Greddy Type RS One Spring od
Jun 10, 2006, 09:07 PM
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Greddy Type RS One Spring mod
Well, after losing an allen wrench in a difficult to reach place, i was able to remove my type rs, which was causing low idle/stalling/woop woop woop woop woop issues.
Tools:
allen wrench
philips screwdriver
channel locks
string
pan to collect radiator fluid
socket wrench with long socket
reading skills
I removed the air intake scoop with a philips head screwdriver
I loosened the radiator cap to release the pressure with channel locks.
I removed the radiator hose, making sure to hold the hose up as I did it.
I also made sure to keep a pan under the radiator, as it WILL leak.
I used a string to wrap around the hose and pulled it back and tied the other end around the battery to keep it outta the way.
I removed the small vacuum tube that's connected to the bov.
I used a philips screw driver to remove the recirc. hose.
I used an allen wrench to remove the 2 screws holding the bov to the turbo.
Now that the bov is out, make sure not to lose the blue wafer piece, it may detach itself.
Remove the nut on the top of the bov and make sure to keep the nut and flat washer together. I'm not sure of the socket size needed to do this, but a long socket will do the trick.
Using the same socket wrench, remove the vacuum tube on the bov.
Now, using an allen wrench, remove the 6? screws in the bov.
The last screw will be difficult, as the springs will try to pop out. Simply hold the bov together and continue removing the last screw.
Once all the screws are removed, you will be able to easily open the bov, revealing the 2 springs, and a flat piece of metal to push down on the springs.
Remove only the small spring (inside of the big spring).
Replace cover for bov.
Put the 6? screws back into the bov with the allen wrench.
Verify that all 6? screws are screwed in very tightly.
Reinstall the vacuum tube with the socket wrench.
Reinstall the flat washer followed by the nut to the bov, and screw into your personal liking (1 turn past snug for me... more on that later).
Going back to the engine, install the blue wafer piece on the bov port closest to the turbo.
Place the bov on top of the wafer.
Use an allen wrench to reapply the screws to the bov locking it down tightly.
Reinsert the recirc hose and tighten with a philips screwdriver.
Insert the vacuum tube to the small hole on the bov.
Reattach the radiator hose with channel locks.
Reinstall the air intake scoop.
Close the hood
Start your evo, and prepare to be stunned. After following this process, my poor idle/stall issues disapeared! It felt like there was a nice gain in performance (maybe my imagination, maybe not) and the flutter issues... well.... they're still there, but it only flutters 3 times now instead of 5. If anyone has any idea on how to rectify this, pm me, or comment.
There may be other ways to do this, and if you notice an error, make sure to point it out. I tried to be as detailed and step by step as possible. Enjoy!
Tools:
allen wrench
philips screwdriver
channel locks
string
pan to collect radiator fluid
socket wrench with long socket
reading skills
I removed the air intake scoop with a philips head screwdriver
I loosened the radiator cap to release the pressure with channel locks.
I removed the radiator hose, making sure to hold the hose up as I did it.
I also made sure to keep a pan under the radiator, as it WILL leak.
I used a string to wrap around the hose and pulled it back and tied the other end around the battery to keep it outta the way.
I removed the small vacuum tube that's connected to the bov.
I used a philips screw driver to remove the recirc. hose.
I used an allen wrench to remove the 2 screws holding the bov to the turbo.
Now that the bov is out, make sure not to lose the blue wafer piece, it may detach itself.
Remove the nut on the top of the bov and make sure to keep the nut and flat washer together. I'm not sure of the socket size needed to do this, but a long socket will do the trick.
Using the same socket wrench, remove the vacuum tube on the bov.
Now, using an allen wrench, remove the 6? screws in the bov.
The last screw will be difficult, as the springs will try to pop out. Simply hold the bov together and continue removing the last screw.
Once all the screws are removed, you will be able to easily open the bov, revealing the 2 springs, and a flat piece of metal to push down on the springs.
Remove only the small spring (inside of the big spring).
Replace cover for bov.
Put the 6? screws back into the bov with the allen wrench.
Verify that all 6? screws are screwed in very tightly.
Reinstall the vacuum tube with the socket wrench.
Reinstall the flat washer followed by the nut to the bov, and screw into your personal liking (1 turn past snug for me... more on that later).
Going back to the engine, install the blue wafer piece on the bov port closest to the turbo.
Place the bov on top of the wafer.
Use an allen wrench to reapply the screws to the bov locking it down tightly.
Reinsert the recirc hose and tighten with a philips screwdriver.
Insert the vacuum tube to the small hole on the bov.
Reattach the radiator hose with channel locks.
Reinstall the air intake scoop.
Close the hood
Start your evo, and prepare to be stunned. After following this process, my poor idle/stall issues disapeared! It felt like there was a nice gain in performance (maybe my imagination, maybe not) and the flutter issues... well.... they're still there, but it only flutters 3 times now instead of 5. If anyone has any idea on how to rectify this, pm me, or comment.
There may be other ways to do this, and if you notice an error, make sure to point it out. I tried to be as detailed and step by step as possible. Enjoy!
Last edited by azredevo; Jun 10, 2006 at 09:18 PM.
Dec 13, 2006, 02:51 PM
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I am about to bring this post back up from the dead.. but I myself have a GReddy Type RS BOV in my car and i am experiencing the same issues.. (Low idle, stalling)
What is the cause of this, and why do I have to take a spring out of the BOV? will this help resolve the problem then?
What is the cause of this, and why do I have to take a spring out of the BOV? will this help resolve the problem then?
Dec 13, 2006, 05:55 PM
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My RS performs 100% when the diaphragm doesn't stick the piston open and create a leak.... I am currently addressing this matter with Lancershop and Greddy. Hope to have an answer too...
I always had the two springs. Perfect idle. Flutter is there no matter what under partial throttle and boost, but when i utilize my full 21psi, you hear a nice loud and deep whoooshhh sound. No flutter at all. You just have to play around with the adjustment screw to find the best position...
I always had the two springs. Perfect idle. Flutter is there no matter what under partial throttle and boost, but when i utilize my full 21psi, you hear a nice loud and deep whoooshhh sound. No flutter at all. You just have to play around with the adjustment screw to find the best position...
Dec 13, 2006, 06:01 PM
#4
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it helped me, but i was since ***** slapped and told to turn the thing around. the shop installed it backwards (they said it was to hold boost better). ive since swapped back to the stock bov. it works great.
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