michaelrc51

iTrader: (37)

You aren't the first person to cure it by changing lots of parts. BUT, the majority of the people that had it go away also had it return pretty shortly after.

Just ask yourself why Mitsubishi would redesign a part?

turbotalawd

iTrader: (11)

Understood. But the bracket is not a moving part, therefore the noise cannot just dissapear and re-appear due to the bracket. I will post if/when the noise returns.

llDemonll

iTrader: (21)

Food for thought: My noise was not there when the car was cold, it only appeared when things were warm.

GG06MR

iTrader: (9)

What these other guys have told you is true. The noise comes over XX,XXX miles from the belt rubbing on something it shouldn't, which the bracket fixes, so be sure to write down the bracket part number for future reference.

CeliOnce

iTrader: (3)

Does the power steering pump have to come off to replace the bracket?

CeliOnce

iTrader: (3)

I got the new bracket, but it looks the exact same as my current one. Is there any discernible difference between the two? They even have the same number stamped in.

llDemonll

iTrader: (21)

I didn't compare mine so I'm not sure. They do look very similar though from what I remember. Can't comment on the stamping on them

lghtngyello03

iTrader: (44)

Having this same issue on my 03 Evo 8. Except mine is rubbing on the back of the timing belt tensioner pulley. Replaced the belt and all timing components 2x, and the noise never went away, it also eats at the back of the belt. Just pulled my cylinder head off to do a head gasket and studs....glad I found this thread.

I looked on STM's website, and it appears that the engine mount bracket isn't IX specific. It's universal for an 8 or a 9.

So, that being said ^, changing the bracket and tensioner pulleys should resolve my issue of the noise and the belt being eaten by the tensioner pulley. Right?

llDemonll

iTrader: (21)

Should, yes. Mine has had no issue since replacement

EV09AWD

How often Does the steering fluid require changing

silverevo05

iTrader: (7)

ever since getting the bracket done, and all timing components (at the dealer), I get this OFF RHYTHMIC TICK NOISE which I cant tell where it comes from.
either cyl 4 or 1 (closest to timing components) or timing area

They apparently took the PS pump off as I had a dent on the bottle afterwards. I read it might be PS fluid, but that id full

CaptainSquirts

iTrader: (3)

So Im buying all my timing stuff for timing belt/serpentine belt/water pump replacement, pretty much the whole shebang. I have an Evo 9 with that idle noise and I read from here that it's most likely the bracket. I noticed the bracket comes with the idler pulley. So if it's sure the bracket I'll get it, but don't want to spend the extra 150 if it isn't the bracket and I can just buy the idler pulley.

So my main question - If i replace everything timing related except the bracket, will noise be fixed or will only bracket do it?

2nd question - Any recommendations on anything else to be swapped out besides all the belts/pullies/waterpump since all that area is being accessed? Don't want to be digging into that area once this job is done.

Evo9isLife

The bracket was revised by Mitsu because of the noise/belt rubbing issue, and replacing the bracket fixes it for most people. I had the belt whine noise but it was pretty mild, not nearly as bad as some others have posted in here. After swapping the bracket it seems to be gone but the 4G is so noisy already its hard to tell what you are hearing sometimes lol. Since you're going to be in there anyways its probably a good idea to get the bracket and swap them. Would suck to do all that work and still have the noise.

Also, check and make sure there is no oil seeping out from behind the lower cover near the oil pan before you take it apart. I saw some oil in that area on mine and bought a front main seal and oil pump seal before taking it apart. Turned out to be a leaking oil pump seal so I saved myself a lot of headaches from doing the job over again.

CaptainSquirts

iTrader: (3)

Good deal, thanks!

On another note, what would be the best way to check out the front main seal/oil pump seal? I've never been in the timing area myself so it's all new territory. If it's a lot to explain I'll just search evom, im sure it's mentioned somewhere.

Evo9isLife

The only way to physically see the main seal is to take everything apart all the way down to the balance belt sprocket (behind the crank sprocket and trigger plate). The oil pump seal is right behind the oil pump sprocket which you can see once you take the lower cover off, its easy. But of course if they are leaking you would notice some oil in the area I mentioned and you can just get under the car and look without taking anything apart.

Another tip: Know which bolts will need thread sealant. The middle bolt in the bracket, both bolts on the hydraulic auto tensioner, and the bolt for the balance belt tensioner.

This is a great video made by a member here. Will give you a good idea what to expect when you get in there