Idle relearn procedure
#1
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Idle relearn procedure
I took my Evo 8 to the dealer for a turbo coolant hose recall about 1.5 years ago. Immediately after the dealer quickly installed the hose (it only took 3 days!), my car would act like it was going to die for the first 30 seconds it was on. My initial reaction was to take it back to the dealer, but after remembering how incompetent they were, I decided to wait it out and see if my car could relearn to idle on its own.
The problem never really went away. I couldn't find information on evom about the idle relearn, so I gave up caring about it since it was a minor problem.
I randomly saw this Evo X thread that included the X's idle relearn procedure.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lls-start.html
I followed the procedure about 2 weeks ago, and my car hasn't had any idle problems since. I thought this might be useful information for some people.
This is the excerpted idle relearn procedure from the thread.
f you got both reflashes and are still having problems, it is likely
the dealer did not properly perform the idle relearn procedure. Here it
is from the TSB:
ETV RELEARN PROCEDURE
1. Start the engine and let it warm up. Use the MUT-III to confirm that the engine coolant temperature
exceeds 85o C (185o F). The A/C switch should be OFF for this procedure.
2. Repeat the following steps 3 times:
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and wait at least 10 seconds.
Restart the engine.
Leave the engine running after the third start.
3. Allow the vehicle to idle for a minimum of 15 minutes.
The ETV Relearn Procedure is complete.
As you can see, this is a pretty time consuming procedure, so I bet
most dealerships skip this step. Try it out yourself. Since you don't
have a MUT-III tool to confirm coolant temperature, just make sure it's
warmed up all the way to the mid-point. Good luck!
The problem never really went away. I couldn't find information on evom about the idle relearn, so I gave up caring about it since it was a minor problem.
I randomly saw this Evo X thread that included the X's idle relearn procedure.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lls-start.html
I followed the procedure about 2 weeks ago, and my car hasn't had any idle problems since. I thought this might be useful information for some people.
This is the excerpted idle relearn procedure from the thread.
f you got both reflashes and are still having problems, it is likely
the dealer did not properly perform the idle relearn procedure. Here it
is from the TSB:
ETV RELEARN PROCEDURE
1. Start the engine and let it warm up. Use the MUT-III to confirm that the engine coolant temperature
exceeds 85o C (185o F). The A/C switch should be OFF for this procedure.
2. Repeat the following steps 3 times:
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and wait at least 10 seconds.
Restart the engine.
Leave the engine running after the third start.
3. Allow the vehicle to idle for a minimum of 15 minutes.
The ETV Relearn Procedure is complete.
As you can see, this is a pretty time consuming procedure, so I bet
most dealerships skip this step. Try it out yourself. Since you don't
have a MUT-III tool to confirm coolant temperature, just make sure it's
warmed up all the way to the mid-point. Good luck!
Last edited by j1; Jan 9, 2009 at 04:24 PM.
#4
Evolved Member
It may be that whatever was wrong with your car went away but I don't think it had anything to do with following this procedure. Twenty minutes of driving in stop and go traffic does the same thing.
#5
Evolved Member
iTrader: (23)
The procedure above won't do anything at all on your car. It is for electronic throttle vehicles only. The throttle body runs a test and park on those models at key on; the three on process when warm sets its "new" zero point condition.
Your throttle body is fully mechanical and not influenced at all by this. The key letters are ETV (electronic throttle valve).
The above is correct, warm the engine up and allow up to ten minutes of idle time (added up during driving is OK). The alternative is to clean the throttle and IAC out then unhook the battery which will reset the zero point.
I would be more concerned that someone fooled with the secondary air screw or something. The idle would have re-learned a long time ago if that were all it was.
edit: holy necro
Your throttle body is fully mechanical and not influenced at all by this. The key letters are ETV (electronic throttle valve).
The above is correct, warm the engine up and allow up to ten minutes of idle time (added up during driving is OK). The alternative is to clean the throttle and IAC out then unhook the battery which will reset the zero point.
I would be more concerned that someone fooled with the secondary air screw or something. The idle would have re-learned a long time ago if that were all it was.
edit: holy necro
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#8
Did the idle go back to normal for you guys? Did you do anything to resolve it, or did it automatically go back to normal after a while?
My situation is sort of the reverse. I installed a new IAC, but the idle is lingering in the 1500-2000. It'll jump up and down. And sometimes it'll take a while to drop down to 1500. I've read that it takes aprox 100+ miles before it'll go back to normal, but not sure how true that is, I have yet to reach that miles currently. But then I've read that I would have to actively have someone go into the OBD2 and adjust the BISS on the TB.
My situation is sort of the reverse. I installed a new IAC, but the idle is lingering in the 1500-2000. It'll jump up and down. And sometimes it'll take a while to drop down to 1500. I've read that it takes aprox 100+ miles before it'll go back to normal, but not sure how true that is, I have yet to reach that miles currently. But then I've read that I would have to actively have someone go into the OBD2 and adjust the BISS on the TB.
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