OpaqueSheen

Greetings! I recently purchased a 2010 Ralliart Sportback with 45k miles on it. This car replaces my old 1g DSM that finally gave up the ghost after 25 years and 140k miles (the years mostly did it in), so I'm not entirely foreign with Mitsubishi motors, nor all the pains that come with them.

It's been a couple months with this car, and am enjoying it thus far, and I intend to do some minor mods, such as swapping out the BOV, boost pill, and getting a tune(Minneapolis seems to be in a good place regarding knowledgeable shops). I may swap out the IC and turbo with evo parts, but that's a fair ways off. It runs great and has been given a clean pass by a mechanic, however they did not specialize with these cars.

But, first things first. This car hasn't ever experienced a Minnesota winter! I've already replaced all of the vital relays, and ACD pump seems okay, although I haven't actually pulled it out of the car. Besides tires, which I see there's a nice sticky for, are there any other important concerns? I'm hoping to avoid any nasty surprises once the outdoor temperatures start hitting the negatives.

Thanks!

Veronica

iTrader: (2)

The relays and tires are key (and you did them).


Me? I wait until the 'dinging' stops (3 seconds) between key on and engaging the starter (to ensure the fuel pump has built pressure).


I keep a deck pressure washer plastic bottle filled with water and alcohol to rinse the Active Center Differential pump assy. (behind the right rear wheel) to prevent corrosion.


I would recommend you pull the ACD and clean/paint it. At the very least, you should apply rtv to the seams and gaps.

OpaqueSheen

Thanks for the reply. Seems pulling my ACD pump should be one of my highest priorities, so I'll have to do that fairly soon. I'm looking into guards for the ACD pump, but can't really find clear info on if there are differences between the ralliart and the Evo... I assume the mounting fixture is the same, but the piping is different. Anyhow, it's a project to do before it starts getting ridiculously cold ridiculously fast.

Also, I've seen a few with concerns regarding painting the pump and it potentially overheating, but I can't seem to actually find any mention of it actually happening for anyone, though I assume it'd be more of a potential problem with plastidip than paint (even less so with engine paint..). I doubt this part gets particularly hot anyway.

Thanks again.

Veronica

iTrader: (2)

It only runs when needed (so when off it is cooling). It is painted - this just adds RTV sealant and another coat. The exposed joints between the motor and the pump let moisture in and it corrodes from the inside


Mine (sealed and painted) has not over-heated that I am aware of. But there is no temp sensor that I am aware of...


Now, you also do have a 100K mile warranty extension for the ACD if you choose not to paint (The dealer would probably deny warranty work.). This might be your best bet if you do not put many miles on it and stay below 100K for a few years... OR you paint now (assuming you are still relatively corrosion-free). And just seal/paint the new one, eh?


When I pulled mine (110K miles) and brought to a shop to have them try to separate the pump from the body, the shop guy said: "WTH? Has this thing been underwater for years?!" So, if it looks BAAAADDD now - seal and paint won't help much...


EVO X pump is in the same place and just has extra fittings/lines for the rear diff torque vectoring.


No "guard" exists, nor would it do any good.
EVO/RA can move the pump to inside the trunk, but no one has done it for the RASB that I am aware of...