apagan01

iTrader: (299)

True !

evo3gsx

iTrader: (20)

Thought I would bump this thread because I've read a lot of good things about the Rotella T 5w40, but not much from the way of the Evo community. Coming from an STI, where Rotella is the oil of choice, I am surprised to see the lack of information and UOA's on these forums.

After reading on bobistheoilguy, I would like to switch up my engine oil (currently running Mobil 10w30) and I know Rotella is a very popular choice for high-performance turbocharged applications. So what are the thoughts on running Rotella T in our 4G63?

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

though i've heard very good things about this oil as well i firmly believe if the motor is factory spec you should go with the factory weight oils. i know a lot of people are fine running 10w40 though.

ditto what you said though, i also read on bitog about stis who review the rotella. it's actually quite popular with the mzr (ms3 ms6) motors as well - the UOAs always come out really great for them. i thought about it, but i'm just going to stick with 5w30 for now

discopotato03

Show me where Mobil 1 is categorized as a group 3 oil (hydrolized mineral oil) , everything I've ever seen shows them to be group 4 base stock synthetic oils .

A .

apagan01

iTrader: (299)

they usto be group 4, but they have shown through UOA's to have lowered the quality a notch.

no company will disclose what group of base stock oils they use that is propietary infor ,,, however anyone educated enough can tell what base oils are being used through UOA's


i can tell you right now that most oils you find at the stores are not high quality synthetics i would venture to say 100% of them are not, why because there is no way you can make tons of money selling 7 dollar quarts of oil, and nedless say 10 dollar racing oil quarts in stores

discopotato03

Well mine doesn't come out of plastic bottles , it comes from a 44 gallon drum .
Maybe thats why it costs $16.50 a litre into my clean reused plastic container .
It may also be the reason why the bike Mobil 1 oils are more expensive than the car ones .

A .

If I get enthusiastic I'll get some analysed and get back .

211Ratsbud

iTrader: (1)

I am thimking about a oil analysis for you guys with Rotella oil : I will dump the current oil, do one full oil change with the rotella, and change it again with more rotella after 1000-2000 miles on the first rotella change. I had a WRX that used a stock td04 knocking down 323wtq on Rotella 5-40 for a couple years. Ive been on NASIOC and as others have mentioned its becoming the "grail". If its suitable for diesel engines and heavy duty gasoline engines which it does say, then I think the 4g qualifies as a heavy duty gas engine. Especially given all the hot rodding we do. Im catalyst free myself so clogging something is the last thing im worried about.

Factory weight conditions assumes a more conservative driving habbit, and has to include an oil which will warm up in a reasonable time. If you like to beat teh **** out of your car, you have to consider it might take a bit more to warm it up because you are using an oil which is a touch more viscous. 5/30 > 10-30 is negligable by my uneducation. 5/30 > 20/40 may take more time. I am a firm believer that a 5/40 will be a good compromise to increasing oil weight, and daily driving. However the difference in the cold/hot weights, from what i have read do leave it susceptable to breaking down a little quicker... factor in driving habbits(frequency of oil change)= healthier engine??!!!!???

vince_w2004

iTrader: (17)

I have heard that Rotella T6 is great for turbos with thrust bearings. And great for managing heat. Buddy of mine said its probably the best oil for turbocharged engines you can buy off the shelf.

But I have also been told that its unnecessary especially in an evo.

Ive been running Mobil 1 in my crate oem mivec swapped evo 8 for 7k now and I'm not to impressed as to how its held up.

I still think AMSOIL is were its at. Idk maybe I'm wrong but I'm still gonna give AMSOIL a shot.

BoostedAWD25

When i ran mobil 1 syn 10w-30 it turned dark as hell on me i even had a k&n gold performance oil filter and i only had 2k miles on it street car but i did do alot of wot pulls but still it sucks the facts are there and research and its def not stronger then rotella t6! I just got rid of that mobil junk and changed my oil to rotella t6 synthetic 5w-40 cause i heard nothing but good stuff about it so i wanted to give it a try but im only using it since its winter out here cause 5w is low but it has that 40 and tests shown its protects better then 15w-40!

Here is the full information about this oil= http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...rotella_t6.pdf

i got about 5 quarts of it for $27 at walmart tax included!!!

the flashpoints in the oils celcius converted to fahrenheit=

Shell Rotella t6 syn= 435.2f

Amsoil Dominator
5w-20 = 437f
10w-30= 453f
20w-50= 453f

Amsoil 20w-50= 451f

BradPenn=
ow-30= 385f
10w-30 10w-40 10w-50= 400f
20w-50= 420f

Royal Purple flashpoint 400f Royal Purple Racing Oil flashpoint 420f

Castrol Syntec ow20 threw 10w-40= 392f

Mobil 1 syn
15-50= 449.6f
10w-30= 446f
5w-30= 437f
5w-20= 442.4f
0w-40= 446f


Valvoline Fully Synthetic=
ow-20= 428f
5w-20= 429.8f
5w-30 and 10w-30= 433.4f

Valvoline Not Street Legal Synthetic=
5w-30= 460.4f
10w-30= 478.4f
20w-50= 500f

Valvoline vr-1 racing motor oil
10w-30= 429.8f
20w-50= 478.4f

So i see mobil 1 is better in flashpoint then the shell im using but i only plan on using it for winter time and the shell does contain more zinc then the mobil also has a better flashpoint then most oils i stated here and i would still choose bradpenn over mobil 1 even though mobil has a higher flashpoint because it has more zinc in it and forccedperformance even said its really good to use. Amsoil 100% synthetic and racing oils are expensive and 20w-50 oils are too thick for winter time. My car is not heavily modified or built motor so no reason to run racing oil either.




Rotella t6 5w40 it's API certified SM so it's fine to use , they just market this oil more for the truck industry being they have this market tied up pretty good. they don't call it million mile oil for nothing, this oil withstands 35+ psi of boost and 18:1 compression ratio just imagine the stress thats put on the bearings.

BoostedAWD25

Rotella t6 5w40 it's API certified SM so it's fine to use , they just market this oil more for the truck industry being they have this market tied up pretty good. they don't call it million mile oil for nothing, this oil withstands 35+ psi of boost and 18:1 compression ratio just imagine the stress thats put on the bearings.

BoostedAWD25

Also people dont wanna use a 5w or 10w oil because the thicker weight is hiding all there leaks once they go thinner they see them and nobody wants to see stuff leaking! In winter time dsmers are still using thick oils but they dont know the damage thats being caused to there motors on cold startup when everything is starving for oil to come in. I say u shouldnt be leaking oil for one or trying to hide the problem by running heavier weight in your cars i can see someone running heavier stuff say on a track car or heavily modified car or built motor or a car that doesnt see winter.

Evo3573

iTrader: (25)

good info. I came from the sti world. Yes the world of spun bearings. Really not a matter of if, But a matter of when! I ran shell rotella t6 5w 40 for 30k miles. Hard miles to. Sold it with 94k On it with no problems.




I haven't put it in the evo yet because I seen the recomended oil weight of 10w30. But I have thought of running the shell rotella 10w30 what do you guys think of that? Or would I be best off just running the 5w40?

BoostedAWD25

Go for the shell rotella t6 synthetic 5w-40 in winter it will be fine and protect better then mostly all syn oils out there especially if u plan on racing it in winter or beating on it and then in summer bump the weight up. By the way does your evo have any mods?

Evo3573

iTrader: (25)

-Precision 880cc injectors-
-Hks 272s cams-
-Crower Titanium Springs and Retainers
-Cometic Head Gasket-
-Arp Head Studs-
-Aem intake-
-Hallman Mbc-
-Espirlir Jgt 500 Cat back-
-Greddy 3 inch inter cooler-
-Synapse bypass valve-
-Megan Down pipe-
-Clutch masters stage 4 clutch-
-Quaff Diff-

looking to do an fp red soon also


also how long have you been running it? and do you take your car to redline often?

BoostedAWD25

Its winter out here and i take my car out on only those dry winter road days but when i do im def goin krazy with it and everything seems fine! My car does sit outside 24/7 in winter time so i want to be sure it will be protected so i been using 5w-40 shell rotella t6 synthetic 5w is perfect for chicago winters we do see negatives out here also and with a car sitting outside in winter u wanna make sure that oil is flowing right away when u start it up. Mobil 1 fell off longtime ago! When i ran mobil 1 syn 10w-30 it turned dark as hell on me i even had a k&n gold performance oil filter and i only had 2k miles on it but i did do alot of wot pulls but still it sucks the facts are there and research and its def not stronger then rotella t6! I wish they made shell rotella t6 synthetic in 10w-40 so i can run it in summer time i just wouldnt feel comfortable running a 5w in summer time as it will only get thinner so in summer i plan on switching to 10w-40 or 15w-50. By the way with your mods u should be fine running t6 in winter time even if u gonna beat on it.