ACT clutch acting strange.
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ft. Myers FL
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ACT clutch acting strange.
Ok so when the car is cold its pretty difficult to get into 1st when stopped and sometimes 2nd when rolling slow. when im stopped and put it into 1st it will roll forward a bit even with the clutch completely depressed. any suggestions?
#2
Account Disabled
iTrader: (465)
You need to raise the clutch engagement point. ACT units like to start to grab about midway and fully engage at about 85-90% near the top. This can be accomplished by loosening the clutch rod retaining nut (11mm I think) and spinning the rod clockwise I believe. Leave it without the nut tight until it is engaging right and then tighten it.
#3
+1
The reason the car moves forward is because the clutch pedal is not properly adjusted, this is also why the car has trouble going into gear. It's the same as when you try to put the car into gear without the clutch, at certain rpm's and loads it will go in like butter, but others it wont.
Once you get it adjusted, it will be fine.
The reason the car moves forward is because the clutch pedal is not properly adjusted, this is also why the car has trouble going into gear. It's the same as when you try to put the car into gear without the clutch, at certain rpm's and loads it will go in like butter, but others it wont.
Once you get it adjusted, it will be fine.
#5
Account Disabled
iTrader: (465)
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Go to evomoto.com for the tech guide on this adjustment. It's a 10mm nut, and this adjustment will most likely work for you.
Last time I drove your car Luke, I was able to bang those gears like a two dollar hooker when we were tuning your car on MAFTPRO and TTP Meth injection. I am surprised a month later the adjustment is different, weird. Maybe your retaining nut was a too loose from the factory?
We did not install his ACT, btw.
#6
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Fwiw, I just had to re-adjust my ACT again just this week. The nut didn't back out, and the rod was right where I left it. I only had 2 threads left, then I turned the rod half a turn, so now I have 1.5 threads left. It is back to shifting perfectly, but as I had feared when this happened the first time, the engagement point keeps changing. I thought when the disk wore down, the fluid would cause the clutch to adjust accordingly, but it didn't. I was back to having trouble with my quick shifts and was having notchiness/grinding with regular shifting. Everything is snickity smooth now, but I probably can only do this 1 or 2 more times before the rod is too far out.
Trending Topics
#8
Evolving Member
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Detroit area
Posts: 372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Warrtalon:
To avoid having your threaded rod on the last threads you can do what Jon from TRE has a recommendation on his site, spacing the pin on the slave cylinder with a 1 - 1.5mm washer.
Or, Lancershop.com sells a longer slave sylinder rod if it is not disengaing fully.
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...9&cat=6&page=1
Mattj
To avoid having your threaded rod on the last threads you can do what Jon from TRE has a recommendation on his site, spacing the pin on the slave cylinder with a 1 - 1.5mm washer.
Or, Lancershop.com sells a longer slave sylinder rod if it is not disengaing fully.
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...9&cat=6&page=1
Mattj
Last edited by Dropspeed; Jan 21, 2006 at 08:20 AM.
#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
Now is this the procedure I stated was required periodically throughout the year, that Dirk from ACT stated "was not required"? That the unit self adjusted for wear?
#10
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Originally Posted by Dropspeed
Warrtalon:
To avoid having your threaded rod on the last threads you can do what Jon from TRE has a recommendation on his site, spacing the pin on the slave cylinder with a 1 - 1.5mm washer.
Or, Lancershop.com sells a longer slave sylinder rod if it is not disengaing fully.
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...9&cat=6&page=1
Mattj
To avoid having your threaded rod on the last threads you can do what Jon from TRE has a recommendation on his site, spacing the pin on the slave cylinder with a 1 - 1.5mm washer.
Or, Lancershop.com sells a longer slave sylinder rod if it is not disengaing fully.
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...9&cat=6&page=1
Mattj
I figure at some point, if you get too far out, then you could have issues with the clutch not being fully engaged with the clutch let out, right? Or am I off...
#15
Evolving Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 345
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My car doesnt roll foward but with my foot all the way down on the clutch, if I try to put it into first or second i'll get a vibration / bump feel...is should I move the engagement up? It's already really high i think.