Symptoms of bad/faulty knock sensor
#16
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I had to deal with a similar problem when tuning my friends 1g back in the day. Retarding timing, replaced knock sensor, adding fuel just didn't seem to rid it of the phantom knock. Wish we got around to figureing it out before he just replaced the engine. Is it possible to add a seperate knock sensor like a knocklite to see if you can narrow it down?
#19
for 91 octane the timing is a bit high IMO. try -2 and peak TQ and 11/12 up top. what kinda knock number are u seeing.
OR
i said this is another post - throw in some Q16 and see if knock reduces.
if the problem persists i have another solution, but try the above first.
OR
i said this is another post - throw in some Q16 and see if knock reduces.
if the problem persists i have another solution, but try the above first.
I run the same timing on other evo's with no problems, I would have tried that If I thought otherwise.
I will look into the driveline more next time I get to look at it.
#20
Evolved Member
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Are you data logging your car at all? At what load are you seeing knock counts and how many? Because if your seeing a large number of knock counts at 3psi or less then you may have a faulty knock sensor and/or something rubbing or rattling to make the sensor read that.
G/L
G/L
#22
I am bringing this from the dead, but I am tuning a 2005 EVO8 and its knocking pretty bad as well, 36-45 counts, starting at 3200RPM, I tried the same file on a car with same setup and it has zero knocks, anyway the strange thing about this car is that, when it knocks, if I turn it off then back on and drive it hard from 1st gear, it drives the first 3 gears with zero knocks, when we go into 4th it starts to knock, and afterward it keeps on knocking in every gear the moment we hit boost, infact even when BOV release pressure it measure knocks. boost is pretty low at about 19psi, AFR is in the high (10.8-10.9) and timing pretty conservative.
Cheers
Cheers
#23
Evolving Member
This just gave me an idea. About people having false knock after the build or clutch job.
The front engine mount has a bigger hole than the bolt itself. By the time you put some power down, the engine will twist a bit and possibly start rattling on the bolt. Just an idea for now. I have a car to test on tuesday that has a false knock problem. I will report back then.
I've also seen another that had a really bad false knock that ended up to have spun main bearings.
The front engine mount has a bigger hole than the bolt itself. By the time you put some power down, the engine will twist a bit and possibly start rattling on the bolt. Just an idea for now. I have a car to test on tuesday that has a false knock problem. I will report back then.
I've also seen another that had a really bad false knock that ended up to have spun main bearings.
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