dinok

iTrader: (4)

so the shop i went to as many know i got a aftermarket alternator put in long story short bc of that it fried my computer caused a short and over charged and powered my car

got all the shorts fixed and relays ordered and a OEM ALTERNATOR

the other day when i was just checking up on the car i turned it on and the car was warmed up

but the rpms kept climbing higher and higher seemed as if TOO MUCH AMPAGE BEING PUMPED TO THE CAR so i turned the car off and tried to turn it on again and no go

is this bc of the alternator being aftermarket and not OEM ??

dinok

iTrader: (4)

...

Xenogenic

iTrader: (-1)

Protip: High Amps and Voltage isn't going to make your car go toyota and rev up and drive down the street...

evodood

iTrader: (1)

Protip2: Please help us help you better by using punctuation marks.

Xenogenic

iTrader: (-1)

dude you totally can't steal my protip thing.

barneyb

Amateur tip.....

It sounds like you idle control has gone South too. However, operating a car that has a known bad alternator is not wise.

Bobster22388

iTrader: (13)

Dude, how about helping someone out and not posting something that contributes nothing to solving the problem.

I agree with barneyb on this one, sounds like your IAC is probably bad, most likely one of the things fried when your other stuff went up.

evodood

iTrader: (1)

But it's hella funny though I wouldn't use it again though. Only funny for the purposes of this thread.

dinok

iTrader: (4)

the driving itself issue is gone

the idle climbs slowly and to me this aftermarket bull**** denos alternator cud be the issue for it happening bc too much power is being pushed out

if the IAC was bad then it wud climb a little more quicker wudnt it ??

dinok

iTrader: (4)

yes it actually is bc electricity it was controls ur vehicle and the setting in the ecu if tooo much ampage is being sent out then why wudnt the idle rise ??

and if the IAC needed ot be changed pretty suree that the idle wud drop not slowly rise but ill check it out see wats good when i put my new alterntor in

barneyb

Because idle control is based on the actual rpm of the engine, not on the voltage or current the alternator is putting out. The ECU, by way of a sensor, monitors the rpm and sends commands to the IAC, moving it open or closed until the target engine rpm, stored in the ECU's memory, is obtained.

dinok

iTrader: (4)

is it difficult to change the IAC myself ??

barneyb

As I recall .... two bolts and an electrical plug - don't loose the o-ring. In other words simple but the part is pricy.

But, you reported some wiring problems. That, also, could be the problem.

jcnel_evo8

iTrader: (2)

Ok ... Let's take a step back a little bit.

First of all the alternators nowadays are actually two parts. An actual alternator (as it fundamentally produces alternating current) and a voltage regulator. The voltage regulator changes all of the alternator electricity into a nice, filtered, regulated, Direct Current (DC) waveform that's set to between 12 ish to 14.5 ish Volts! The voltage regulator also charges the battery. It does this by pushing a static amount of voltage a little bit higher into the battery. As the battery fills up on power (through a chemical process, but I won't go into that) the voltage in the battery rises to the voltage it sees from the voltage regulator, and battery shuts off its own charging. (I love chemistry).

Think of Volts as the Pressure of the electric power and the Amperage as the water or fluid of the electric power.

Let me explain a little bit about electric power. Voltage equals Current Times Resistance. Let me say that in a couple different ways. Volts = Current x Resistance. Now let's get to the symbols used in the modern world. V = I x R. and finally V = IR.

There is another equation that talks specifically about power. Power = Current x Voltage or .. P = IV

V = Voltage and has the unit of Volts. Some examples are 6V (Six Volts), and 12V (Twelve Volts).
I = Current and has the unit of Amperes or Amps for short. Some examples are 1A (One Amp), 300mA (three hundred milliamps) which is also 0.3A (zero point three Amps).
R = Resistance measured in Ohms. If you measure both the Voltage and Current at the Alternator you can infer what the resistance of the car look like.
P = Power is measured in Watts.

In modern electronics most circuits expect the voltage at a constant, and then adjust what they want by ingesting more current. The equation tells us that the current, sucked in / injested / taken is representative of the resistance of the system. This means that contrary to your statement, the alternator does not officially PUMP MORE AMPERAGES, instead the car may be accepting more current for some reason.

The things that could be accepting more current are a bad piece of electronics (that look like a low resistance), or a short. A short is a very direct connection (very low resistance) to ground. Shorts heat things up nasty like, and think of them as producing a lot of heat, and in some cases melt and weld things. I don't think your alternator will weld stuff before itself breaks, but a short is nasty.

In terms of the Evo, idiots and hacks that don't know much about electronics usually produce accidental shorts and they are a bish to find in any car. Shorts can help do weird things to automotive electronics, like cause conditions that fry voltage regulators, and sometimes take out other electronics in the system.

My suggestion to you would be to unhook the alternator electric connections, and tie wrap up the alternator connection out of the way. Then plug your battery back in, and put a battery charger on it. After that, measure the voltage using a voltmeter at the battery terminals.

Have a friend go through the process of starting the car, and take a voltage reading at each stage of the starting process. First turn the key to the On position, and take a reading, turn to the run position and take a reading, finally start the car and take a reading. Yes you'll be running the car off of the battery and the battery charger, but don't run it for long (mebby 30sec. to a minute at max.) If at any time the battery voltage drops from like 12V to some really nasty lower voltage like 9V, 6V, or even 3V, you've got a short in your system.

If that seems like, plug the alternator back in. (Leave the battery charger on, but again don't run the car for long). Go through the starting process again and watch the voltage. If the voltage goes really high (like 16, 17+ Volts) then yes you have a bad alternator / voltage regulator.

My guess is you have a short, or bad wiring in the system, and its not the alternator.

Good luck,

~j.

dinok

iTrader: (4)

i had the whole wiring system checked and there is NO SHORT newhere thats for sure

and all the wiring is in tact and verified to be okay

i understand electricity very well its my trade loll im a high voltage electrician

my front ecu relay went bad and that is coming in a few days with a OEM alternator


a week ago the car drove FINE without a problem then all the sudden this happened and when i was flooring it one time the brake light and battery light came on THATS why i believe its the alternator

my front ecu relay since it went bad i cant turn on my headlights, interior cabin light and NONE of my ACD lights come on (im guessing due to the front ecu relay that powers the fuse box)

now all the sudden the rpms rise and when that happened in my honda once i changed the alternator everything was good