Krisko

iTrader: (3)

Hello,

For those of you who remember, about 3 years ago I use to drive a 2010 Ralliart that was on 93 octane and E85 with an Evo X turbo. My chart is here:

http://www.cobbtuning.com/Dyno-Database-s/70119.htm

And here are some of the 1/8 drag races, in 2 of the videos I lost. Against the Skyline was due to a bad launch and he ran upgraded turbos, so there was no way for me to catch up to him, and against the White WRX, that's when my injectors started to kick the bucket and wouldn't go over 5k RPM, meaning I was forced to granny shift at 3-4k RPM if I wanted to get any additional power. However, I should have won that race had it not been for the injectors, but it's all good. I had this issue during that entire day, you'll notice this based on the videos that were uploaded two weeks later than the first ones in the link. You'll notice during the video there are popping sounds; that's my car, due to improper manual shifting (or the injectors, no sure), but once I corrected it, I kinda just take off ahead of everyone. My best launch was the video against the Genesis 3.8L.

https://www.youtube.com/user/Onikt/videos

For those of you wondering about why I no longer have this car and why I did my change to the other vehicles, this thread is to tell you why so you have an idea what to look out for if you plan on doing certain modifications or car changes. Now lets start with the Ralliart.

- Ralliart

I loved the SST and this car in general. I opened a thread 3 years ago called "Beast Mode Project" due to the fact I had planned on doing a motor, tranny and turbo upgrade and wanted to hit high or low 10's drag racing in this car. However, I did run into some issues. This all began happening around 30k miles of owning the car. Also, the car was driven in Manual Sport mode all while I owned it to help longevity of its life expectancy.

Mod list:
EvoX turbo
DW 850cc injectors
Walbro 255
Nesei UICP
OEM EvoX LICP
Ultimate Racing CBE
COBB Tuning High Flow Cat and Downpipe
EvoX OEM FMIC - painted black (done by previous owner)
Cobb SRI and turbo inlet
Cobb BPV
Swift Sport Springs
FQ400 Wet Carbon Fiber hood
Evo 9 Wing
RPF-1 17x8.5 and EvoX GSR OEM wheels later (since the brakes aren't big, this gives room for a smaller and lighter wheel).

On E85, this car was a blast out of this world. With it I ran an 11.8 in a 1/4 mile (not sure what the elevation is here and I can't remember the exact nitto tires). I did have alot of random slippage in 1st gear even while on just the regular Stage 2 Ralliart turbo. Keeping the stock hood is a much better idea since the EvoX hood that comes on these are already lighter and Carbon Fiber is just a pain to take care of, especially if your job requires you to park outside and not in a parking garbage while sitting in 110-120 degree weather. Parts are a lot less expensive than the EvoX for similar parts that's for sure. Anyways, the reason for my trade in of the Ralliart to the GSR was one thing. The injectors. Turns out at that time (not sure if the results are the same til this day), but DW injectors have a high fail rate for the 4B11T. It was to a point that Cobb recommended against putting them in cars anymore that they worked on. After 4 months with these injectors, the 4th one failed. I was getting 5mpg and with the way the fuel was pumping it seriously effected shifting with the SST, to the point that after I got ID1000 injectors, the transmission had been throwing a serious CEL and code in the Cobb Accessport. I did run both 93 and E85 and not just E85 all the time. Anyways, after changing to the ID 1000cc and a tune, the transmission lost it's luster, and needed to be replaced. That's my personal experience with it. It was either get a new tranny or buy a new car. During the beginning of the injectors, everything was okay. Other recommendations, avoid potholes. I bent my control arm with ease, $600 fix you don't want to spend

Also it was advised to me by Cobb the Ralliart tranny is rather weaker than the SE/MR, and I noticed it during my change. (explained below in SE)

GSR:

Cobb ICP
Cobb Turbo inlet and SRI
ETS Quiet v2 TBE
Cobb Downpipe
AMS Testpipe (defeats the purpose in having a quiet exhaust)


The handling is superb compared to the Ralliart, yet really aggressive. It's to the point where it can be rather unbearable compared to the Ralliart. Dents seemed to show a little more easier on it's lightweight aluminum body from random daily driving debris or kick up, so you kinda have to stay pretty far behind cars, or at least that's what I recommend. Mudflaps are kinda mandatory in my opinion if you want to save your fenders, sideskirts and quarter panel from kick up. Be prepared for that new set of tires after 15k miles, the tires that come on these dont last long. And if you don't rotate these OEM tires every 2500 miles, you'll end up needing a new set by 10k miles. Crazy good sticky tires, just don't expect to enjoy them for an entire year. As stated above, I have the ETS Quiet TBE, sadly, it actually isn't quiet since I'm running a testpipe instead of a Highflow Cat. Is there a difference in HP between these two items, yes, but minimum on a stock turbo but are a little more noticeable on an aftermarket turbo. Do I think a testpipe is worth the crazy highway drone you get, no. Even with the quiet TBE the testpipe will render the quietness you should get as non-existent. For some reason with the Cobb Stage 2 and 3 this car got constant CEL stating something was wrong with the MAF sensor, but the dealership said it was fine. I'm not sure as to why this happened. Also, a personal lesson I learned, don't let your car sit for long periods of time near a wooded area. I let the car sit for about 3-4 days under a car port and rodents had their way with the brake relay cable that leads to the ECU. Completely chewed in half. My car had a constant brake light ON every time I entered the car. It was an $800 fix because they have to replace everything. This car comes with launch control which was awesome. I had this car for 20k miles and it had no other main issues. Just know that it is no where near a comfortable ride with the oem springs and shocks.

This car used the Stage 3 map from Cobb.

SE:

Cobb ICP
Cobb Turbo inlet and SRI
ETS Quiet v2 TBE
Cobb Downpipe
AMS Testpipe
Cobb 1000cc injectors
Walbro 255

The reason I switched to this one was because I had a newborn daughter and my girlfriend didn't thing the 5th gear highway drone of the GSR was a good idea for the baby and that a 6speed would be ideal if I wanted to have an Evo still. Sadly, we later realized she loves the drone of the exhaust regardless any gear and it helps her go to sleep really fast

The SST in this dominates the one in the Ralliart. No noticeable slippage and the Super Sport mode grips the clutch discs even harder, which ofcourse helps with longevity. Also, the gripping power of Super Sport makes it feel as if you're shifting in an actual manual, that's just how noticeable it is. For those of you that don't know the difference between the SE and the MR, they are the GSR wheels instead of the BBS wheels, comes with the lip spoiler like most MR, the fender vents aren't the same color as the rest of the car and are just black like the GSR, no automatic rain sensoring wipers and no leather seats or sunroof. The car does "feel lighter" compared to when I road in someones else's who had the MR Touring package with similar power to what I have now. This car also comes with launch control, which is activated by turning off the ASC, putting the car in Super Sport, holding down the brake followed by flooring the gas petal, in which the car's will rev at 5.5k RPM consistently and take off pretty aggressively. It's a lot easier than the GSR launch control, since the rev system bounces off 5.5k and if you don't time it right, it'll kinda bog the launch, or at least that's what it did to me on several tries. Anyways, this car drives WAY smoother and less aggressive than the GSR due to its Bilstein Shocks. I found out that the red springs that come in the SE/MR are the exact same ones in the GSR expect they are just painted red for cosmetic purposes. As of now, this car is tuned for 93 octane and E85. 93 octane is about 320whp/340wtq while E85 is about 370whp/390wtq on a mustang dyno. Pretty quick, but I haven't taken it out to a track or drag strip yet. Still haven't come across any slippage issues of any sort. Car is daily driven in Super Sport Manual mode.

If you have questions I didn't touch up on, please ask. I decided to put this hear for people who wanted to know difference in experiences of the EvoX lineup.

danike

Great write-up and review! I have a 2009 RA which I drive very conservatively. Can you explain how/why you drive it in Sport Manual mode to make it last longer. I am interested in trying this if it's "healthier". Thanks!

mRVRsport

Informative write up and appreciate you sharing your personal take on the individual models.
I'm not an EVO owner but new to Mitsu vehicles and I'm definitely learning more about the capabilities potential.
Thank you.

Sub'd

turbotaloon95

iTrader: (7)

Good information here! Thanks for providing this. I have been contemplating picking up a used ralliart as my daily driver either this year or next. My current daily is an '03 evo 8 which is awesome to drive, but I want to start making it more race car oriented.

What I want to know from you (if you don't mind) is roughly how much you invested in the ralliart in power adders? Like the evox turbo, ic pipes, exhaust, tune, etc. If I do go down this road I would most likely want to add some extra power, but nothing crazy as I won't be racing it. Just driving spiritedly!

Jay10Ralliart

iTrader: (4)

You can always go the CBRD Rad turbo route as well instead of the Evo X turbo. Im running the Rad Lite and CBRD is working on the Rad Full turbo as we speak. They are also building a manifold to run with this turbo. Good thing about this turbo is it is based on the Ralliart turbo so labor is a piece of cake to switch to this turbo. You can see my hp and tq numbers in my signature but Ill price out my mods so you can see what you would be working with. I was tuned by Boostin Performance and when it was done Super Sport and launch control were added to my car so it is possible to have these on the Ralliart not just the Evo!

Rad Lite turbo $700
Intercooler and piping $ 1200
Intake $200
Boost Control Solenoid $100
High Flow Cat $300
Downpipe $ 300]
Single Exit Exhaust $ 700
Tunes (2) at around $500 each

Krisko

iTrader: (3)

Normal mode allow the clutches to slip fairly easily for comfort. The pro is the comfort, the con is the slippage. This means you're putting more wear on the clutches which is a bad thing. Sport mode grabs the clutches about 15% harder, Super-Sport is about 30% better grabbing over Normal mode, which is what you want. You want no slippage at all. Pretty much just put the car in manual mode Super-Sport and gear or paddle shift at about 3-4k RPM or what you feel is appropriate for the type of driving you're doing (casual, WOT, etc). I personally always turn off ASC since it decreases power.

The RAD Turbo for ralliarts is good, but there is one thing to keep in mind. Your top end will not be strong as an Evo X twin scroll turbo theoretically. If you've ever seen a ralliart turbo next to an Evo X turbo, the ralliart turbine is about the same width as the bottom of a dixie cup. Plus you'll have to either get someone else's Ralliart turbo and ship it to CBRD or take the one you have currently out of your daily driver, which means serious down time, and it would suck if you had no other vehicle to drive. I think the RAD turbo is cool, but I still find the Evo X turbo to be more superior and a better investment. The worst I've went through with the Evo X installation was getting all of the gaskets and oil lines for the Evo X turbo, in which I had to get it through my dealership and it took a week to come in. The down time at Cobb tuning was 1 1/2 days, that included labor and duel tune for 93 octane and E85. If a RAD turbo is capable of getting you in the 11 second club or near it, then I'd say that would be a better idea if it hadn't been for the downtime of sending your daily driver turbo in to CBRD. Plus, that RAD Full has been in the works for almost 3 years because it wasn't seen as worth doing due to minimum power gains over the RAD lite. I believe the differences were a titanium wheel, not sure what it is now. Keep in mind the Ralliart is lighter than the EvoX, so the hp to weight ratio is more in your favor as well.

Jay10Ralliart

iTrader: (4)

Good points but I wanna make things clear on my part. First thing everyone needs to know is that I bought the turbo off the shelf through CBRD at a discounted price so I didnt have to remove my turbo and send it it. If anyone knows anything about a Ralliart they should know the turbo is small but being able to push out over 300+ whp is perfectly good for most people for a daily driver. Yes the Evo x turbo has better top end but you'll have better low end take off with the Rad Lite. I didnt have to invest in any other parts either like you'll need with the Evo X turbo and if youre not doing the install yourself labor on Rad Lite is less. Plain and simple, I was in No way interested in buying someones used turbo online and without knowing anything about how it was treated was I going to install it on my car. The Rad Lite turbo is basically the Ralliart turbo with built internals and rebuilt by a very reputable shop. Either way I think anyone would be happy with the results.