I'm a little worried
#1
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I'm a little worried
Hi everyone completely new to the forum world and the ralliart world to be quite honest. I bought my 2010 ralliart about a month ago. It the automatic with paddle shifters and the oprion to manually shift it on the stick as well. It just seems like it has to hit a certain rpm before the car will really take when I am in first gear. It revs really high and then it takes. Sorry if this is a really stupid question but I am concerned and I would like to figure it out before my warranty goes bad. If someone could give me some clarity that would be great!
#3
Evolving Member
Hi everyone completely new to the forum world and the ralliart world to be quite honest. I bought my 2010 ralliart about a month ago. It the automatic with paddle shifters and the oprion to manually shift it on the stick as well. It just seems like it has to hit a certain rpm before the car will really take when I am in first gear. It revs really high and then it takes. Sorry if this is a really stupid question but I am concerned and I would like to figure it out before my warranty goes bad. If someone could give me some clarity that would be great!
It would be helpful if you checked your wording. I read this and aside from the misspelling of words I have no idea what your actual question is. You need to rephrase it in a format someone else can understand what you are actually asking.
#4
Evolving Member
Also a mod list, any tunes done or work? This makes a big difference. I think I know what you are asking and I have a solution but you need to clarify your question.
#5
Even in normal auto mode, the car needs to build up the required engine speed (RPM) to generate the torque required to start moving the car. If you bought your car used, flush out the SST fluid by the dealer. Other than that, it's acting normal.
You're not going to get any useful torque at 1500 RPM or anything low like that. Usually my '14 RA will start picking up at 2300 RPM then it's golden from that point on.
You're not going to get any useful torque at 1500 RPM or anything low like that. Usually my '14 RA will start picking up at 2300 RPM then it's golden from that point on.
#6
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If you are new to driving turbo cars it will feel a lot different to a naturally aspirated car.
Stock RA won't move too fast until about 3000rpm when the turbo hits boost.
Getting a tune will help with responsiveness from a stand still.
Stock RA won't move too fast until about 3000rpm when the turbo hits boost.
Getting a tune will help with responsiveness from a stand still.
#7
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#8
#9
Evolved Member
Hi everyone completely new to the forum world and the ralliart world to be quite honest. I bought my 2010 ralliart about a month ago. It the automatic with paddle shifters and the oprion to manually shift it on the stick as well. It just seems like it has to hit a certain rpm before the car will really take when I am in first gear. It revs really high and then it takes. Sorry if this is a really stupid question but I am concerned and I would like to figure it out before my warranty goes bad. If someone could give me some clarity that would be great!
If you're sitting still, then floor the throttle, it'll sit there like a potato for a bit. Personally, I think it's unsafe for drivers unfamiliar with the SST. If they are hoping to dart out into traffic, and drive it as they would a torque-converter automatic, they'll get themselves T-boned or rear-ended.
But at light to medium throttle, it should just engage 1st and go.
#10
Evolving Member
At light throttle, moving off from being stationary, it should "engage and go" pretty much instantly.
If you're sitting still, then floor the throttle, it'll sit there like a potato for a bit. Personally, I think it's unsafe for drivers unfamiliar with the SST. If they are hoping to dart out into traffic, and drive it as they would a torque-converter automatic, they'll get themselves T-boned or rear-ended.
But at light to medium throttle, it should just engage 1st and go.
If you're sitting still, then floor the throttle, it'll sit there like a potato for a bit. Personally, I think it's unsafe for drivers unfamiliar with the SST. If they are hoping to dart out into traffic, and drive it as they would a torque-converter automatic, they'll get themselves T-boned or rear-ended.
But at light to medium throttle, it should just engage 1st and go.
#11
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My money is on the previous owner didn't do the transmission service and the filter is clogged, these are very picky, and sometimes finiky cars, take proper care of it and you'll be wayyyy better off.
As far as I know there is no way to check the fluid or filter without most of it coming out anyway and it's not a cheap maintenance either. If you take it to the dealer they can diagnose and probably end up changing the transmision fluid and filter or I would personally prefer if there is a tuner shop around that knows RAs and/or SST evos have them check it out and probably end up changing the transmission fluid and filter.
As far as I know there is no way to check the fluid or filter without most of it coming out anyway and it's not a cheap maintenance either. If you take it to the dealer they can diagnose and probably end up changing the transmision fluid and filter or I would personally prefer if there is a tuner shop around that knows RAs and/or SST evos have them check it out and probably end up changing the transmission fluid and filter.
#13
Evolving Member
My money is on the previous owner didn't do the transmission service and the filter is clogged, these are very picky, and sometimes finiky cars, take proper care of it and you'll be wayyyy better off.
As far as I know there is no way to check the fluid or filter without most of it coming out anyway and it's not a cheap maintenance either. If you take it to the dealer they can diagnose and probably end up changing the transmision fluid and filter or I would personally prefer if there is a tuner shop around that knows RAs and/or SST evos have them check it out and probably end up changing the transmission fluid and filter.
As far as I know there is no way to check the fluid or filter without most of it coming out anyway and it's not a cheap maintenance either. If you take it to the dealer they can diagnose and probably end up changing the transmision fluid and filter or I would personally prefer if there is a tuner shop around that knows RAs and/or SST evos have them check it out and probably end up changing the transmission fluid and filter.
1) The trans needs to be up to temp either after a short drive or letting it idle for 15min
2) With the engine running (hold for 20 seconds on each) go through R-P-N-D-Manual-D-N-R-P
3) Pull the check plug and fluid should come out
4) Add fluid in the filler until fluid comes out of the check plug
5) Put the check plug back in and everything back together.
#14
Evolved Member
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^ true. The check plug is partially obscured on the RA (easily accessed on the EVO X MR). You can't just use a 'straight' 8mm allen - it needs to be short / bend at 90 deg...
I tried the allen key/socket set up and could not fit it on the check plug and fit the socket wrench in there... Please post a pix of the tool set up and how you are gaining access.
OR is there a Mitsu Special Tool for the task? If so - please provide a link before I cut an 8mm allen and use a box end wrench on the cut allen key...
I tried the allen key/socket set up and could not fit it on the check plug and fit the socket wrench in there... Please post a pix of the tool set up and how you are gaining access.
OR is there a Mitsu Special Tool for the task? If so - please provide a link before I cut an 8mm allen and use a box end wrench on the cut allen key...
#15
Evolving Member
^ true. The check plug is partially obscured on the RA (easily accessed on the EVO X MR). You can't just use a 'straight' 8mm allen - it needs to be short / bend at 90 deg...
I tried the allen key/socket set up and could not fit it on the check plug and fit the socket wrench in there... Please post a pix of the tool set up and how you are gaining access.
OR is there a Mitsu Special Tool for the task? If so - please provide a link before I cut an 8mm allen and use a box end wrench on the cut allen key...
I tried the allen key/socket set up and could not fit it on the check plug and fit the socket wrench in there... Please post a pix of the tool set up and how you are gaining access.
OR is there a Mitsu Special Tool for the task? If so - please provide a link before I cut an 8mm allen and use a box end wrench on the cut allen key...