Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Update April 13th:I though I had fixed the problem after removing the 2nd shim on each pad on April 8th, but after bleeding the brakes again yesterday, the sticking is back. There appears to be some pressure in the brake lines when the brakes start sticking, I opened one of the bleeder screws on each of the front calipers and a bit of fluid came out. After releasing that pressure it was much easier to rotate the wheel by hand. What could cause this residual pressure? I went around driving a bit afterwards and after 2 hard stops (hard enough to hit ABS) and a couple normal stops the brakes weren't sticking, but just as I pulled into my neighborhood they started sticking again.

Update April 8th: The installation guide I was using when I swapped to the RC5 pads said to reuse the OEM shims, but didn't mention anything about new shims that came with the pads. So I took a chance and figured that it meant to use both. It was a tight squeeze getting the pads in but it didn't seem like they were dragging initially, so I left everything like that. I suspect the reason they didn't drag (not enough for me to notice at least) is because the brakes were due to be bled, so the air inside the lines was compressing to allow the brakes to release. Now that I've bled the brakes however, the pads would stay stuck to the rotors. I've removed the shim that came with the pads, leaving only the OEM shim in place, and all is well!

Hi all,

Yesterday I replaced my stock rubber brakes lines in favor is stainless steel ones. After this we bled the brakes per the recommended order (pass. rear, driver front, driver rear, pass. front). The problem is that the brakes now have a tendency to drag after I've released them. Also, the amount of pedal travel needed to stop normally for a red light/stop sign is practically none. I'm thinking of re-bleeding the brakes, are there any other things I can check?

Cheers,

autotechnica

All the time or just when the brakes warm up?

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

It seems to be mostly after theyve wrmed up

EDIT i just realized i posted this in the wrong section; meantto put it in brakes/wheels/suspension area. My bad; mods, please move this to the appropriate section.

dastallion951

Well let me add my 0.02 if the brakes are dragging, when u installed the pads, did you push the pistons in equally into the caliper? They could be sticking due to the pistons not being even. You lubed up the backs of the pads, yes? theres only so many reasons pads will drag? master cylinder good?

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

The pads have been installes since last summer, so I don't think it would have anything to do with the dragging? AFAIK the master cylinder is good, is there a way to check it?

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Update with more details:

On the first few stops with the car still cold, I barely have any brakes at all; the pedal nearly goes to the floor. After a few stops they then start dragging. It's getting worse too; after a 10min. drive to get home I could smell the brakes like I'd been bedding them in. It's obvious from looking at the rotors it's only the front brakes that are doing this; the rotor face is smooth and has a transfer layer from the pads. The rears look like they did before this all started, the rotors are all dirty and you can tell they haven't had any heat put into them in a while.

sunrichmond

iTrader: (5)

if its going to the floor you have a leak somewhere or air still in the line, look up the manual and see the bleeding procedure,i usually do the back first than the fronts, do you have someone helping you out when you pumping it? if you did all this and it still feel spongy , you probably mess up the master cly

dastallion951

well like the guy above said, now i got a stupid recommendation for u, you sure all your bleeder screws are tight? ...now when u bled the brakes, did u pump the pedal a few times before opening each bleeder valve?? and other then that did you keep an eye on the master cylinder level, cuz bleeding the brakes dependin on how much u bleed with 2 bleeder valves on each caliper, the fluid can go from full to bottom line real quick, so unless u kept refilling the master cylinder, you couldve gotten air bubbles in the fluid? best bet is to also double check the banjo fittings to the hard lines on the car for the ss lines, and also check where the tighten on to the calipers. Have someone push the pedal, check each fender well for any psshhhhh...haha good luck man report back ill help ya out

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

It's possible the fluid level got a little low when I replaced the first line.

I pulled off the 2 front wheels and it turns out I forgot to replace the little rubber cap on one of the bleeder valves, but I doubt that had anything to do with it. I double checked every bolt and made sure everything was tight, which they already were. I'll go for a quick drive and brake hard enough to get the ABS to kick in to bleed that, then I guess I'll bleed the whole thing again if it's not better.

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Update: i pulled out the front brake pads and sprayed the insides of the calipers down with brake cleaner to clean everything up. I then bled the whole system again. It seemed better for a while, but theyve started dragging again like they did before. Any other ideas?

dastallion951

other then check the caliper pistons, and make sure the dust boots on them arent all torn up...

andrewzaragoza

iTrader: (6)

^agreed! sounds like your piston is getting stuck. i suggest pulling out your pistons and cleaning everything.

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Pulling out the pistons... how do i do that?

dastallion951

your gonna need some hex style sockets u know the ones that look like an octagon haha...youll have to remove the calipers off the car,( bolts holdin it to spindle and bolts holding on brake hoses), once you remove that theres if i recall 4 bolts on the back of the caliper, that need to come off, now by the time youll get to that you need to know first....brembo sells a rebuild kit, cuz once u take it apart, it could leak once you put it back together. buy there rebuild kit first for both fronts....takin it apart isnt that hard, im sure brembo also has a how too on how to rebuild it.

Raptord

iTrader: (10)

Yea... nevermind then, don't have time to go through a whole rebuild, first track day is scheduled for next weekend. I have a few suggestions to try from some other people though, I think at least one of those should solve the problem.