boostnMA

iTrader: (6)

I am currently in the process of upgrading my 2005 SSL.

- Deck: Pioneer DEH-7300BT
- Front Speakers: MB QUART PREMIUM PCE 216 Component Speakers 4ohm 60-120w RMS
- Rear Speakers: (2) KICKER CVT65 6.5" SUB 2ohm 150w RMS each
- AMP: Audiobahn A6004V 4 channel (1-2 channel 75w x2 @ 4ohm: 3-4 channel 150w x2 @ 2ohm)

I mounted the crossovers on the stock AMP rack/mount located under the drivers seat, this way I didnt have to drill/screw new holes into the bottom of the car. This also allowed me to easily connect to the stock speaker leads and not have to run new wires to the tweeters and doors. The stock wire is sufficient for 75w.

I removed the stock tweeters from the car, the bottom screw is difficult to remove. I did this by using a 1/4 socket wrench, with a 1/4 socket, and a screw bit placed inside the socket. I then removed the stock tweeter from the stock tweeter bracket, and drilled a hole in the tweeter bracket for the new tweeter to mount to. Next I cut the speaker leads off of the old tweeter and soldered them onto the new tweeter. making the tweeter plug and play by being able to plug into the stock tweeter plug.


*see attached images

boostnMA

iTrader: (6)

I created speaker mounts out of 1/2 MDF by tracing the stock speaker onto the MDF and drilled holes in the MDF to connect to the stock speaker holes. Then I used a bowl that was 5.5" round placed it evenly spaced inside the template, traced around that and cut it out. You will need new screws to mount the speaker mounts, I used #8 1.25" screws, with washers, countersinked into the MDF. I also used silicone between the MDF and the door, and between the speaker and the MDF.

I also used Metra G5XL (72-8104 toyota univ spkr into spkr) speaker connectors to connect the new door speakers to the factory speaker plugs. The drivers side door matched up with negative ( yellow with a black stripe) but with the passenger door the connector was reversed, so i had to connect the negative wire to the positive speaker terminal and the positive wire to the negative speaker terminal. The negative terminal should go to the yellow with a black stripe wire for both the driver and passenger door speakers. Make sure you verify this when using these connectors.

I am currently in the process of creating the mount for the AMP, which will be in the trunk mounted on the crossbar behind the rear seats. I will also be running new speaker wires to the subs (since they will be directly above the amp) and installing the subs. I will take more pictures as I go.

*see attached

FJF

iTrader: (18)

1. While the doorcards are off, this is a great time to seal and deaden the doors. It'll do more for sound quality than any other move. Refer to www.sounddeadenershowdown.com and the sticked door deadening thread on caraudio.com speaker forum.

2. Hate to be the bearer of bad news; the Kicker woofers in the rear deck aren't gonna do sh/t. The space isn't geared for IB.

FWIW, the carpeting in our cars is such that Velcro sticks to it like glue. There's really no need to drill holes in anything.

boostnMA

iTrader: (6)

Can you elaborate on this (why it wont do anything) and what is IB?

FJF

iTrader: (18)

IB = Infinite Baffle. The front wave of the speaker must be physically separated from the rear wave, as a speaker transmits sound in both directions, and a low-frequency driver can work without an enclosure. That's what you're trying to do.

It won't do much, because the car isn't geared for IB, and even it it were, there's too much road/drivetrain/exhaust/tire noise for the drivers to make a substantial audible impact when the car moving. Under a best case scenario, IB is limited by the excursion of the driver.

boostnMA

iTrader: (6)

I'm only using them for rear fill, as i dont want tweeters (highs) in the rear as this will throw off the sound stage. The subs will provide rear fill, and not too much bass, which is what i am looking for.

Based on what you say it appears any speaker might not work properly in the rear deck, not just a sub, (or atleast the driver part of any speaker) is that accurate to say?

FJF

iTrader: (18)

Ultimately, yes. The same constraint applies to the front speakers, as well. That's why sealing and deadening the doors makes such a big aural difference.

As for rear fill, the choice is up to the individual. From a pure audio perspective, stereo means two channels culminating in a three dimensional image. Having two sets of transducers (front and rear) blurs the image, and introduces cancellation and phase shift. From a car guy sound perspective, multiple sets of speakers will make the system sound louder and more apt to cut through the noise of a highly modified car. Purely sonic constrains lose their relevance and rightfully so. Hope that made sense.

boostnMA

iTrader: (6)

I created an amp rack out of 1/2 MDF and mounted it to the cross bracing behind the rear seats. (see attached pics)

boostnMA

iTrader: (6)

I ran the power wire through the drivers fender, using the bottom grommet, which leads to a grommet underneath the drivers bottom door trim. The power wire enters the engine bay near the drivers headlight. I also ran the wire through the rectangular black box that secures some other wires. I was able to fit the 8gauge wire through with a little effort. I then wrapped the power wire in black wire loom, and drilled a small hole to secure the wire using a zip tie. (see attached)

*In the drivers_fender_finished_1 pic the wire does not go into the top grommet (although it appears this way in the pic) the wire instead goes up and around the fender. Some people use the top grommet, but I heard those grommets can leak water and corrode the wires/panels. I also wanted to keep the power wire seperate away from the other wires and kick panel area in general

Pssst

iTrader: (8)

So Brian you're doing mine next right?

berryblackking

that is nice, keep up with the good work

xoulu

nice keep us updated

ionlylive

is the stock setup any good? I'm in the market and am hoping the SSL package sounds better than my 09 STI stock system which is HORRIBLE

Pssst

iTrader: (8)

Well I've been in Brians (OP's evo) before he did this upgrade and after...

Before.. compared to my Base evo system, sounds a worlds difference better! And then he did this upgrade and finished it... Sounds excellent. 100x better then his SSL.

But in the end SSL > Base