I-J crank scraper installation
Aug 8, 2014, 07:08 AM
#17
That's just fantastic planning and foresight when you were building your house.
Versus getting a lift which would need proper installation, maintenance not to mention ceiling height, it's a very simple, yet elegant solution that I would not have come up with in a million years. All I came up with for the garage when getting my house was a 2nd light fixture, a 2nd extra light switch and a 2nd plug.
I went back to ask for hot water and a 240V plug but they said it was too late.
I've been considering a lift but aside from the afore mentioned points, I have this fear of the car falling on me because the lift gets installed badly. I'm not typically so irrational.
I'll drink to you this evening.
Versus getting a lift which would need proper installation, maintenance not to mention ceiling height, it's a very simple, yet elegant solution that I would not have come up with in a million years. All I came up with for the garage when getting my house was a 2nd light fixture, a 2nd extra light switch and a 2nd plug.
I went back to ask for hot water and a 240V plug but they said it was too late.
I've been considering a lift but aside from the afore mentioned points, I have this fear of the car falling on me because the lift gets installed badly. I'm not typically so irrational.
I'll drink to you this evening.
Aug 12, 2014, 08:15 AM
#20
I was going to make a separate thread but perhaps its better to tuck it in here 
. It is just to share interesting information.
The pit opening is 16 feet long. With the car fully in the little garage, it allows me a bit of extra room at the end of the pit to climb down the ladder.
I am 5'-10" tall. The distance from pit floor to garage floor is 6'-2". I have found this to be perfect to work on the car above me as I stand in the pit.
The width of 48" has allowed the Lancer to drive over the pit with all tires completely on the concrete floor, yet allows full access to the undercarriage. I would recommend this exact width.
The sizes of the concrete blocks and poured concrete footing meet local building code requirements for such a structure. A pit bottom floor is optional; the one shown here is concrete just dumped into the pit and quickly smoothed with a shovel (it's pretty cobby but who cares).
Overall view:
I always cover it when not in use. I used a combo of 2x6 and 2x8 boards I had lying around and painted them the same colour as the concrete:
I used a hole saw (about 2 1/2") to drill a hole in one end board to make it easy to grab and pull straight up and out. Here is the end board removed to show detail. The edges of these boards rest on 2x4's sitting upright on top of the concrete blocks and inside the edge of the poured concrete floor:
Here is a dimensioned cross section:
This thing is really useful to have. Fabulous to work on cars. It has stayed dry and does not smell at all after a decade. There is room to store metal and stuff. I could attach a permanent ladder down the side, but just put the small 5-footer in and out as needed.
I'll say something about safety. DO NOT START OR RUN THE ENGINE WHILE WORKING DOWN THERE OR THE MECHANIC COULD QUIETLY DIE. Some harmful vapours are heavy and can sit in the bottom of the pit if there is no forced ventilation. To facilitate running the engine a car exhaust ventilator would be installed, you know, a flex pipe that attaches to the exhaust pipe and routes all exhaust gases out a hole in the garage door. I never idle the car and never have a pan of parts washing fluid like varsol down there either. That said, I've had no issue with just spraying a bit of brake cleaner.
. It is just to share interesting information.The pit opening is 16 feet long. With the car fully in the little garage, it allows me a bit of extra room at the end of the pit to climb down the ladder.
I am 5'-10" tall. The distance from pit floor to garage floor is 6'-2". I have found this to be perfect to work on the car above me as I stand in the pit.
The width of 48" has allowed the Lancer to drive over the pit with all tires completely on the concrete floor, yet allows full access to the undercarriage. I would recommend this exact width.
The sizes of the concrete blocks and poured concrete footing meet local building code requirements for such a structure. A pit bottom floor is optional; the one shown here is concrete just dumped into the pit and quickly smoothed with a shovel (it's pretty cobby but who cares).
Overall view:
I always cover it when not in use. I used a combo of 2x6 and 2x8 boards I had lying around and painted them the same colour as the concrete:
I used a hole saw (about 2 1/2") to drill a hole in one end board to make it easy to grab and pull straight up and out. Here is the end board removed to show detail. The edges of these boards rest on 2x4's sitting upright on top of the concrete blocks and inside the edge of the poured concrete floor:
Here is a dimensioned cross section:
This thing is really useful to have. Fabulous to work on cars. It has stayed dry and does not smell at all after a decade. There is room to store metal and stuff. I could attach a permanent ladder down the side, but just put the small 5-footer in and out as needed.
I'll say something about safety. DO NOT START OR RUN THE ENGINE WHILE WORKING DOWN THERE OR THE MECHANIC COULD QUIETLY DIE. Some harmful vapours are heavy and can sit in the bottom of the pit if there is no forced ventilation. To facilitate running the engine a car exhaust ventilator would be installed, you know, a flex pipe that attaches to the exhaust pipe and routes all exhaust gases out a hole in the garage door. I never idle the car and never have a pan of parts washing fluid like varsol down there either. That said, I've had no issue with just spraying a bit of brake cleaner.
Last edited by RalliartN; Aug 12, 2014 at 11:48 AM.
Aug 12, 2014, 09:07 AM
#21
Report
Did a full track day, 80F air temp, sunny, no wind, sweltering.
Seat-of-pants impression: Engine revs up-and-down "easier" at high rpm, almost like less flywheel weight.
Heat: Oil temperature at end of 20 minute session in mid-afternoon hotbox was maximum 260F. One hour highway cruise home at 70 mph, oil temp was steady 200F. This is good.
All these small horsepower gains are adding up and complementing the chassis and tires. During the day the 'A' group had to have two cars moved to the 'B' group since only 20 cars are allowed out on track at one time, and at lunch more showed up. The 'B' group was a few competition race cars, and Porsches (and McLaren), and track prepped 5L Mustangs. The little yellow RA was asked to move from 'A' to 'B' group since it was quick enough around this track and deemed not a risk to the fast guys. Its just a small thing, I know our limitations, but it was a nice compliment to where the RA is now.
Damn I need a limited slip diff!
Seat-of-pants impression: Engine revs up-and-down "easier" at high rpm, almost like less flywheel weight.
Heat: Oil temperature at end of 20 minute session in mid-afternoon hotbox was maximum 260F. One hour highway cruise home at 70 mph, oil temp was steady 200F. This is good.
All these small horsepower gains are adding up and complementing the chassis and tires. During the day the 'A' group had to have two cars moved to the 'B' group since only 20 cars are allowed out on track at one time, and at lunch more showed up. The 'B' group was a few competition race cars, and Porsches (and McLaren), and track prepped 5L Mustangs. The little yellow RA was asked to move from 'A' to 'B' group since it was quick enough around this track and deemed not a risk to the fast guys. Its just a small thing, I know our limitations, but it was a nice compliment to where the RA is now.
Damn I need a limited slip diff!
Aug 12, 2014, 11:45 AM
#23
Not sure it matters much which kind, just have to lock the wheels somehow. Probably Ziggy's is okay. I'm loathe to pull apart my original tranny though, its really sweet shifting. Woudn't mind investigating the cost of another tranny we can slot an LSD into, then just install that extra tranny. Any leads?
Last edited by RalliartN; Aug 12, 2014 at 11:49 AM.
Aug 12, 2014, 12:00 PM
#24
Not sure it matters much which kind, just have to lock the wheels somehow. Probably Ziggy's is okay. I'm loathe to pull apart my original tranny though, its really sweet shifting. Woudn't mind investigating the cost of another tranny we can slot an LSD into, then just install that extra tranny. Any leads?
I have 2 transmissions one's on the car, and one's in pieces...if we can get a hold of some of this stuff, I could build a complete spare transmission...
limiting factors are; 1. the VIN matching tranny case ( the one with holes in it), I would like back on my car with the Quaife installed, with rebuilt shafts (I roasted another 3rd gear synchro)...2. Geres needs an output shaft, so at some point we will swap, and rebuild his. also, I paid a premium for the ****ing thing, so I would need to recover some funds, and the cost of spare tranny, plus rebuild, you may as well drop a full price Quaife in your beautifully stock transmission, and forget the rest.
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Aug 12, 2014 at 12:03 PM.
Aug 13, 2014, 12:02 PM
#25
Did a full track day, 80F air temp, sunny, no wind, sweltering.
Seat-of-pants impression: Engine revs up-and-down "easier" at high rpm, almost like less flywheel weight.
Heat: Oil temperature at end of 20 minute session in mid-afternoon hotbox was maximum 260F. One hour highway cruise home at 70 mph, oil temp was steady 200F. This is good.
All these small horsepower gains are adding up and complementing the chassis and tires. During the day the 'A' group had to have two cars moved to the 'B' group since only 20 cars are allowed out on track at one time, and at lunch more showed up. The 'B' group was a few competition race cars, and Porsches (and McLaren), and track prepped 5L Mustangs. The little yellow RA was asked to move from 'A' to 'B' group since it was quick enough around this track and deemed not a risk to the fast guys. Its just a small thing, I know our limitations, but it was a nice compliment to where the RA is now.
Damn I need a limited slip diff!
Seat-of-pants impression: Engine revs up-and-down "easier" at high rpm, almost like less flywheel weight.
Heat: Oil temperature at end of 20 minute session in mid-afternoon hotbox was maximum 260F. One hour highway cruise home at 70 mph, oil temp was steady 200F. This is good.
All these small horsepower gains are adding up and complementing the chassis and tires. During the day the 'A' group had to have two cars moved to the 'B' group since only 20 cars are allowed out on track at one time, and at lunch more showed up. The 'B' group was a few competition race cars, and Porsches (and McLaren), and track prepped 5L Mustangs. The little yellow RA was asked to move from 'A' to 'B' group since it was quick enough around this track and deemed not a risk to the fast guys. Its just a small thing, I know our limitations, but it was a nice compliment to where the RA is now.
Damn I need a limited slip diff!
Aug 14, 2014, 06:50 AM
#26
Just email sales@crank-scrapers.com
or phone 727 808 8602
Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scrapers are a family business and respond personally. Ask for price and delivery for the Mitsu 4g69 scraper set, and if need be mention this is the one just developed. As for price, I dunno; I see the evo set is under $100, but again, they will quote. Keep us posted!
p.s. another thing thats happened is the car is eerily quiet when cruising normally along the road. I haven't done anything else except that scraper. Very weird. Crans, check it out when I visit.
or phone 727 808 8602
Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scrapers are a family business and respond personally. Ask for price and delivery for the Mitsu 4g69 scraper set, and if need be mention this is the one just developed. As for price, I dunno; I see the evo set is under $100, but again, they will quote. Keep us posted!
p.s. another thing thats happened is the car is eerily quiet when cruising normally along the road. I haven't done anything else except that scraper. Very weird. Crans, check it out when I visit.
Last edited by RalliartN; Aug 14, 2014 at 06:52 AM.
Apr 17, 2015, 08:52 PM
#30
Just wanted to say I just installed the crank scrapers. I guess they went back and revisited the design because I barely had to grind anything. Everything cleared but I did grind the lowest portion of the main scraper just a hair because the bolts on the con rods were a little closer than I was comfortable with. But I got them both installed with very little issue! Excellent quality as well.