PPI

iTrader: (103)

so i am installing the gm boost solenoid i picked up this week, and have a couple questions.

1) i believe the factory solenoid has 2 ports on it. The gm one has 3. Since i am running the aem and not running the line to the airbos it looks as though i only will use one port on the solenoid. Is the correct thing to do just put plugs on the othe nipples on the solenoid?

2) no the factory solenoid has a 2 wire connector of diff. colors. the new pigtail for the new solenoid has 2 white wires....how do i know which one goes to which wire when i splice the new pigtail in.

Any help here would be great, I just want to make sure i do this correctly

Thanx in advance

mcaze

wiring polarity doesn't matter just wire it up.

As far as the 3rd port leave it open to atmosphere as it serves as an exhaust. There are several ways of hooking up the solenoid as can be found in the AEM Manual. Below is a picture of the easiest and most conventional way for a standard internal wastegate.

PPI

iTrader: (103)

thanks, exactly what i needed to know! even looks like the gm solenoid

Not that this is important, but i would love to know what those wires are exactly if polarity doesn't matter? Just trying to understand this more.

mcaze

one wire is positive and one is ground, but the solenoid doesn't care which one is which. You could wire it up with the positive to either wire and it will still work properly.

nickracer9

iTrader: (10)

the solenoid has a small positive symbol where the plug goes in.

04BLUBYU

iTrader: (1)

What is the advantage to using a gm solenoid?

mcaze

Quote taken straight from the AEMPro User Guide V2.0 (page 122, the diagrams for different ways to hook up the wastegate follow)

In my opinion the GM solenoid has a greater range and accuracy than the facory solenoid. I played with the factory solenoid with little luck and repeatability.

nothere

iTrader: (23)

mcaze,
did you find you needed a resistor? I think I overheated my GM solenoid and it became intermittant. but then again it may be caused by something else.

mcaze

I have installed and used 6 GM solenoids on AEM EMS's (3 EVO's) without problems(no Resistors). The setup in the software is key so that the solenoid isn't chattering all the time.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Generally, its not recommended to run it at over 85% duty.. If you find it will run hot if its running alot.. A few people have run a 1 watt, 10 ohm, resistor.. I do on mine, it reduces the curent enough so it doesn't get overly hot at higher duty cycles. But on the AEM EMS, its not required since you can configure it..

USP45

iTrader: (13)

The stock solenoid is not set up the same way as the picture from the AEM instructions is it? I cannot remember off of the top of my head, but I could swear that it is in slightly differently from that, I thought that there is a line from the bottom of the turbo (that has a restriction pill in it) that goes to a tee fitting, from the T-fitting one line goes to the stock solenoid and the other to the wastegate actuator. And our stock solenoid acts as a bleeder, it releases pressure to let the wastegate open, or holds pressure to keep it shut, is that correct? I believe that the pic above has it set up more like a MBC, but let me know if I am wrong. Robert at FP recommended that I set it up like the AEM pick/MBC. Have you tried it both ways yet Jack? Mine is sitting in my trunk, I have been getting the new SMART software tuned before I throw that into the mix, I do not want to tackle too many problems at one time. However, my WR is bleeding to 17 lbs at 7000, although that is on a 2.3, headwork with 1mm larger valve in/out, and I need to pressurise the system to look for boost leaks. I am looking forward to installing the GM piece set up as a MBC to see if the wastegate solenoid will keep the actuator shut. After that I will pick up the 22 lbs wastegate actuator from FP and start work again. I know that the WR will not be able to keep up with the well flowing 2.3 like it would a stock head 2.0, but I am really expecting to keep 21-23 to 7300-7500 which is all I want to run on this engine to keep piston speeds in check....

EvoTech

iTrader: (25)

Anyone considering the GM solenoid should also consider the Perrin unit. No need for resitors and it works well. Here is my brief review from the UTEC forum.


I have been running the UTEC with the ABC for a while now. I was getting tired of the excessive boost taper and large boost spikes in 4th and 5th gear. So I decided to try the new boost control Solenoid from Perrin. (about $70) It is a direct replacment for the stock boost control solenoid. You do however have to cut the factory plug and crimp the new wires to the factory harness. The install involves getting rid of all those stupid "T" connectors and "Y" connectors and restrictor pills. Yes all retrictor pills! You then replace this mess with one line from the BCS to the Turbo housing and one to the Actuator. Two direct lines about 12" each seem a lot better then what we had. Just consider the potential for leaks with all those connectors!

After a few days of testing I can say two things definitively. First is that boost spikes are completly eliminated. Second is that it holds boost much better. With the ABC on my Methanol MAP boost would quickly taper from 25 psi to 18. Now I can hold about 22 PSI to redline. It did not eliminate taper but it sure did help and the butt dyno says it continues to pull where it used to fall off. I did have to adjust the boost maps a little (down) but not much.

I would say that this was the best $70 I have spent so far. I would love to see a new dyno chart after this. I bet it is a lot flatter towards redline now that I am holding boost. Thanks to Adam at Z1 for hooking me up. Nice piece!

mcaze

joeycoates
The stock solenoid is setup just like you described. The GM solenoid could be setup this way as well. I choose not to set it up like that, since it bleeds air (maybe not much, but it still acts like a leak) Also if the solenoid fails in this configuration you will get max boost pressure. The solenoids are normally open and will typically remain this way when they fail. The earlier example will revert to wastegate spring if the solenoid fails. Attached is a diagram of how the EVO solenoid is hooked up (restrictor pill not shown)

USP45

iTrader: (13)

Has anyone else noticed how loud this thing is? It sounds like a bad lifter tap! However, it does work. I am running it like a MBC and I had to cut my boost tables in the Xede by 20% while I now hold 20 psi instead of hitting 20 and falling to 17 at redline. I only spent 15 minutes or so playing with it so I have to work on it some more to get it to 22 psi all of the way through. But one way or the other it sure does make a lot of racket.

johnjonfenomeno

iTrader: (17)

Where can I order a Gm boost solenoid and how much and where can I get the Perrin and how much?