Need Help Removing Water Pump Pulley
#1
Need Help Removing Water Pump Pulley
I have a tool order and it should be here tomorrow. But just in case if that tool doesn't help, can anyone who has changed their timing belt without removing the whole engine out of the engine bay help me out? I just bought a set of long deep offset box end wrench. Thanks
#2
iTrader: (10)
Just remove the motor mount, then get two 10mm box-end or open-end wrenches, and go to town BEFORE you remove the acc belt. If you already have the acc belt off, wrap it back around the pulley and have someone hold it tight to keep it from spinning while you wreck your fingers trying to get the pulley bolts off. If you think getting them off is hard, wait till you try and put them back on!
#3
Just remove the motor mount, then get two 10mm box-end or open-end wrenches, and go to town BEFORE you remove the acc belt. If you already have the acc belt off, wrap it back around the pulley and have someone hold it tight to keep it from spinning while you wreck your fingers trying to get the pulley bolts off. If you think getting them off is hard, wait till you try and put them back on!
#6
Evolved Member
I had already removed the serpentine belt when I realized the water pump pulley bolts were still tight, and tight they were. I couldn't hold the belt around the pulley tight enough with one hand to keep the pulley from turning. So I went with two wrenches. That will get you three bolts loose. Since you have the motor mount off you can raise/lower the engine some to obtain the best access. Finally, when I tried the last bolt, it was loose. Whew!
When installing, there is a very narrow lip on the water pump flange that centers the pulley. Look at the pulley wrong and it falls to the floor. I cut the head off of a bolt with the same threads. The stub you make needs enough length so that it sticks through the pulley sufficiently to allow you to unscrew it with you fingers once the other three bolts are in place but otherwise as short as possible. With this screwed into the flange the holes are aligned and the pulley isn't as likely to fall.
When installing, there is a very narrow lip on the water pump flange that centers the pulley. Look at the pulley wrong and it falls to the floor. I cut the head off of a bolt with the same threads. The stub you make needs enough length so that it sticks through the pulley sufficiently to allow you to unscrew it with you fingers once the other three bolts are in place but otherwise as short as possible. With this screwed into the flange the holes are aligned and the pulley isn't as likely to fall.
Last edited by barneyb; Jul 22, 2009 at 03:10 PM.
#7
Got the belt OFF! Just a little clarification. So I set the cam gears, crank shaft, oil pump and balance shaft to TDC. I remove the the bolt close to the starter above the flat steel. I inserted the phillip screw driver in and it went all the way in. I loosen the tensioner and remove the belt. Now I'm going to remove the balance tensioner and the belt. Does that sounds about right???
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#10
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We lifted the motor up with the pass side mount off.
I was on the bottom holding the pulley on and straight and my friend was up top feeding the bolts in. Worked out OK, but was still a PITA
#11
Evolved Member
Got the belt OFF! Just a little clarification. So I set the cam gears, crank shaft, oil pump and balance shaft to TDC. I remove the the bolt close to the starter above the flat steel. I inserted the phillip screw driver in and it went all the way in. I loosen the tensioner and remove the belt. Now I'm going to remove the balance tensioner and the belt. Does that sounds about right???
When installing the new timing belt you will find that the cam sprockets have turned toward each other at the top big time. Clamp the belt to one of the cam sprockets (I use small vise grips - not too tight). Align the two sprockets with their timing marks and clamp the belt to the second sprocket with no slack in between the two sprockets (using your third hand). Then to get enough slack to install the belt down below, put two wrenches on the sprocket bolts and stick a board in between. Simple. Once, all this is done, the belt likes to jump on the crank sprocket so mark it as soon as it is on so you know if this happens.
#12
Evolved Member
#13
Oh, one more thing. The power steering needs to be removed to get access to the timing idler pulley right? There's this one long bolt on the top that is a PITA because I don't want to break that bolt. I'm still trying to work it out slowly a few turn an hour or so. Spray some PB Blaster lastnight and hopefully it should be better for me to remove today. Again, thanks a lot for the tips guys.
#14
I'm so mad at myself! I lost one f***ing water pump bolt! Looked everywhere. Even bought a magnetic metal grabber. Can't find it. Now I have to wait until Monday or so unless I can use an alternative bolt that shape like it and is the same length. Anyone has that long bolt for the water pump you can ship to me next day? If local, I can pick it up other wise I'm going to have to go to the stealership to get one for $13 and I'll get it by Monday.
#15
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iTrader: (5)
fwiw - if you are by yourself and don't have a helper and have the belts completely off you can actually use one of those oil filter wrenches that uses a long piece of rubber belt style that allows you to adjust length and then use leverage to keep it tight.
Just snake it around the pulley in the right direction and you can hold that w/ your left hand while tightening down the bolts w/ a adjustable angle headed gear wrench.
Just snake it around the pulley in the right direction and you can hold that w/ your left hand while tightening down the bolts w/ a adjustable angle headed gear wrench.