catman78

iTrader: (15)

So I have around 300 miles on my CC twin.
Seems like it's quite difficult to not get it to shudder a bit when slipping out of 1st.
Around 50% of the time I will get a chatter/shudder(cars shakes).
It feels like I'm using the same motion to lift off and throttle.

Would playing with the pedal adjustment help?
I took adjustment rod up a few turns, no real difference.

Thanks in advance...

BluEVOIX

iTrader: (69)

I had something similar. Really hard shudder during take off with a really loud moan! Sounded like an elephant blowing its trunks about the same loudness as honking the car horn and the shudder felt like a sever wheel hop.

Did every thing I could but nothing helped. I even tried launching it but the shudder hurt something in my 1st gear and it whines now in 1st gear. Eventually took it out and replaced it with ACT XTSS and CCI warrantied it.

I really liked how smooth the car shifted with that clutch. Also during the first 70 miles it was so quiet and engaged smooth. But after that the noises started followed by the shudder or I should probably just call it wheel hop because it was so freaking harsh.

catman78

iTrader: (15)

Great... Comp Clutch warrantied it?? Did they suggest anything?

I agree car shifts nice, however that shudder is annoying.

TIGERJC

iTrader: (8)

It gets better once you put over 1k miles on it and you can slip it better with minimum shutter. Are you using the heaver flywheel or the light wheel flywheel? Also what version twin do you have? This clutch is a race clutch and it will still chatter when taking off, but it does get much better once you start putting more miles on it. I was able to leave from a light with minimum to no chatter most of the time without stalling after I put 800 miles on the clutch.

BluEVOIX

iTrader: (69)

I made a video clip of it and they couldnt tell what it was. So i took it off and sent it to them for inspection. They are not sure what it was and I was told there was only 1 other incident with a similar problem in which they are working on figuring out.

Their service was great and they did their best to help me out. However in the end they took ownership of the situation and refunded me my money in full.

I put a little over 1500 miles on the clutch and it was not getting any better. These were not light chudders that people running unsprung puck disks get. These were exactly like getting a wheel hop! Imagine at a drag strip with a front wheel drive car and launching hard with dashboard breaking loose type wheel hop, only that your in an AWD car getting out of the drive way. I was barely applying any throttle with the rpms anywhere from 800 to 1000 rpms just to get the car to roll from a stop.

After reading the forums with people mentioning on other clutch types after a launch what ever issues they had was gone, I figured to give it a try. WRONG!!! The car chuddered hard, the dashboard felt like it was going to break off and hit me. I didnt hold it very long and got off it, but TOO LATE!!! Right after that, my first gear whines now. Its not really loud, but I notice it. It does shift in and out of 1st gear without problems and not other problems with pulls etc... other than that 1st gear whine.

BuiltS13

iTrader: (11)

Same issue with the same clutch, about 350 miles on it. At first it was ok, now it chatters more often. Not like wheel hop but just annoying..

catman78

iTrader: (15)

TIGERJC,

I'm using version A. Lightweight Fly.

I'm going to call them this morning.
I just spent $650 on install, it better go away after 1000 miles.

It's way annoying and should not be the case

BuiltS13,

I suggest you give them a call also...

catman78

iTrader: (15)

Just got off the phone with Kyle @ CC.

We discussed the following:

1. Basically, this shudder is normal with twin disc material on this clutch.

2. As far as being intermittent, he said it could be the temp difference between discs.
I'll have to test for myself if shudder is more/less prevalent after warm up.

3. I also asked if shudder is detrimental to drive train. Answer was no.

4. Pedal s/b adjusted so that engagement begins 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the floor. Adjustment of around 2 turns s/b made every 1000 miles or so depending on how it's being driven.

I'm a little disappointed having to deal with shudder but I guess this is part of the price to pay with this type of clutch.

On a positive note, I love the way it shifts, super smooth.. Decel growl is a bit annoying.

I think when it's time for a replacement I'll go back to single sprung disk.

Just my 2 cents..

EvoVIIIFL

iTrader: (39)

what RPM are you slipping at? for my exedy twin I would slip it around 1500..now with my triple I slip it around 2k and no shudder at all

catman78

iTrader: (15)

EvoVIIIFL,

Not sure of RPM. Honestly never looked, basically going by ear and feel.

Thanks for the advice. I'll pay attention to RPM's and test different ranges.

EvoVIIIFL

iTrader: (39)

I'd say start with 1500 and see how it goes

BuiltS13

iTrader: (11)

Its pretty much anywhere from 800-2000 with me ive tried everything but launching it.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

You can minimize shudder by taking off at a bit higher RPM, and once you get more miles on it the shudder should reduce. My 6 puck took a couple thousand miles before it smoothed out.

These "race" friction materials are very hard and take longer to wear in than organic and kevlar.

catman78

iTrader: (15)

Maybe that explains why for the 1st 100 miles or so there was no shudder. New smooth surface?

BuiltS13,
Yeah it seems like I've tried ever range also. If anything I've been trying to slip @ a higher RPM.

Reminds me of my old ZX9. Same type of feathering as a bike..

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

Pedal adjustment only effects where it grabs and how much separation the plates have when fully depresses (can effect shifting if separation isnt enough). I wont effect how it engages. Thats a function of rpm difference, CoF (and the difference between static and dynamic frictions), clamping forces (instantaneous at moment of slip), MoI, etc.