Forced Performance Zero results are in! Test subject: EVO IX 2.4LR R2 Cams 93 & E85
Jun 18, 2016, 10:49 AM
#61
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2.4 lr
Currently building a 2.4LR and was wondering if anyone had some tips on how to keep coolant from coming out. I oringed the block and got l19studs. Just looking if anyone knew anything else
Jun 19, 2016, 08:42 AM
#62
I daily drove my 2.4L .020 over (87mm) build with 31-32psi which produced roughly 752whp / 621wtq which went 145 at the track on gate pressure and had no gaskets issues.
Once I upped the boost to closer to 40psi I would eventually have coolant push after around 800-1000 miles on the gasket then a new gasket would fully eliminate it again.
The best bet is the copper gasket and the lock groove o-ring on head and block. That setup wont ever fail, but its a custom setup.
Otherwise if you keep your boost under say 38psi you should be ok for awhile especially if its standard bore on a o-ring block.
Don't torque the L19 past 105 and you'll be mint.
Also: I have a big FP Zero setup ill be sharing soon. Should be around 800whp and its one of our built 2.0's
Jul 1, 2016, 10:09 AM
#64
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Yeah I have a .20 bore on my 2.4LR wanna run high boost on the fp zero to reach a 700+ goal. Just worried about pushing coolant. 10.5.1 weisco. Turbo tuff rods. Just trying to figure out other tips.
Jul 1, 2016, 11:47 AM
#65
Ive read the limit was right around 40psi, as Tom stated.
ffwdconnection also sells copper gaskets if you are wanting to go that route. Just note that the installation is different when using a copper gasket. (Just have to retorque a few times. Normally after a single heat cycle. x2-x3)
ffwdconnection also sells copper gaskets if you are wanting to go that route. Just note that the installation is different when using a copper gasket. (Just have to retorque a few times. Normally after a single heat cycle. x2-x3)
Feb 2, 2017, 09:47 AM
#69
Depending on what bore you're at now (standard bore on a 2.4L 4g64 block is 86.5mm) Just a simple o-ring of the block or head should get it to seal for you.
I daily drove my 2.4L .020 over (87mm) build with 31-32psi which produced roughly 752whp / 621wtq which went 145 at the track on gate pressure and had no gaskets issues.
Once I upped the boost to closer to 40psi I would eventually have coolant push after around 800-1000 miles on the gasket then a new gasket would fully eliminate it again.
The best bet is the copper gasket and the lock groove o-ring on head and block. That setup wont ever fail, but its a custom setup.
Otherwise if you keep your boost under say 38psi you should be ok for awhile especially if its standard bore on a o-ring block.
Don't torque the L19 past 105 and you'll be mint.
Also: I have a big FP Zero setup ill be sharing soon. Should be around 800whp and its one of our built 2.0's
I daily drove my 2.4L .020 over (87mm) build with 31-32psi which produced roughly 752whp / 621wtq which went 145 at the track on gate pressure and had no gaskets issues.
Once I upped the boost to closer to 40psi I would eventually have coolant push after around 800-1000 miles on the gasket then a new gasket would fully eliminate it again.
The best bet is the copper gasket and the lock groove o-ring on head and block. That setup wont ever fail, but its a custom setup.
Otherwise if you keep your boost under say 38psi you should be ok for awhile especially if its standard bore on a o-ring block.
Don't torque the L19 past 105 and you'll be mint.
Also: I have a big FP Zero setup ill be sharing soon. Should be around 800whp and its one of our built 2.0's
Feb 4, 2017, 03:16 AM
#71
So far with a 2.4L LR we have had success with running a cosworth HG and just o-ringing the block (copper o-ring) while using MAPerformance hd headstuds torqued to their recommendations.
With using O-rings once the engine has been heat cycled you'll need to go back and check the torque and then again after driving to make sure it is still torqued down properly. Once that is done the O-rings should be seated properly and the head is good to go being torqued down. We have ran 40-42psi this way without having an issue of pushing coolant. This is on the car this thread was started about, also my personal car, and a 2.4L LR pte 6466 car we built. The 6466 car used ARP 625 headstuds though and made 830+ awhp.
https://m.facebook.com/baycityboost/
With using O-rings once the engine has been heat cycled you'll need to go back and check the torque and then again after driving to make sure it is still torqued down properly. Once that is done the O-rings should be seated properly and the head is good to go being torqued down. We have ran 40-42psi this way without having an issue of pushing coolant. This is on the car this thread was started about, also my personal car, and a 2.4L LR pte 6466 car we built. The 6466 car used ARP 625 headstuds though and made 830+ awhp.
https://m.facebook.com/baycityboost/
Feb 4, 2017, 08:09 AM
#72
I have a customer with one of our built engines on a zero where we ran around 44psi or so i can dig it up if you really want me to.
Feb 6, 2017, 08:49 AM
#75
[QUOTE=tscompusa;11707492]The best way is copper gasket /w receiver groove/lock. You cant add two orings unless they are designed for each other or they will work against each other.
With the copper gasket will it hold 40+ PSI or as you stated before, the gasket will have to be changed every 800/1000 miles or coolant will start to be pushed?
With the lock and groove O-ring on the head and block is this the only way to prevent coolant from being pushed do to high PSI without having to change the HG every 800/1000 miles?
With the copper gasket will it hold 40+ PSI or as you stated before, the gasket will have to be changed every 800/1000 miles or coolant will start to be pushed?
With the lock and groove O-ring on the head and block is this the only way to prevent coolant from being pushed do to high PSI without having to change the HG every 800/1000 miles?