Evo stalls w/ AC on only when depressing clutch on decel
May 21, 2013, 12:39 PM
#19
Under the dash behind the clutch pedal is a switch when u depress the clutch pedal it's supposed to be depressed also... Sometimes it moves to one side and doesn't make full contact, check that ill bet that's your prob and even if it looks like everything is good under there try adjusting the switch closer to the Pedal stop
Jul 2, 2013, 04:32 AM
#21
Newbie
I was having this problem as well as terrible E85 cold starts, changed IACV, front O2, checked for boost, vacuum and exhaust leaks, played with lots of things including BISS, injector latencies, MAF scaling. Logging showed that AFR's were going rich <10 prior to stalling.
Ended up running the battery low with all the starts and reflashing, thought I bricked the ECU as it stopped flashing part way through, couldn't start the car, couldn't flash anymore.
Disconnected the battery, charged it overnight, pulled the ECU fuse under the hood, fully charged laptop, reconnected the battery and was able to flash last known good ROM into the car. After this when the revs start to drop I can actually hear the IACV clicking, adding air and preventing the stall. Never heard that before. Generally now when I coast off the gas the revs drop to 1000 rpm and no lower.
I suggest disconnect the battery overnight AND remove the ECU fuse and see if the IAC system resets. Good luck.
Ended up running the battery low with all the starts and reflashing, thought I bricked the ECU as it stopped flashing part way through, couldn't start the car, couldn't flash anymore.
Disconnected the battery, charged it overnight, pulled the ECU fuse under the hood, fully charged laptop, reconnected the battery and was able to flash last known good ROM into the car. After this when the revs start to drop I can actually hear the IACV clicking, adding air and preventing the stall. Never heard that before. Generally now when I coast off the gas the revs drop to 1000 rpm and no lower.
I suggest disconnect the battery overnight AND remove the ECU fuse and see if the IAC system resets. Good luck.
Jul 3, 2013, 01:51 PM
#22
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Philadelphia
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I was having this problem as well as terrible E85 cold starts, changed IACV, front O2, checked for boost, vacuum and exhaust leaks, played with lots of things including BISS, injector latencies, MAF scaling. Logging showed that AFR's were going rich <10 prior to stalling.
Ended up running the battery low with all the starts and reflashing, thought I bricked the ECU as it stopped flashing part way through, couldn't start the car, couldn't flash anymore.
Disconnected the battery, charged it overnight, pulled the ECU fuse under the hood, fully charged laptop, reconnected the battery and was able to flash last known good ROM into the car. After this when the revs start to drop I can actually hear the IACV clicking, adding air and preventing the stall. Never heard that before. Generally now when I coast off the gas the revs drop to 1000 rpm and no lower.
I suggest disconnect the battery overnight AND remove the ECU fuse and see if the IAC system resets. Good luck.
Ended up running the battery low with all the starts and reflashing, thought I bricked the ECU as it stopped flashing part way through, couldn't start the car, couldn't flash anymore.
Disconnected the battery, charged it overnight, pulled the ECU fuse under the hood, fully charged laptop, reconnected the battery and was able to flash last known good ROM into the car. After this when the revs start to drop I can actually hear the IACV clicking, adding air and preventing the stall. Never heard that before. Generally now when I coast off the gas the revs drop to 1000 rpm and no lower.
I suggest disconnect the battery overnight AND remove the ECU fuse and see if the IAC system resets. Good luck.
Ill try this. Should I go ahead a replace the IAC vavle first. I guess it won't hurt if I do the relearn first. Anyone else have any other suggestions.
Jul 4, 2013, 03:54 AM
#23
Newbie
You can test the IACV if you have a multimeter, test 2-1, 2-3, 5-4 and 5-6, explained here https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-question.html If it tests OK I wouldn't bother changing it until at least you've tried the full drain down, ECU fuse out etc. You should park the IACV using EvoScan and re-set the base idle after you re-start the car and it's warmed up.
Aug 14, 2013, 10:25 AM
#24
Did anybody ever find a fix to this.. the only thing left for me to replace is the MAF sensor.... and I am about to just buy a new one to see if it will fix the issue.
Sep 11, 2013, 01:25 AM
#25
Newbie
Update. I still had a problem with low revs and stalling even after doing the battery disconnect reset in the posts above, just not as bad. Then I changed my BOV from the stock metal one to a Synchronic DV, the small one. Now perfect idle and absolutely no stalls with clutch in. I also picked up a whole lot of boost as the stock valve must have been leaking, so now the turbo doesn't have to work as hard.
Sep 11, 2013, 08:04 AM
#26
My car does the same thing. It drives perfect without ac and when I come to a light and out the clutch in it drops right down to 1000 and sits there. But with ac on it stalls when I put in the clutch and hit the brakes coming to a stoplight. I hardly ever use ac unless a girl is in the car because they seem to ***** about the Texas heat, but it's still a little annoying. I might remove ac since I can't use it anyways
Sep 11, 2013, 03:53 PM
#28
Evolved Member
There are a couple of things you can do:
Set the timing advance at 0 Load and 10 Load to something like 12*.
The idle timing should be 5-8* on your spark map at Load 30-40.
Basically you surround the idle point with higher spark advance which gives the engine the torque to recover quickly.
The other helper you can tweak is the low idle rpm recovery adder table/s, which you may not have in your current def.
Set the timing advance at 0 Load and 10 Load to something like 12*.
The idle timing should be 5-8* on your spark map at Load 30-40.
Basically you surround the idle point with higher spark advance which gives the engine the torque to recover quickly.
The other helper you can tweak is the low idle rpm recovery adder table/s, which you may not have in your current def.
Sep 12, 2013, 10:34 PM
#29
There are a couple of things you can do:
Set the timing advance at 0 Load and 10 Load to something like 12*.
The idle timing should be 5-8* on your spark map at Load 30-40.
Basically you surround the idle point with higher spark advance which gives the engine the torque to recover quickly.
The other helper you can tweak is the low idle rpm recovery adder table/s, which you may not have in your current def.
Set the timing advance at 0 Load and 10 Load to something like 12*.
The idle timing should be 5-8* on your spark map at Load 30-40.
Basically you surround the idle point with higher spark advance which gives the engine the torque to recover quickly.
The other helper you can tweak is the low idle rpm recovery adder table/s, which you may not have in your current def.
Sep 13, 2013, 03:43 AM
#30
Evolved Member
I have lost track of mrfreds original descriptions, but I think thats the puppy.
The scaling should be in steps not percent but that does not change the table functionality.
The scaling should be in steps not percent but that does not change the table functionality.