GgreyEVOIX

iTrader: (5)

Well after years of debating what to do I've decided to mod my EVO IX now that there are tons of options for aftermarket mods like cams, tbe, etc......

This is my daily driver so my goal with it is to have a safe and reliable 300whp on pump 91, I'm only going to run on pump fuel. I'm not looking for peak numbers either, I want a fat and useable powerband. Over 90% of my driving is on city streets so a fat powerband is very important. Also I live in Southern California so I have to and also want to keep the noise down.

I have two setups in mind, both with stock turbo and stock cat-back exhaust:

#1 Open source tune, DC downpipe, Invidia 02, ETS 3'' FMIC, ETS LICP & UICP, ETS intake, Walbro FP, Hallman MBC

#2 Open source tune, GSC s1 cams, DC downpipe, ETS LICP, walbro FP, Denso 720cc, Hallman MBC, ARP head studs & rod bolts

I'm leaning towards #2 but I want some advice from you guys. Is there anything you would change or add to reach my goals? I'm sure doing the cams will net me gains under the curve which matter most to me.

mx4life85

iTrader: (38)

So there is no way you'll do the 3in exhaust? That would help your spool-up tremendously. Also, its going to be harder to make that much power with such a small exhaust piping.

VtexGt3

iTrader: (14)

you really have no need for a new FMIC.. the pipes are a good idea though. on your car, full TBE, intake, boost controller, cams and a tune will get you up there without a problem. the studs are a good idea to put in since you'll have the head open anyways, but just remember you'll be in the market for a new clutch soon down the line if you do cams and all that.

Do a search on here cause this has been covered a lot, and you might get flamed for asking this question so be prepared.

jjm4life

iTrader: (14)

300whp and the oem clutch is nothing to be concerned about

youve been on evom since 2005, you should look around some more and realize that it doesnt take much to reach 300whp esp. on a evo9.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

With a IX, 300whp is easy. Although, I'd change a few things.

P&P stock manifold, eBay o2 housing (cheap and works), LICP (any brand), Walbro 255, Buschur TBE with HFC and magnaflow muffler, GSC S1 or Works 269/269 cams, Perrin cone filter kit, Hallman MBC and tune to about 22-23psi.

You should be good with that. 300whp is nothing. Many things you have listed like head studs, rod bolts, injectors, FMIC and UICP are totally unecessarey for 300whp. FMIC are only useful if you're making alot of power OR do HPDE's. They do look nice, and won't hurt power, but they'll just make you build boost slightly, probably unoticabley, slower.

grillpt

iTrader: (24)

nevermind

GgreyEVOIX

iTrader: (5)

About the FMIC and IC pipes, I didn't add it to the list just as a "show" mod. My reasoning behind it is that where I live currently in socal it's pretty much hot as hell year round so the FMIC and pipes were added only for consistancy. Also my boost fluctuates a lot because of the cheap connecting ic hoses that expand under boost. The locals around here advised me to go FMIC and IC pipes for those two reasons.

Oh and I totally forgot about the mani, thats def a good idea to P&P it!

btownsoccer22

iTrader: (6)

Go Nisei

o-townFLA

iTrader: (4)

I changed what you should get above, which should net you around 310 +-5hp. When I was tuned w/ the above mods except the O2 and the UICP I pulled 316/310

I have cossie's now and netted 330/320 at 21psi on 91octane, so the above should get you close to those numbers if you do go the cam route

john.schuber

iTrader: (3)

ETS's intake is the only thing they make that is sub par so drop that. I would get the perrin intake and piping kit. No need for a uicp it really provides minimal gains. You should definitely get a three inch exhaust and a test pipe preferably. Go with an o2 dump it makes more power. I would get the ets lp2 proven to make the most power. You should also run a boost controller. Add some good cams and you should be there if not port your exhaust manifold. You also don't need a front mount unless you track it that's the only why its going to get heat soaked.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Well living in a hot climate can justify an FMIC. I just figured, unless you're going to be prone do heatsoak (HPDE or hot climate) then an FMIC can help

The only reason I upgraded my FMIC is because even on the street on a hot summer day, I was able to notice my car becoming increasingly slower after a few hard drives, even after a few pulls. It just heatsoaks like crazy. But you won't notice a HUGE differance in FMIC's back to back.

Good luck! 300whp is super easy, and makes for a pretty fun street car!

Pure Playaer

iTrader: (14)

You can make 300 hp with an intake and a boost controller on an Evo IX (which is what your avatar says you own).. Why the hell would you get injectors / cams / other random useless mods like headstuds when you can make it for about 2 grand less

vmrevo9

iTrader: (33)

well 300 whp is nothing for a IX. look at my sig. i have minimal parts and i hit 306 on a dynodynamics dyno. apparently aslo known as a heartbreaker.

my mods are
2.75" Espelir DP
3" Perrien HFC
3"Junb.l catback
MBC set to 23psi
LICP
and at the time i had my stock air box with a K&N drop in filter and small cut out on the lid of the box.
Walbro 255 fuel pump.
Mellon Tune

i still have stock cams, stock FMIC, Stock o2 housing, stock upper intercooler pipe and stock intake pipe

306.hp and 320tq. it's not hard to hit 300whp on a IX

o-townFLA

iTrader: (4)

check this threaad out that I started. It pretty much the same path your goin. Its filled with dyno graphs and some what informative...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...cosworths.html


just with these mods produced 316/305
car Evo IX
ETS 3" intercooler
ETS licp
Forge MBC
cone filter
Megan TBE w/ resonated test pipe
Walbro 255

JDMevoBOOST

iTrader: (37)

300whp is cake. Open filter, HFC, Exhaust, Tune....and you'll still have your warranty. The cams would kind of destroy that warranty so stay away if 300whp is your goal.