*Rear Diff and Transfer Case Fluid Change*
Mar 1, 2013, 04:20 PM
#17
I'm buying everything now to do this change myself.
Is the DiaQueen LSD Gear Oil used for both the LSD and Transfer Case?
I stopped by the dealer at lunch and asked them the same question and they were positive the transfer case used different oil, of course he was out of stock and he would not provide part numbers so I'm left more confused then when I first started.
Is the DiaQueen LSD Gear Oil used for both the LSD and Transfer Case?
I stopped by the dealer at lunch and asked them the same question and they were positive the transfer case used different oil, of course he was out of stock and he would not provide part numbers so I'm left more confused then when I first started.
May 12, 2013, 02:03 AM
#20
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Did you get new crush washers? If so from where? I have two Mitsu Dealerships about 45min from my house but the two times I've gone they claim to not have any in stock. I've looked online but couldn't come up with the part numbers for them.
May 14, 2013, 11:12 PM
#22
I just did mine last weekend. Here is what my transfer case and rear diff drain bolts looked like at 32k.
after cleaning off the drain bolts i screwed them back in and took them off again and noticed they still collected a lot so i flushed a couple of pumps of new fluid to flush the transfer case and lsd just to be safe i got most of the deposits out.
Also, the transfercase kept spilling out of the fill plug after only a couple of pumps, I snapped a pic of the gear/cog in the way. If you can try to place the fill hose to the left to clear it.
after cleaning off the drain bolts i screwed them back in and took them off again and noticed they still collected a lot so i flushed a couple of pumps of new fluid to flush the transfer case and lsd just to be safe i got most of the deposits out.
Also, the transfercase kept spilling out of the fill plug after only a couple of pumps, I snapped a pic of the gear/cog in the way. If you can try to place the fill hose to the left to clear it.
Jan 27, 2014, 05:49 PM
#23
beautiful!!! finally a straight answer!!! i have been to like 4 different posts, and i got extremely confused! this seems easy enough. can anyone confirm that mobil 1 gear lube ls 75w-90 can be used?
this is what confuses me, i read somewhere (also someone mention that only the evo has that, not the RA) that there are two types of fluids that go into (left/right) the differential? any comment on this? thanks
this is what confuses me, i read somewhere (also someone mention that only the evo has that, not the RA) that there are two types of fluids that go into (left/right) the differential? any comment on this? thanks
Jan 28, 2014, 02:47 PM
#24
Take a look here at this post for color diagram of the the Evo X.
We are the same accept we do not have AYC (Red) in the RA.
So we only drain and fill the Diff fluid (Yellow) in the LSD and transfer case. I would use only
LSD Fluid in both the LSD and Transfer case as recommended by most shops. Fred Beans usually has the best online price I've found.
We are the same accept we do not have AYC (Red) in the RA.
So we only drain and fill the Diff fluid (Yellow) in the LSD and transfer case. I would use only
LSD Fluid in both the LSD and Transfer case as recommended by most shops. Fred Beans usually has the best online price I've found.
Feb 5, 2014, 05:45 PM
#27
^ Veronica, would a ramp work if the car is lowered? man putting the car on 4 jack stands was intense! not to mention i had 2 jacks! jesus it was tough! lots of creaking, cracking, and warping! lol
Feb 5, 2014, 10:58 PM
#28
My car is lowered, I ended up buying a low profile jack on sale at Harbor Freight.
Use a hockey puck between the Jack Stand and car to not damage paint/finish.
Use a hockey puck between the Jack Stand and car to not damage paint/finish.
- Use E-brake
- Jack up front first using center jack point (where the under tray is cut out for it)
- Place your 2 jack stands on side jack point notches.
- Jack up the Rear using the cross member not the Diff it self.
- place your rear jack stands on the side rear jack notches.
Jul 19, 2016, 08:56 PM
#29
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2014 evo x gsr transfer case and diff
hey i have quastion i have 2014 evo x gsr with 26k miles i decided to do transfer case and rear diff service when i drained the fluids they looked kinda bad silvershish color not really bad but it wasnt clean. how did yours look?
thanks
thanks
Hey
guys, girls
So over the Christmas break I decided to change my rear diff and transfer case fluid was pretty easy thanks to the help of (Kyle 03chi) for the pointers I took a few pics of the process to make it even easier for people since there are threads but hardly any pics of the process. Once again thanks to Fredbeansparts I got a good deal on a gallon of the fluid which is more than enough to do the job times two. And I picked up a basic pump to pump the fluid in the diff and transfer case from work (autozone) on to the pics.
Fresh fluid and hand pump ready to go
REAR DIFF
Rear diff was very easy it's all right there in plain sight. I jacked up the car level on 4 jack stands so I could crawl under the entire car. Drain bolt for the rear diff is a 10mm Allen. The fill hole is a 15/16th I didn't have a open end 15/16th so I used an adjustable wrench. Open the full hole first to get air in so the fluid will drain better then open up the 10mm drain hole. Let it pour out for awhile. Then reinsert the drain bolt it's magnetic so that's cool make sure you clean it up good as you see mine was pretty dirty for 86,000 miles lol. Then pump in fluid until it comes out the fill hole it's as easy as that for the rear diff. Onto the transfer case!
TRANSFERCASE
Transfer case was a little harder but not really just took more time. To make it easy I removed the plastic undertray from the car. Most of the time went there since mine is help together with a few factory clips and the rest zip ties haha. When it's off if you look on the passenger side front of the car and fallow the cv axel it will run into the transfer case. The fill hole is a 17mm and it's uptop facing up by the passenger side cv axle I tied to get the best pic I could of it. There's plenty of room to get even a braker bar in there to loosen the bolt. The drain plug is again a 15/16th magnetic plug. I'm glad Mitsubishi did this with the magnetic plugs as you can see they really help catch extra metal shavings. Drain until all is out then replace the drain plug 15/16th and pump in fluid until it comes up the fill hole 17mm replace the full bolt and put back your undertray wala all done. It's as simple as that. Hope this helps you all!
guys, girls
So over the Christmas break I decided to change my rear diff and transfer case fluid was pretty easy thanks to the help of (Kyle 03chi) for the pointers I took a few pics of the process to make it even easier for people since there are threads but hardly any pics of the process. Once again thanks to Fredbeansparts I got a good deal on a gallon of the fluid which is more than enough to do the job times two. And I picked up a basic pump to pump the fluid in the diff and transfer case from work (autozone) on to the pics.
Fresh fluid and hand pump ready to go
REAR DIFF
Rear diff was very easy it's all right there in plain sight. I jacked up the car level on 4 jack stands so I could crawl under the entire car. Drain bolt for the rear diff is a 10mm Allen. The fill hole is a 15/16th I didn't have a open end 15/16th so I used an adjustable wrench. Open the full hole first to get air in so the fluid will drain better then open up the 10mm drain hole. Let it pour out for awhile. Then reinsert the drain bolt it's magnetic so that's cool make sure you clean it up good as you see mine was pretty dirty for 86,000 miles lol. Then pump in fluid until it comes out the fill hole it's as easy as that for the rear diff. Onto the transfer case!
TRANSFERCASE
Transfer case was a little harder but not really just took more time. To make it easy I removed the plastic undertray from the car. Most of the time went there since mine is help together with a few factory clips and the rest zip ties haha. When it's off if you look on the passenger side front of the car and fallow the cv axel it will run into the transfer case. The fill hole is a 17mm and it's uptop facing up by the passenger side cv axle I tied to get the best pic I could of it. There's plenty of room to get even a braker bar in there to loosen the bolt. The drain plug is again a 15/16th magnetic plug. I'm glad Mitsubishi did this with the magnetic plugs as you can see they really help catch extra metal shavings. Drain until all is out then replace the drain plug 15/16th and pump in fluid until it comes up the fill hole 17mm replace the full bolt and put back your undertray wala all done. It's as simple as that. Hope this helps you all!
Jul 20, 2016, 10:31 AM
#30
For the EVO X GSR you have one step to complete on the rear diff. You have Diaqueen SST Fluid to change on the forward portion of the diff. This is the S-AWC difference to our Ralliarts...
If you need more info - the EVO X sub forum would have it.
If you need more info - the EVO X sub forum would have it.
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