Nick's beast - Evo 9 MR - 2.1L FP Black FP5R AEM EMS v2 E85 kill mode
#1
Nick's beast - Evo 9 MR - 2.1L FP Black FP5R AEM EMS v2 E85 kill mode
We finished tweaking Nicks evo today and we got some really nice numbers given the temps outside. It was around 95F outside in MO, however low humidity in the 30-40%.
This is the first Evo i've done on AEM EMS (Prior only have done S2000's), so i got a lot of help from Nick when doing the car as far as setting up general settings and so forth. With my base map we were able to get the car running well, then from there me and Nick worked together to get the car dialed in really good with setting fuel cut settings, o2 feedback table, misc idle controller parameters, and other misc things.
If i remember correctly, we actually started from scratch on a fresh calibration and then fine tuned everything to what we thought was best after we got it all running.
The car drives amazing and makes very smooth power. This car will also be featured on 1320vids soon as well. It killed a ZR1 and gave some 1 liter bikes some trouble with the tune maybe 80% complete at the time.
Since we don't know what the actual timing of the car is, we left a few degrees uptop conservative, so theres more in the car, but without a dyno its not worth risking it on a road that isn't 100% flat. We didn't sync the AEM with a timing light yet because we didn't have a light to sync it with.
Once Nick gets back to OH we will put it on a local dynojet to see what we come up with as well.
ECU: AEM EMS Series 2
Loc: MO
Fuel: E85
mods:
Boston Hatcher Built 2.1L
Wiseco 1400HD pistons 10.1 compression
MAP ultimate duty rods
FP Black DBB Ported /w Turbosmart 26psi WGA
Buschur stage 3 head
Modded MIVEC Gear
MAP H11 head studs
FP5R cams
AMS FMIC 3.8”
AMS LICP and UICP
FIC 2150 / -8 Feed -6 Return fuel lines and AN Fittings
Fuel Lab Inline 5" Fuel Filter
Fuel lab mini FPR
Magnus Fuel Rail
Buschur COP CDI ignition system
Magnus v5 Intake manifold
Boomba 75mm throttle body
boomba PCV
JMF Exhaust Manifold
MAP o2 dump with 3d Flange
Ebay 3 inch downpipe
AMS 3 inch exhaust
QTP electric cutout with turn down
Full Blown Anodized Fuel Hanger - 2 Modded Walbro 255 fuel pumps Siphon Drilled to 9/64
Quartermaster 8 leg twin disc clutch
Tial 50mm BOV
AEM Serial Gauge
AEM EMS v2
AEM boost control solenoid
SD kit omni 4 bar gm iat
Graph:
Still alittle more tweaking we will do, but the results as is are very nice.
it almost has over 4000RPM of powerband in 3rd gear! We are revving out to 9k!
This is the first Evo i've done on AEM EMS (Prior only have done S2000's), so i got a lot of help from Nick when doing the car as far as setting up general settings and so forth. With my base map we were able to get the car running well, then from there me and Nick worked together to get the car dialed in really good with setting fuel cut settings, o2 feedback table, misc idle controller parameters, and other misc things.
If i remember correctly, we actually started from scratch on a fresh calibration and then fine tuned everything to what we thought was best after we got it all running.
The car drives amazing and makes very smooth power. This car will also be featured on 1320vids soon as well. It killed a ZR1 and gave some 1 liter bikes some trouble with the tune maybe 80% complete at the time.
Since we don't know what the actual timing of the car is, we left a few degrees uptop conservative, so theres more in the car, but without a dyno its not worth risking it on a road that isn't 100% flat. We didn't sync the AEM with a timing light yet because we didn't have a light to sync it with.
Once Nick gets back to OH we will put it on a local dynojet to see what we come up with as well.
ECU: AEM EMS Series 2
Loc: MO
Fuel: E85
mods:
Boston Hatcher Built 2.1L
Wiseco 1400HD pistons 10.1 compression
MAP ultimate duty rods
FP Black DBB Ported /w Turbosmart 26psi WGA
Buschur stage 3 head
Modded MIVEC Gear
MAP H11 head studs
FP5R cams
AMS FMIC 3.8”
AMS LICP and UICP
FIC 2150 / -8 Feed -6 Return fuel lines and AN Fittings
Fuel Lab Inline 5" Fuel Filter
Fuel lab mini FPR
Magnus Fuel Rail
Buschur COP CDI ignition system
Magnus v5 Intake manifold
Boomba 75mm throttle body
boomba PCV
JMF Exhaust Manifold
MAP o2 dump with 3d Flange
Ebay 3 inch downpipe
AMS 3 inch exhaust
QTP electric cutout with turn down
Full Blown Anodized Fuel Hanger - 2 Modded Walbro 255 fuel pumps Siphon Drilled to 9/64
Quartermaster 8 leg twin disc clutch
Tial 50mm BOV
AEM Serial Gauge
AEM EMS v2
AEM boost control solenoid
SD kit omni 4 bar gm iat
Graph:
Still alittle more tweaking we will do, but the results as is are very nice.
it almost has over 4000RPM of powerband in 3rd gear! We are revving out to 9k!
Last edited by tscompusa; Jul 23, 2013 at 07:08 AM.
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#8
Evolved Member
iTrader: (102)
very nice work and results guys!
Tom,
can you elaborate more about the timming comment you made?
"Since we don't know what the actual timing of the car is, we left a few degrees uptop conservative, so theres more in the car, but without a dyno its not worth risking it on a road that isn't 100% flat. We didn't sync the AEM with a timing light yet because we didn't have a light to sync it with."
Does AEM not provide a timming feedback?
Tom,
can you elaborate more about the timming comment you made?
"Since we don't know what the actual timing of the car is, we left a few degrees uptop conservative, so theres more in the car, but without a dyno its not worth risking it on a road that isn't 100% flat. We didn't sync the AEM with a timing light yet because we didn't have a light to sync it with."
Does AEM not provide a timming feedback?
#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
^ When setting up the AEM EMS, you need to use a timing light to verify/ match the timing value in the EMS' "timing base map". Once you match the base timing values in the EMS, to the what is reading on the timing light (ie if youre getting 10* at idle, you calibrate your base timing map to that value* in the EMS) your EMS "in synch" with your engines' timing at idle.
This process is a PITA lol After this, your values logged will match, to what is in your timing map.
If that was confusing, here is how AEM recommends setting it up.
This process is a PITA lol After this, your values logged will match, to what is in your timing map.
If that was confusing, here is how AEM recommends setting it up.
Steps
1. Start your car
2. On AEM Pro go to Configure -> ECU Setup -> Set Ignition
3. Set the fixed Ignition timing in the box from 0 to 10(or what ever value you like that will not kill the car)
4. Check the Box
-- This will now have your car at 10 degrees timing based on the EMS, so now you need to sync the EMS and the Car.
5. Check to see where your timing is currently at, with the timing light(You will most likley not have the same number for both the car and the EMS) You want to get the Ign Timing number(10) to equal the value you see on your timing marks
-- This is accomplished by pressing the Advance and Retard buttons.
-- Corse and Fine adjustment
----Corse = 2+ degrees per Advance/Retard button click
----Fine = .2 degrees per Advance/Retard button click
6. Start with the Corse setting and get as close to 10 degrees as possible, remember to check the timing light after each button click.
7. Now you are very close to 10 degrees, switch to Fine, and repeat until you are as close to 10 degrees as possible.
8. Once you are satisified with where you are at, simpley uncheck the Set Fixed timing, and click the Ok button.
1. Start your car
2. On AEM Pro go to Configure -> ECU Setup -> Set Ignition
3. Set the fixed Ignition timing in the box from 0 to 10(or what ever value you like that will not kill the car)
4. Check the Box
-- This will now have your car at 10 degrees timing based on the EMS, so now you need to sync the EMS and the Car.
5. Check to see where your timing is currently at, with the timing light(You will most likley not have the same number for both the car and the EMS) You want to get the Ign Timing number(10) to equal the value you see on your timing marks
-- This is accomplished by pressing the Advance and Retard buttons.
-- Corse and Fine adjustment
----Corse = 2+ degrees per Advance/Retard button click
----Fine = .2 degrees per Advance/Retard button click
6. Start with the Corse setting and get as close to 10 degrees as possible, remember to check the timing light after each button click.
7. Now you are very close to 10 degrees, switch to Fine, and repeat until you are as close to 10 degrees as possible.
8. Once you are satisified with where you are at, simpley uncheck the Set Fixed timing, and click the Ok button.
#12
ya the turbos definitely getting its *** kicked.
mini street sweeper ya. yours is the big boy version
I do not know if other ECU's require the timing synch or not, id imagine so.
we may be able to feed the car more timing up top and stop it from falling off like it is now. but i dont wanna do that unless we go on a dyno for safety purposes since we're using e85.
#13
just because its falling off up top doesn't mean that isnt part of the powerband. its still over 600whp in the graph.
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it actually starts around 4800ish which makes it over 4k here.