Timmay81

iTrader: (17)

84-85%, My pump is also hard wired

asubennett

iTrader: (5)

Wow, I had no idea hard wiring the pump would result in that much more fueling efficiency.

Timmay81

iTrader: (17)

with stock wiring pump will drop down to like 9 volts in upper rpm i think, i wired min in with 10 gauge from the battery with a relay.

Creamo3

iTrader: (48)

Not to discredit your numbers, but the dyno reads higher than your typical dynojet. A single walbro & 1000cc injectors will reach 100% IDC around 500whp regardless if it's hardwired on E85. I'm guessing this car would put down 475whp on a dynojet. What were the uncorrected numbers?

Timmay81

iTrader: (17)

uncorrected was just a touch over 500. guess ill take it to the track and get the numbers to back up my times


This dyno is NOT a dynojet, it is superflow and it can project dynojet numbers, it has been test against other superflows and dynojets that are local and numbers come out to be very very close

Timmay81

iTrader: (17)

btw last year making 408 on this dyno i went 117mph which when doing the calculation told me i had 403hp so id say its pretty on spec

BillSpec

Made 640 on stock reg.

BIGJEFF

iTrader: (7)

Nice numbers how do you like the FP black on E85 how much lag does it have or what rpm does it start to spool up.

asubennett

iTrader: (5)

But I am sure you have at least a double pumper in tank right? My point was 550WHP on stock FPR AND 1 Walbro was scary. I could maybe see 1 Walbro and an aftermarket FPR to crank up FP to the moon, but even that is scary.

Timmay81

iTrader: (17)

I was wrong 84-85% on 26 lbs and 94% on the 550 run

evodude32

iTrader: (1)

That would just make the pump flow less and cause more issues, higher pressures is not always a good thing, not to mention it will pop the pressure relief valve on the pump at 85psi if I remember correctly with a walbro 255 if the relief valve is not knocked down (modded walbro 255)

People have done 700whp on the stock FPR. The stock FPR is pretty good on our evo's.

Booztd 3

iTrader: (15)

Is there a write-up or any pictures on the valve being knocked down?

I've got two pumps out of the car about ready to go in...

BLKCarbonEVO

iTrader: (2)

Just to let you know, your car will not last with 475tq. It will blow rather quick. I can't believe your tuner pushed you that far on stock block. Here up in the NW we won't really go over 425tq. My car survived 1.5 years with 535hp/430tq and looked great when we took it apart but that was still to much tq than I really like to see on the stock block.

Mikey

evodude32

iTrader: (1)

That's kind of a silly thing to say lol, there have been PLENTY of people that have done this amount of power for very long periods of time. We have an evo over here with stock block with over 100k miles that has been pushing 550whp and over 450wtq with a AMS 35r turbo kit for the past 4 years, and 40k+ miles no problems, and it has been abused from drag racing to hill climbs to autox events..
If the tune is happy and your not spinning the motor up to stupid RPM's the motor will be fine.
From my experiences it's RPM that will kill the stock rods along with a poor tune IE detonation, hard missfires ect. I've seen stock motors blow at 400whp and 350wtq, and I've also seen stock motors with close to 600whp and over 450wtq and not blow. It's a gamble you play when dealing with the stock block.
Your entitled to your opinion, but to claim that it will "blow" is fairly ignorant. You don't know that. It may, it may not, one fact that does remain is if you wanna play, you gotta expect something to break, regardless if it does or not. Racing and modding a stock block evo always has it's risk, regardless of power or tq...
This car is well under 475wtq when racing on a track (shifting at 7700rpm and falling back way above peak tq numbers), the owner of the car is not some idiot and knows his limits.

evodude32

iTrader: (1)

There was a write up somewhere but I can't seem to find it, but it's fairly easy to do. If you look at the top of the pump you will see a hole with a cap and a spring under it (it's kinda hard to see it but it's there) Find a punch that fits down the hole and sits on the cap perfectly and slightly tap the cap down till it is almost bottomed out.