BLKRalliArt04

iTrader: (18)

What is it?
A lightweight crank pulley that is under-driven to release more power in unsprung weight from the engine. It results in an under-drive of around 25%, which frees up power.

What does it fit?
It will fit 2004-2006 US Ralliarts with the 2.4 MIVEC engine. It will work on auto or manual transmission vehicles.

What is the weight differences?
The better pulley is .58lbs and the 3.911lbs. This is nearly 85% lighter. This was done on a calibrated grams scale used at the Backwoods Racing engine shop.

Is it safe?
Yes, the RA has a stock harmonic pulley, which acts as a dampener against vibration on the crank. The stock crank is semi balanced although the balance shafts in the RA engine do the best job of dampening true vibration on the whole engine. The stock pulley is meant to smooth idle out and keep vibrations inside the cab happy. On a stock car or not after a few thousand miles your RA develops worse vibrations/rattles then you would ever be able to feel with this pulley.

What are the long-term effects?
There are several cars of various different makes that have run lighter/under-driven pulleys for years without any problems with the engine, transmission, etc. In my short term testing on the RA I have seen no adverse effects, no check engine lights and I have more than made sure I was hard on the car to bring out any effects there could be. I feel 100% safe selling this pulley to any RA owner.

Where will I feel power?
On a stock car or modified RA you will feel gains. This pulley improves low-end torque and also makes the accelerator pedal easier to apply it makes the engine rev quicker to redline.

How will such a pulley affect my awesome sound system?
I had AutoZone hook-up a charging system tester and it showed readings the same as stock. There was no loss in AMPS /VOLTS. This car has the stock battery and no other power related modifications. You can keep banging and rolling with this pulley!

Will this affect your warranty?
As with any modification there is always a possibility that there could be unseen effects where problems could be caused. It is up to you to do the bait and switch method when going in for service although I doubt this would really matter. These pulleys are balanced and should cause no engine damage or warranty concerns when at service. As always any damages resulting from modifications are the responsibility of the owner of the car and I will reserve no rights to any liability from damage this pulley could cause on your vehicle.

How long does it take to install?
If you do this yourself you will want to set aside around one hour of time. At a shop this should take about an hour of time for them to do. Do not let them over charge you. It does not require any special or complicated tools.

Do I need a harmonic dampener?
The main purpose of a harmonic dampener is to reduce vibration inside the cab and to make the engine run smoother. I felt no difference in this with the better pulley although it is a question that was asked so I wanted to answer it.

What about this pulley and the RIPP SC Kit?
A supercharger is belt driven. Changing the stock pulley to a lighter/under-driven pulley will directly affect the rotation of the belt and will require a different calibration of the pulley used in the RIPP SC system. The two parts can work together although you will need probably a smaller pulley on the SC to produce more boost as now with the under-driven pulley now turns everything less. You will need to confirm this with RIPP.

Will this affect timing?
Timing is calculated from many different factors of engine RPM and multiple sensors. This is a mechanical belt driven pulley, which does not require changing timing and will not affect your timing in any way. Your timing belt and your serpentine belt are two different belts.



Instructions:

Tools Needed:
½” Drive Ratchet wrench with 3” extension
3/8” Drive Ratchet wrench
3/8” Drive 12mm long extension
3/8” Drive 10mm long extension needed to remove splashguards
Allen wrench of medium size to hold pensioner
Jack and Jack stand to hold up car
4 way to remove lug nuts
Various screw drivers Phillips & straight to remove plastic splashguards
Your new Pulley
Your new Belt
About One Hour of Time

Directions:
1. Park your car in a level safe work area, let your car cool for a little while if needed.
2. Loosen the lug nuts a few turns on your passenger right front wheel
3. Jack the car up and support it securely on a jack stand
4. Remove the wheel from the car
5. Remove the splash guards behind the strut and under the oil filter. This step is difficult, not technically although will take some patience.
6. At this pint you will pop the hood if you have not done so already. You will now want to observe the belt routing. Take notes if you need to.
7. Next step is too loosen although do not remove the 4 bolts on the stock pulley
8. You will now want to observe the tensioner. You will see the part on the tensioner where the 1/2" drive goes. At the bottom left corner of the tensioner you will see a small round hole where the Allen wrench goes into. You do not want the wrench any farter than 1/2" into this hole.
9. Next you want to take the 1/2" drive and pull it towards the front of the car which will take the tensioner towards the rear of the car. This will begin to remove tension from the belt.
10. At the point which you cannot pull the tensioner any more you will now see that your Allen wrench can be pushed through to hold the tensioner back. This step can be done with one person although it is difficult to hold the tensioner back and then push the Allen wrench through.
11. You can now let go of the wrench and the belt tension should be free and the tensioner should be held in place.
12. You will now remove the belt from the car taking careful note of how it is routed.
13. Next you will remove the 4 bolts from the stock pulley and remove the pulley from the car.
14. Next you will put the better pulley on making sure to line of the notch on the crank to the proper hole on the pulley. This is easy to do and there is only one way to do
15. Next you will put the 4 bolts on and tighten them down so the pulley is no longer loose.
16. Now you will prepare your belt by removing the folds and trying to straighten it out like the old belt
17. You will now put the belt on the car, make sure it is set in all the pullies correctly
18. You will now remove the Allen wrench on the tensioner by turning the tensioner towards the rear of the car by using the 1/2" ratchet.
19. Now that you have belt tension tighten the 4 crank bolts down as hard as you can. I do not have torque specs for these.
20. After this do a final check of the belt and the pulley to make sure everything is tight and the area is free of tools and anything that would hurt a test start.
21. Test it by starting the car and observe the belt and pulley to make sure everything is tight and spinning correctly.
22. After testing you will now be ok to put the splash shields back on, put the wheel back on, hand tighten the lug nuts, raise the jack, remove the jack stand, lower the jack, then double check the lug nuts to make sure they are tight.
23. Go drive your car, be impressed with the results and tell your Ralliart friends to buy one.