CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

I did some reading on the forum and I couldn't really find a detailed, no stone unturned install on how to install the whiteline rear sway bar for our car so this is what I came up with.


You will need:

• 1x Jack
• Chalks
• 3-4x Jack stands
• Ratchet set Metric/imperial
• Torque Wrench
• Ramps (optional)
• Flashlight
• Gloves x2
• Protective Eyewear x2
• A friend
• Will power
• Brain(s)
• Whiteline Rear Swaybar
• After Market End links (OEM won’t last long with the Whiteline Rear Sway Bar)
• 2009+ Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart
• Beer?

PREP

1. Find a level and safe location in which to work.

2. Engage your E-Brake so you are no fighting the movement of the rear wheels while doing this.

3. Start by Jacking up your car under the rear central jacking point such that the cars rear is a fair ways off ground. Remember you are dropping the diff 10-12 inches. Don’t forget to account for the drop of the diff plus the height of the jack at its lowest point, that matters. You don’t want to get all the way up and realize you didn’t jack the car high enough. I drove the front of my car up on ramps first before I started jacking my car up so it would be even higher and I would have more room to work. I also put a hockey puck on the Jack to provide a non-damaging surface in which the car would be jacked up on.

4. Don’t forget to chalk your wheel so the car doesn’t move. SAFETY!

5. Place jack stands under your jack points on the left and right sides of your car where you would use the POS scissor jack to change a tire such that the car is supported.

6. Unbolt the sway bar from the end links and rear sub frame sway bar brackets and bushings. You will need a 14mm rench and a metril Allan key to stop the end link from rotating when you try to loosen it.

a. Note: You have to reuse the OEM bushing brackets and bolts so set them aside so you don't lose them.

i. Torque Spec End link 29 ft-lb +/- 4
ii. Bracket bolts 23 ft-lb +/- 2

STEPS 7 and 8 are OPTIONAL Yet I RECOMMEND It
I did this as to not put any stress on the drive shaft or risk it coming out of the Transfer Case or Differential and have fluid leak out.

7. Loosen the 4 bolts on the U joint that connects the drive shaft to the differential.

a. Note: be careful not to pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case so there isn’t risk of fluid leaking out.

i. Torque Spec on 4x bolts on the U joint: 40 ft-lb +/- 4

8. Rest the drive shaft on a jack stand.

DROPING THE DIFFERENTIAL
9. From what I understand there are two ways to disconnect the rear differential from the rear sub frame.

Disconnect the rear differential from the rear subframe #1.

a. before loosening the 3 bolts that connect the differential to the rear sub frame Pump the jack up so it just lifts up the differential a few millimetres then loosen the bolts.

b. There are only three large bolts that hold the rear diff. The first bolt runs parallel to the rear differential and connects through a large rubber bushing through the middle of the rear sub frame. The other two run vertical under the differential with large washers and large rubber plates with teeth on them.

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]i. Toque SpecParallel Bolt: 81 ft-lb +/- 8
ii. Toque SpecVertical Mount Bolt x2: 52 ft-lb +/- 7

Disconnect the rear differential from the rear subframe #2

a. Unbolt the two mounting brackets on either side of the rear differential by unbolting 3 bolts from the mounting brackets on either side, 6 in total. You will also have to unbolt the bolt runs parallel to the rear differential and connects through a large rubber bushing through the middle of the rear sub frame.

ii. Torque Spec on 3x mounting bracket bolts left and right 70 ft-lb +/- 10
i. Toque SpecParallel Bolt: 81 ft-lb +/- 8


b. Once the rear differential is unbolted from both of the mounting brackets set the 6 bolts aside such that you can remember where they go (left and right sides) and rest the differential on the jack so it is supported and you can use the jack to lower the differential carefully and under control.

10. Once the rear differential is free from the mounts lower it on the jack until you've got the space required to remove the factory sway bar and install the Whiteline rear sway bar.

a. Note: you will only need to lower the differential about 10 – 12 inches



INSTALLING Your Whiteline Rear Sway Bar

1. Now that the differential is lowered enough to remove the OEM sway bar, remove the OEM sway bar by manipulating it over top of the differential and though the space you have created by droping the dif.

2. Install your Whiteline Rear Sway Bar in the same manner you removed the factory one. You have to reuse the OEM bushing brackets. Ensure that you tighten the bolts on the brackets to factory torque specs. This is a good time to put some of that Whiteline grease you got on the yellow bushings before you install them. Don't bother hooking up the end links just yet.

i. Torque Spec Bracket bolts 23 ft-lb +/- 2

3. Once your Whiteline Rear Sway Bar is installed raise your differential back up using the jack and working your way backwards from either way you disconnected the differential, either by unbolting it from the rear sub frame or unbolting it from the mounting brackets on the left and right side of the differential. Ensure that you tighten your mounting brackets to the proper factory torque spec.

3. If you disconnected the drive shaft from the rear differential retighten the 4 bolts on the U joint that connects the drive shaft to the differential and tighten them to the proper TQ spec.

a. Note: AGAIN be careful not to pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case so there isn’t risk of fluid leaking out.

i. Torque Spec 4x bolts on the U joint to rear differential: 40 ft-lb +/- 4

4. Once the differential is bolted back up do a final inspection of everything to ensure you didn’t miss anything. Once satisfied lower your cars rear end back down. If you used ramps like me back the car off the ramps as well.

4. Once the differential is bolted back in you have done your final inspection, everything is troqued to spec, and the car is lowered back to the ground reattach your end links either soft (hole to the rear of the car) medium (hole in the middle) or hard (hole closest to the front of the car). I set mine to hard. OEM End links can’t stand up to hard setting for very long until either the spherical joint is busted or you bend your end link so it is recommended that you get yourself some upgraded end links. I am going to use the EVO X Whiteline Front End links. I also know of some members using Racing Line EVO X Front Endlinks

i. Torque Spec End link bolts 29 ft-lb +/- 4

5. Drive carefully until you are used to your new set up.


I hope that his DIY is comprehensive and helps. This is something that you can definitely do at home with the right tools and technical know-how.

DISCLAIMER: Any work you do on your own car is at your own risk. I do not take any personal responsibility or any liabililty for any damages or injury that may occur during the installation of your Whiteline Rear Sway Bar. Long story short if you damage your car or get hurt its not my fault.

Happy modding.

Conway_160

iTrader: (2)

How much of a differance did you notice in handling after the install?

CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

massive difference. the bigger sway bar reduces understeer and promotes overseer bringing the car to a more neutral steering all around car. Less body roll overall and that helps out with traction and tire wear.

robyn402

iTrader: (3)

what size bar you go with?

Sinestra

nice i will need this soon i will have mine in a week or two and i was just thinking about how to do the install

daonlyillwiz

Very good write up, some install pics would have been better but non-the-less real nice write up.

CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

I have the 24mm rear.

CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

Did anyone ever try using the Whiteline Sway bar Locks 24mm type, part number KLL124. I am noticing A LOT of movement in my rear bar, up to a inch and a half of movement left and right. I especially noticed this after putting the car in a four wheel slide WITH traction control on from a dead stop. I am using Whiteline Heavy Duty EVO X Front Sway Bar End Links. I am loving the handling but not the movement in the bar...

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...sans_vehicle=1

dasmikechen

iTrader: (2)

Would anyone say the end links are NOT required if using the car as DD? Or would you say why bother doing sway bar without the end links...?

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

Option 2

crak

iTrader: (3)

If you are using it as a DD why are you getting the sway bar? Would it be for spirited driving and DD?

dasmikechen

iTrader: (2)

I take it around the track during summer test and tune AutoX days and SCCA learning days. I do like having fun on the track too

crak

iTrader: (3)

Right on! I hear its like night and day when the bars are put on too.

CanuckLancer

iTrader: (2)

I want to do the front now... that ones a little bit more involved but ill try to come up with a How To. I am also going to put in the whiteline Rear Diff bushing kit so ill put up a how to on that one as well when I get the chance. wont be for a while yet.

ah_hei

i just bought the whiteline 24mm rear sway bar, and planning to get the end link to install the same time. And this will be my very first mod to my RA. Doing it of cuz to kill the understeering. Do you guys have any suggestion or modify to go with this rear sway bar mod? so that i can do it all at once? Of cuz , not spending crazy lots of money like coilover and stuff yet.....