AMS introduces Carbon Fiber Driveshafts
#77
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errr this help guys !!! carbon fibre wheels
we have the first evo set in the world ready for testing . hope to get AMS martin /eric a set over for testing very soon .
dave aka EVO400
we have the first evo set in the world ready for testing . hope to get AMS martin /eric a set over for testing very soon .
dave aka EVO400
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Originally Posted by FlyNavy
Any street driving impressions? Or is this a relatively transparent piece of weightsavings/insurance? I want one BADLY.
I thought someone posted the weight already(?)...
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Originally Posted by evo400
OPPS no pic
If you guys don't stop making stuff like this, I'm never going to have enough money to buy me a Porsche.
Love more pics if possible (says the man who failed to post any picture whatsoever).
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Good write up on the install. I was wondering why the weight savings was smaller than I expected, now knowing that only the rear two sections are replaced and leaving the front. We need to get someone to make a short one to replace that one and we will need to keep at least one pivot for engine and rear diff movement. Lets make this completely unaffordable!
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Okay, I'm going to get an award for lameness here, but I installed it today and had a mind to take photos but really I had to do it with another bloke (who was going to do it got a bit much for one man...) so spent all my time doing it and didn't get the chance to take any pics. By the time it was done, it was dark and the camera I had basically didn't work trying to take pics mainly black things in low light... sorry...
Anyway, from memory, this is how we did it - all important stuff is in bold. The rest is mainly noise...
The important thing, the _VERY_ important thing, is to remember that the evo's drive shaft is probably the longest in the world and has three sections. The CF shaft only replaces the rear two so the first section will not be replaced.
0.) Make a mark across all the universal joint flanges. So if you ever want to reinstall the stock shaft, you can line the thing up again. We removed the centre pipe for this job. It might not be possible to do it, but it's a lot easier without in in the way.
1.) Loosen the 4 bolts on the flange in front of the rear diff. Support the shaft with something so when you remove the bolts, the thing doesn't just flop down. Remove the bolts.
2.) Loosen the 4 bolts on the flange in front of the _front_ support bearing. Again, support the front section of the shaft for the same reason as last time. Remove the bolts.
3.) Loosen the nuts holding the two bearing hangers.
4.) Work the rear two sections of the shaft off the car as you loosen the nuts. It is possible for a person to carry the two sections but it is fairly impossible to do so in a controlled manner. We used two people for this one and a small amount of swearing.
The rear most two section of the shaft should be off the car now.
Now comes the fun part.
5.) Get a vise. Or ring up your friend, telling him that you need a vise but haven't got one that wouldn't destroy the shaft and he has to come and HOLD the shaft.
6.) Grip the end near the _front_ bearing and you'll find a nut, a rather large one, in the centre. Ask your friend to hold the shaft while you undo the nut.
7.) Find out that you can't hold on the the thing cos Mitsu recommends that the torque is something like 140lbft so you have to wrap the thing up in a towel and clamp it in the vise anyway. Undo this nut and now you should be able to pull the bearing assembly off the shaft. It might do well to take care not to damage the rubber boot and seals. Remember which way the bearing points.
8.) Remove the old shaft from the vise, clamp the CF shaft to the vise. $hit yourself thinking you're going to crack the shaft and tighten the vise very carefully, and grease the surfaces that will sit on the seal (basically all the cylindrical faces). Install the bearing on the splined end you've been greasing. Helps a lot if you install it the right way round.
9.) Tighten the nut with 140lbft +/-20lbft (basically very tight).
10.) You're ready to go. Since you've now got two flanged ends, you can just lift the shaft up and bolt it on. It's a good idea to have someone support the rear most end of the shaft as you thread the nuts on the bearing supprt first. Install the shaft, we started by tightening the flanged ends first then the bearing support nuts.
Mitsu recommends that you replace the self locking nuts holding the bearing supports and the big one on the shaft that you had to clamp it to remove.
As I said, this is from memory, and steps 0-3 were done in my absence so it might not work exactly like that. Anyway, it was really quite easy, but then we had the car on a hoist so we could walk around underneath it (and get really sore necks). I'll take pics of the stock shaft to show where things re if anyone wants. I will also try to get some installed pics. Might be a little difficult however...
Anyway, from memory, this is how we did it - all important stuff is in bold. The rest is mainly noise...
The important thing, the _VERY_ important thing, is to remember that the evo's drive shaft is probably the longest in the world and has three sections. The CF shaft only replaces the rear two so the first section will not be replaced.
0.) Make a mark across all the universal joint flanges. So if you ever want to reinstall the stock shaft, you can line the thing up again. We removed the centre pipe for this job. It might not be possible to do it, but it's a lot easier without in in the way.
1.) Loosen the 4 bolts on the flange in front of the rear diff. Support the shaft with something so when you remove the bolts, the thing doesn't just flop down. Remove the bolts.
2.) Loosen the 4 bolts on the flange in front of the _front_ support bearing. Again, support the front section of the shaft for the same reason as last time. Remove the bolts.
3.) Loosen the nuts holding the two bearing hangers.
4.) Work the rear two sections of the shaft off the car as you loosen the nuts. It is possible for a person to carry the two sections but it is fairly impossible to do so in a controlled manner. We used two people for this one and a small amount of swearing.
The rear most two section of the shaft should be off the car now.
Now comes the fun part.
5.) Get a vise. Or ring up your friend, telling him that you need a vise but haven't got one that wouldn't destroy the shaft and he has to come and HOLD the shaft.
6.) Grip the end near the _front_ bearing and you'll find a nut, a rather large one, in the centre. Ask your friend to hold the shaft while you undo the nut.
7.) Find out that you can't hold on the the thing cos Mitsu recommends that the torque is something like 140lbft so you have to wrap the thing up in a towel and clamp it in the vise anyway. Undo this nut and now you should be able to pull the bearing assembly off the shaft. It might do well to take care not to damage the rubber boot and seals. Remember which way the bearing points.
8.) Remove the old shaft from the vise, clamp the CF shaft to the vise. $hit yourself thinking you're going to crack the shaft and tighten the vise very carefully, and grease the surfaces that will sit on the seal (basically all the cylindrical faces). Install the bearing on the splined end you've been greasing. Helps a lot if you install it the right way round.
9.) Tighten the nut with 140lbft +/-20lbft (basically very tight).
10.) You're ready to go. Since you've now got two flanged ends, you can just lift the shaft up and bolt it on. It's a good idea to have someone support the rear most end of the shaft as you thread the nuts on the bearing supprt first. Install the shaft, we started by tightening the flanged ends first then the bearing support nuts.
Mitsu recommends that you replace the self locking nuts holding the bearing supports and the big one on the shaft that you had to clamp it to remove.
As I said, this is from memory, and steps 0-3 were done in my absence so it might not work exactly like that. Anyway, it was really quite easy, but then we had the car on a hoist so we could walk around underneath it (and get really sore necks). I'll take pics of the stock shaft to show where things re if anyone wants. I will also try to get some installed pics. Might be a little difficult however...
#84
Can anyone tell me the length of CTG Torqline CF propshaft for evo 7/8/9 ??
I do know there are two types, one for RS rear diff and one for S-AYC rear diff, but I don't have the length of any of them.
I do know that the RS is 18mm shorter than the S-AYC (GTR) one.
TIA
I do know there are two types, one for RS rear diff and one for S-AYC rear diff, but I don't have the length of any of them.
I do know that the RS is 18mm shorter than the S-AYC (GTR) one.
TIA
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ams, carbon, ctg, driveshafe, driveshaft, driveshafts, evo, evom, fiber, fibre, ix, prop, shaft, trick, viii