Exhaust Manifold Cracked
Dec 5, 2016, 08:23 AM
#33
It can be done! 
However, at this moment I am awaiting my buddy to weld a nut onto the stud I stripped. I am more amazed that I did manage to get one removed...
It is the only thing holding up the project...
Lessons learned:
1. Before you begin removing the manifold - loosen the turbo nuts (two each) and weld the nut onto each stud right from the get-go. Have new studs and nuts ready for install.
You could have a garage do this if needed. and then do the rest yourself. You will thank me.
2. Remove the firewall heat shield, UICP hose and strut bar for access.
3. You can access all the bottom head nuts by reaching underneath the manifold. Mind the washers, eh?
4. I had to impact "in" and then "out" to get the turbo nuts/bolts loose. The head nuts were "tight' but each one came with maybe a breaker bar and handle extension for torque.
5. If you do elect to do the 'two wrench method with two nuts locked together' to remove the studs: Remove each nut and the two washers under the nuts. re-install the nut loosely. Thread the other nut on down until a thread is protruding from the top nut."Shave" one 14mm open end wrench (using a bench grinder) to fit between the two nuts and hold it while torqueing down the top nut. Do not buy the cheap h/w store nuts (less than grade 8) which simply are not up to the task and will strip themselves. "If" you elect to use a "stud remover tool" know that it might just strip the stud and destroy your hopes and dreams and make you question each of your life-choices up to this point...
(see pix)
Note: The turbo stud nuts are M-10 Fine pitch (1.25)
However, at this moment I am awaiting my buddy to weld a nut onto the stud I stripped. I am more amazed that I did manage to get one removed...
It is the only thing holding up the project...
Lessons learned:
1. Before you begin removing the manifold - loosen the turbo nuts (two each) and weld the nut onto each stud right from the get-go. Have new studs and nuts ready for install.
You could have a garage do this if needed. and then do the rest yourself. You will thank me.2. Remove the firewall heat shield, UICP hose and strut bar for access.
3. You can access all the bottom head nuts by reaching underneath the manifold. Mind the washers, eh?
4. I had to impact "in" and then "out" to get the turbo nuts/bolts loose. The head nuts were "tight' but each one came with maybe a breaker bar and handle extension for torque.
5. If you do elect to do the 'two wrench method with two nuts locked together' to remove the studs: Remove each nut and the two washers under the nuts. re-install the nut loosely. Thread the other nut on down until a thread is protruding from the top nut."Shave" one 14mm open end wrench (using a bench grinder) to fit between the two nuts and hold it while torqueing down the top nut. Do not buy the cheap h/w store nuts (less than grade 8) which simply are not up to the task and will strip themselves. "If" you elect to use a "stud remover tool" know that it might just strip the stud and destroy your hopes and dreams and make you question each of your life-choices up to this point...
(see pix)
Note: The turbo stud nuts are M-10 Fine pitch (1.25)
Dec 7, 2016, 06:09 AM
#36
Uh, it is still in there awaiting my buddy to weld the nut...
I also learned for the install:
1. Buy four new bolts (not studs/nuts). Because of the high temps - you want new ones - to ensure they don't fail you in few years... Part number: http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse....-assembly-bolt
2. Use high temp (with copper) anti-seize to facilitate the future removal of the manifold and the resultant opportunity to curse mitsu again for poor engineering of stresses and crack propagation...
3. The washers at the turbo have a different side (think spring washer) -the 'identification hole' goes to the outside as you stack them.
I also learned for the install:
1. Buy four new bolts (not studs/nuts). Because of the high temps - you want new ones - to ensure they don't fail you in few years... Part number: http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse....-assembly-bolt
2. Use high temp (with copper) anti-seize to facilitate the future removal of the manifold and the resultant opportunity to curse mitsu again for poor engineering of stresses and crack propagation...
3. The washers at the turbo have a different side (think spring washer) -the 'identification hole' goes to the outside as you stack them.
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