Evil_1

iTrader: (1)

I know there's a few of you running the Forge Rs on alky. I'd like to know where you have yours set at, close to max, in the middle or towards the soft side. I know each car is going to be set up different but just wanted to get a cross section of where you guys have yours set at with alky. I just got done installing mine and am in the process of testing and tuning it for my car.

Ryu123

iTrader: (18)

I was running alky with the Forge RS. I was unable to set it where it would not surge/flutter driving around town without going WOT. It may have been just me but I ended up replacing it with the APS DV.

Evil_1

iTrader: (1)

When it surge/futter, does the car just bucks. I haven't experience any bucking yet but one thing that's new to me is when I'm at half thortle and let off, the bov makes a distinctive sound, sounds kind of like a rattle snake in the motor, at WOT it makes the normal BOV sound. Is this normal for this valve? When I have the 1G, I'd only hear the same sound with the BOV venting. After I crushed my 1G, it too was making the snake sound at part throttle.

dan628

iTrader: (5)

I dont know if you have a MBC or not, but my car used to buck when I had it hooked up the the BOV as a souce, but since changing it to use the turbo as a source it doesnt buck at all. I don't have alky, but I thought maybe this would help.

hawjdude

iTrader: (5)

All man, you should called me up first before you bought one. I have the Forge RS bov sitting in my room. See ya around.

Ryu123

iTrader: (18)

Yes at partial throttle, the car would buck really bad. Especially in the higher gears like 4th and 5th. No matter how I adjusted it, I was not able to get rid of the bucking driving the way I drive. At WOT it works great but who drives around at WOT all the time?

Yes the "rattle snake" sound is normal or at least I think so cause I was hearing that too with mine.

Evil_1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. My boost controller is tee of the bov. If that should happen. I'll switch.

Evil_1

iTrader: (1)

Had I known you had one sitting around. I would off taken it of your hands. How come you don't have it hooked up to your car? I crushed my 1G and may have crushed it a little to much. It held boost better than uncrushed but I was having idle issues with the crushed 1G so had to order new BOV.

Anarchy99

iTrader: (196)

I've had an RS on my car since day one and never had any of the problems here it took some fine tuning but no prob's with it at all, i think you had to many clicks on the valve i did and backed it off some till it was smoth and held boost till red line.

hawjdude

iTrader: (5)

Well I have forge's older version on my car, its a bypass and it works. I bought the RS bov and it still stalls and you know all the other bad things with bov. I'm just keeping it for the future when I go AEM. Can't wait until spring.

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Then there's something else wrong with your car that needs to be remedied, because the Forge doesn't cause that if it's in full recirculation mode.

hawjdude

iTrader: (5)

I didn't buy the full recirculation kit. I just bought the bov.

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

The ONLY Forge RS to use is the recirc one

You can adjust it from stock like to a full race valve

It is an amazing unit and I have used it on at least 40 cars with perfect 100% driveability

Evil_1

iTrader: (1)

Al, where do you recommend having the valve set at for daily driving with alky @ 25 psi? on the soft side, towards the middle or closer to the max?

Warrtalon

iTrader: (6)

Man, you really just need to go test it. It makes no sense to ask what others do, because every car is different and every person has different tolerance levels. Start in the middle and see how it feels. If it's too stiff and surges too much, then back it off. If there's no surging and not holding boost very well, then crank it some more. It will take less time to test it out than it will to wait for this thread to get answered.