The Valentine 1 (as well as other radar detectors....) is amazing. But I've always had a few qualms:
a) if i get pulled over and a cop sees it, no bueno.
b) everytime I park, I have to remove it so my car isn't broken into
c) hitting the mute switch is out of reach
d) people behind me that see I have a v1, tailgate/follow me incessantly
a) headrest stealth install
b) " "
c) install custom mute switch
d) Concealed Display unit
The headrest install does not reduce any radar detecting functionality of the V1 since radar easily travels through foam/fabric. Laser detecting capabilities are gone but there is no such thing as early notification of Laser. Also, a Laser ticket is so easily fightable that I can never imagine being convicted by one with my lawyer. So headrest install was the way to go. First we have to hardwire the v1 though...
-V1 hardwire kit
-RJ11 phone cords
1) Remove items labeled 1 and 2, panel under steering wheel
this makes it easier to find a bolt for your Ground later
2) remove the panel under the driverside dash (the panel that contains the hood opening latch). this should give you access to some fuse wires.
3) Use the Vamp-clip to splice into the Red wire shown in the picture. there should be an orange wire and green wire in the same bundle, the bundle is located to the left of the obd2 port. It will power up the Radar detector when the car is in Accessory position and turn the RD off when the car is off and the driverside door opens.
4) connect the vamp-clip to the V1 hardwire kit. connect the black wire to a ground bolt somewhere under the dash.
5) the Valentine 1 connects to the 'Main Unit' outlet in the hardwire piece and the RJ11 splitter connects into the 'Accessory Port'. Both the Mute switch and Concealed Display connect here. If you wish to use only a Mute Switch or only a Concealed Display, the RJ11 Splitter is not needed.
HEADREST Stealth Install:
-12ft RJ11 cord
1) Remove backseat middle headrest and tape off the sections as shown.
2) make incisions with the xacto knife along the inner edge, all the way around the square to be cut out.
3) heat the knife before cutting deep into the foam, it cuts through the foam with less effort. Cut about 2 inches deep so Radar detector sits as high as possible in the headrest. when you hit the metal frame, you've gone far enough.
4) connect Rj11 v1 and place unit inside headrest, make sure the orientation is correct and not backwards.
5) Fold the backseat down, there should be an opening on the back. make an incision at the bottom of the seat to route the cord through the backseat. this will retain the folding-seat-functionality without having the V1 cords move. any excess cord after wiring to the hardwire unit can be tucked away in the backseat area here.
6) route the cord along the driverside floor panels to the hardwire unit under the dash. tada.
-RJ11 phone cord
-SPST momentary switch
1) cut one end of the RJ11 cord, there should be a Black, Red, Green, and Yellow wire. Black is ground and Yellow is mute.
2) use a wire stripper to strip the black and yellow wires while taping up the red and green wires so they are not functional.
3) connect the black wire to the switch ground and yellow wire to the other contact of the switch.
4) Test to make sure the mute button works. Connect it to the RJ11 spliiter under the dash and press and hold the mute button. If the V1 unit changes modes (Advanced to Logic etc), then the button works. If it doesn't, switch the wires connected to the switch contacts (its easy to get it backwards).
5) tada, mount the switch somewhere useful. I chose the empty switch next to AWC because its near the shifter.
You could mount this a number of places. i went with inside the driverside AC unit to make the integration fully stealth. I used to have it above and exposed.
Since sometimes its hard to discern whether an X band or a K band is going off, I decided to put a piece of electrical tape over the X band indicator LED. This way, if i see a Bogey on the display without an indicator, I know it is not a threat. If i see a Bogey with an Indicator light, it HAS to be K or Ka band and a probable threat. This makes it much easier at night when only LEDs are flashing from the concealed display (the lettering next to the LED is not possible to read at night).