Suspension/Tires Review
Mar 29, 2007, 08:28 PM
#33
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These tires are great! I can do 80 in pouring rain and Im still holding onto the road with great ease. Plus I can get 40,000 miles out of them (better than my old nankangs which got me about 18000 miles). They handle great in dry weather too. These are great tires and come to me highly recommended if you want a long lasting tire that handles great in both rain and dry.
Apr 18, 2007, 12:11 PM
#34
Kuhmo Asx
just replaced the stock goodyears with these. they were worn out really bad. i really cant tell if there is any difference in performance. question tho- when u get new tires mounted and balanced, do u need an allignment? the guys at the shop kept telling me i needed one but i felt as if they were just tying to take my money.
Apr 23, 2007, 09:32 PM
#38
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falken rt-615
im done exams so figured i'd contribute since i have nothing to do..
excellent tire for the money
excellent in the dry
decent in the wet.
don't even try these in the snow or winter.
try and avoid large puddles.
rating is 200/A/A
GREAT tire for the track...
if you track or autox with these tires, expect to change tires the following season..if you go easy on them they can last up to 20k.
excellent tire for the money
excellent in the dry
decent in the wet.
don't even try these in the snow or winter.
try and avoid large puddles.
rating is 200/A/A
GREAT tire for the track...
if you track or autox with these tires, expect to change tires the following season..if you go easy on them they can last up to 20k.
May 1, 2007, 05:47 AM
#39
KSport CMT-KP10
Product: http://www.ksportusa.com/products/kontrolpro.html
Purchased from UltraRev, Inc.; shipped direct from KSport in AZ. 3 week delivery time.
Install (easy to medium difficulty):
If you are a do-it-yourselfer like I am.....these are a relatively easy install with the right tools and someone to give you a hand.
Tools I needed: Impact wrench, air compressor, various wrench and socket sizes (metric), jack and jack stands, camber gauge and toe plates (only needed if you do your own alignment), allen wrench (forget which size), tape measure, dremel, zip ties.
INSTALL NOTES -
* Used spring compressors on the rears only....not needed for the front.
* Rears are not height adjustable. The spring perch is adjustable.....which could adjust the height, but not recommended because it will shorten the travel of the strut. Had to drop the lower control arm to get the stock rear assembly out.
* Needed to cut the brake line and speed sensor line bracket from the front. The K Sports come with parts that you can fashion a new bracket and attach to the new coilover. I zip tied the speed sensor line to the brake line.....no issues.
* Make sure that the fronts match height-wise. Also make sure that spring perches are the same height on both sides (using the tape measure).
First Impressions
If you are one that likes comfort in your ride......these are NOT for you.
Very stiff, very responsive. The Car feels like it wants to turn now and does not fight it. Feel every bump on the road now.....EVERY bump.
Camber adjustment (in the front only) is great (get yourself a camber gauge if you plan on changing this often). Had the camber cranked to the max at an autocross, and NO UNDERSTEER ISSUES (or rubbing on stock size rims and tires). In fact....had to hang on to the rear end because the car was rotating so well (note---I also have the RRM sway bar/perches and RRM tie bar), and had to recover from a short drift in the autocross (unintentional).....yes, a drift in a FWD car. I was as surprised doing it as you are reading it. Camber at zero is also fine....understeer is basically gone.
Damping adjustment is also nice. I can feel a difference between "full stiff" and "full soft"....but it is very, very hard to notice unless you are paying attention because of the high spring rates these come with.
Overall Impression so far
These are not a bad option at all for what is out there. Adjustability is a big plus, and a key reason why I got these (also cost was good....$780). Easy to install, easy to adjust.....handling is improved greatly. Body roll is almost gone.....YOUR body rolls, not the car's!
-If you are serious about a great handling car and compete, I do recommend these.
-If you are just wanting to lower your car and don't compete, these may be overkill for you.
So far these are all I hoped they would be. I give them a 8 out of 10 so far..
EDIT:
After a couple of months, I have had intermittent problems with the top locknut on the front struts backing off causing a clunking noise. Can tighten down, but they back off again a couple days later. Tighten too much, the mount binds, causing the springs to boing because the pillowball mount is too snug. KSport customer service "tech line" is a joke. I know more about the dam things than they do. Rating now an 8
EDIT #2:
I think I have solved the issue with the front coilovers. Seems that the spring perches (lower) were not tight enough (compressing the spring to the point where it is tight). Doing this, and tightening the top bolt seemed to solve the issue. The pillowball mounts now work correctly. Let's see if they stay that way.
Purchased from UltraRev, Inc.; shipped direct from KSport in AZ. 3 week delivery time.
Install (easy to medium difficulty):
If you are a do-it-yourselfer like I am.....these are a relatively easy install with the right tools and someone to give you a hand.
Tools I needed: Impact wrench, air compressor, various wrench and socket sizes (metric), jack and jack stands, camber gauge and toe plates (only needed if you do your own alignment), allen wrench (forget which size), tape measure, dremel, zip ties.
INSTALL NOTES -
* Used spring compressors on the rears only....not needed for the front.
* Rears are not height adjustable. The spring perch is adjustable.....which could adjust the height, but not recommended because it will shorten the travel of the strut. Had to drop the lower control arm to get the stock rear assembly out.
* Needed to cut the brake line and speed sensor line bracket from the front. The K Sports come with parts that you can fashion a new bracket and attach to the new coilover. I zip tied the speed sensor line to the brake line.....no issues.
* Make sure that the fronts match height-wise. Also make sure that spring perches are the same height on both sides (using the tape measure).
First Impressions
If you are one that likes comfort in your ride......these are NOT for you.
Very stiff, very responsive. The Car feels like it wants to turn now and does not fight it. Feel every bump on the road now.....EVERY bump.
Camber adjustment (in the front only) is great (get yourself a camber gauge if you plan on changing this often). Had the camber cranked to the max at an autocross, and NO UNDERSTEER ISSUES (or rubbing on stock size rims and tires). In fact....had to hang on to the rear end because the car was rotating so well (note---I also have the RRM sway bar/perches and RRM tie bar), and had to recover from a short drift in the autocross (unintentional).....yes, a drift in a FWD car. I was as surprised doing it as you are reading it. Camber at zero is also fine....understeer is basically gone.
Damping adjustment is also nice. I can feel a difference between "full stiff" and "full soft"....but it is very, very hard to notice unless you are paying attention because of the high spring rates these come with.
Overall Impression so far
These are not a bad option at all for what is out there. Adjustability is a big plus, and a key reason why I got these (also cost was good....$780). Easy to install, easy to adjust.....handling is improved greatly. Body roll is almost gone.....YOUR body rolls, not the car's!
-If you are serious about a great handling car and compete, I do recommend these.
-If you are just wanting to lower your car and don't compete, these may be overkill for you.
So far these are all I hoped they would be. I give them a 8 out of 10 so far..
EDIT:
After a couple of months, I have had intermittent problems with the top locknut on the front struts backing off causing a clunking noise. Can tighten down, but they back off again a couple days later. Tighten too much, the mount binds, causing the springs to boing because the pillowball mount is too snug. KSport customer service "tech line" is a joke. I know more about the dam things than they do. Rating now an 8
EDIT #2:
I think I have solved the issue with the front coilovers. Seems that the spring perches (lower) were not tight enough (compressing the spring to the point where it is tight). Doing this, and tightening the top bolt seemed to solve the issue. The pillowball mounts now work correctly. Let's see if they stay that way.
Last edited by Eclipse2Lancer; Jul 27, 2007 at 02:55 PM.
Jun 1, 2007, 09:01 AM
#40
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General Exclaim UHP
First and foremost they are cheap. And considering what they cost they are decent. On tirerack, they were rated the # 1 High Perf tire by users, but that mostly reflects the price.
They are decently sticky all around, in the dry and wet, and they have good hydroplane resistance. Push them real hard though and the sidewalls will roll, this also gives a bit of squishyness in the steering and doesn't inspire a lot of confidence.
Comfort wise, they are actually pretty close to the stock ride despite being a 215/40 17. Turns out soft sidewalls are good for something. They are a little on the noisy side, but nothing real annoying.
Overall, I probably wouldn't buy these again.
I hope this helps, I found when tire shopping it was hard to get a straight forward review of what they were like.
They are decently sticky all around, in the dry and wet, and they have good hydroplane resistance. Push them real hard though and the sidewalls will roll, this also gives a bit of squishyness in the steering and doesn't inspire a lot of confidence.
Comfort wise, they are actually pretty close to the stock ride despite being a 215/40 17. Turns out soft sidewalls are good for something. They are a little on the noisy side, but nothing real annoying.
Overall, I probably wouldn't buy these again.
I hope this helps, I found when tire shopping it was hard to get a straight forward review of what they were like.
Jun 1, 2007, 09:08 AM
#41
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Falken Ziex 512
I just replaced these, they wore out prematurely b/c of a failure in my rear control arm bushings. Size was 215/40/17.
They had a good stick in the wet and dry, good in the rain. I'd say excellent for a tire with an all season rating, but definitely no good for the snow. But if you are like me and live in an area where the weather is a little unpredictable (3 degrees at the end of May, WTF?) then they are awesome.
The sidewall was real stiff, turn in was sweet, but the ride was harsh. Passengers often complained (I loved it) even though its a bone stock suspension.
Overall I'd buy these again, and I will likely go back to these when my General's are shot.
They had a good stick in the wet and dry, good in the rain. I'd say excellent for a tire with an all season rating, but definitely no good for the snow. But if you are like me and live in an area where the weather is a little unpredictable (3 degrees at the end of May, WTF?) then they are awesome.
The sidewall was real stiff, turn in was sweet, but the ride was harsh. Passengers often complained (I loved it) even though its a bone stock suspension.
Overall I'd buy these again, and I will likely go back to these when my General's are shot.
Jun 2, 2007, 10:16 PM
#42
Progress springs
just installed them and i gotta say i like them alot. theres no more gap between the wheels and the ride is almost the same as stock. everyone keeps saying that aftermarket springs bring a much bumpier ride but i cant really feel a difference. defnitely worth the money.
Jun 19, 2007, 04:09 PM
#43
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Swift Sport Mach Springs
First of all there are not a lot of ralliarts with these springs that I can find so here's some info for anyone interrested.
installation - I basically followed the how to for the progress springs on this forum with some reference to a good how to for evo springs on evomoto.com. Some things to look out for:
do not cut the bump stops. The swift instructions say cut the front for lancers but it refers to the base lancer chassis only.
For the rear, be sure to line up the bolts on the upper seat with the holes at the bottom of the strut as close as you can when you're re-assembling with the new springs - refer to evomoto for pics on this.
You will need a spring compressor. Canadian Tire has a program where you can borrow one for a couple of days.
I would recommend getting the special tools needed for removing and re-torquing the recessed front strut nut itself. Otherwise, the only way you can remove it is with an air gun but mitsubishi warns against this. Also it will be easier to estimate the torque upon retightening.
ride height - After a week of driving, the back has settled down a bit from when it was first taken off the jacks, the front has remained the same. I took pretty precise measuremnets before and after keeping all variables equal. Here's the wheel gap measurements: stock front 1 3/4" swift front 3/4" = -1" drop
stock rear 9/16" swift rear 5/8" = +1/16"
Although not the stated drop, I am very happy with the final appearance. They state .6 front and .2 rear. I actually didn't want any drop in back which is essentially what I got and I wanted a bit more in the front which also is what I got. It is the most conservative drop of all the springs out there for the ralliart which hopefully translates to longer lasting shocks and closest to stock camber and caster and least harsh ride.
ride - For daily driving comfort and ride harshness, I would say it is extremely close if not equal to stock. For spirited driving, it is a big improvement. I took it to its limits (or at least mine) to test for rubbing or bottoming out and I could not make it do either. Also, there has been no clunks or squeeks. In the process, I was very impressed with how it felt in the turns. Most noticeably was the reduced body roll. The car felt much more stable.
So if you want the best combination of ride comfort and performance and a high quality spring, the Swifts are for you.
installation - I basically followed the how to for the progress springs on this forum with some reference to a good how to for evo springs on evomoto.com. Some things to look out for:
do not cut the bump stops. The swift instructions say cut the front for lancers but it refers to the base lancer chassis only.
For the rear, be sure to line up the bolts on the upper seat with the holes at the bottom of the strut as close as you can when you're re-assembling with the new springs - refer to evomoto for pics on this.
You will need a spring compressor. Canadian Tire has a program where you can borrow one for a couple of days.
I would recommend getting the special tools needed for removing and re-torquing the recessed front strut nut itself. Otherwise, the only way you can remove it is with an air gun but mitsubishi warns against this. Also it will be easier to estimate the torque upon retightening.
ride height - After a week of driving, the back has settled down a bit from when it was first taken off the jacks, the front has remained the same. I took pretty precise measuremnets before and after keeping all variables equal. Here's the wheel gap measurements: stock front 1 3/4" swift front 3/4" = -1" drop
stock rear 9/16" swift rear 5/8" = +1/16"
Although not the stated drop, I am very happy with the final appearance. They state .6 front and .2 rear. I actually didn't want any drop in back which is essentially what I got and I wanted a bit more in the front which also is what I got. It is the most conservative drop of all the springs out there for the ralliart which hopefully translates to longer lasting shocks and closest to stock camber and caster and least harsh ride.
ride - For daily driving comfort and ride harshness, I would say it is extremely close if not equal to stock. For spirited driving, it is a big improvement. I took it to its limits (or at least mine) to test for rubbing or bottoming out and I could not make it do either. Also, there has been no clunks or squeeks. In the process, I was very impressed with how it felt in the turns. Most noticeably was the reduced body roll. The car felt much more stable.
So if you want the best combination of ride comfort and performance and a high quality spring, the Swifts are for you.
Last edited by amax; Jun 19, 2007 at 04:23 PM.
Jun 29, 2007, 03:50 PM
#44
BFG KDW-2..........nice I love the grippppp, and the grippppp, only downside is that they throw rocks when I go in gravel or semi pavement......I thought something had fallen off of the car when I went through a gravel section of a road nearby.....love them though....
Jul 8, 2007, 06:34 AM
#45
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BFG Gforce KDW2 T/A 215/40/17
BFG KDW-2..........nice I love the grippppp, and the grippppp, only downside is that they throw rocks when I go in gravel or semi pavement......I thought something had fallen off of the car when I went through a gravel section of a road nearby.....love them though....
+1 on the sticky tire thing
just got these on last week. I have been dating my gf for (4yrs) longer than I have owned my car (2yrs,) this is the fifth set of tires (including my new winter tires on my 16's) in the 52k miles I have on the car, and I have driven the same way since we met. the other day we were getting ready to get on the highway in the same manner we have done countless times before (the kdw's aren't broken in yet BTW) but this time she asked me what I was doing because I never even let off the throttle. Nothing I do in the car surprises her anymore, and she thought I was going straight. I think that says it all
EDIT:
i have now broken these in, and even gotten to use them a little. I am still very impressed with the dry traction, and what rain? they act like it's dry when it's pouring. These are now "my tire" for good. +1 to BFG
Last edited by DangerousDan; Aug 1, 2007 at 07:08 AM.