle. Checked the powers of the wire to the maf and to me they seem like there getting it. My only option that I can think of at the moment is to try and find someone who has that sane maf and in working order and try it out. If I'm getting the same thing then I know for sure it's something else or the plug itself. I can't think of any other reason this would happen. Today I tried throttle it and after it shut down I got all 3 codes for the maf which hadn't come on for the past few days when it actually shut off and I got the code 44 ign. Sgnl 1. Now I'm not even sure if the code 44 is even related to ignition coils.... im just lost

Raikiri

iTrader: (21)

How long has it been since you bought the car from the dealer? Shouldn't they have some sort of a warranty within so many days if there's problems with the car they just sold?

RacerX-Ralliart

iTrader: (3)

I know on the ozs that when you unplug the battery or reset the ecu it will do this for about 5-10 mins and you should drive it around til it stops iirc

Is it when you just stomp on the pedal that it dies out or can it be gradually pressed down to wot and not die?

khalid.alghawas

no thereisnt cause i bought this car awhile back from its second owner

once it does happen i can press down on the pedal alot for it not to die but it would feel hesvy to get the revs up. ive slso noticed that this doesnt just happen i start the car and drive off on first gear. there seems to be a certain condition or a certAin gear for this to happen.

khalid.alghawas

UPDATE: i tried to test the car out and see on which gears does the engine die out. seems to me on the first and second gear only and the only other thing i can notice that it could be pressure. i tried to check all the sensors around the TB and maf sensor gets me all codes once removed, pulled the TPS sensor and i get a code for that and i pulled another sensor thats located at the bottom of the TB but not sure what it is called but thats the one im not getting any codes for. not sure if its normal that i shouldnt get a code for that but if you guys can tell what is that sensor and will it be possible that its the one causing a problem for me.