Interested in a high output Alternator?
Nov 6, 2012, 02:50 PM
#1
Interested in a high output Alternator?
Interested in a High Output Alternator?
khmerpimpin and myself are working with an alternator vendor to get a high amperage alternator produced for Evo 8's and 9's. We have both discussed our needs for a higher output alternator and thus we've contacted several alternator vendors to come up with what we feel is the best alternator for the money.
- OEM Alternator is 90 amps... this unit is 180 amps.
- The alternator is NEW, not refurbed or rebuilt. No core required.
- The alternator is plug-n-play with same electrical connector and external case.
- The alternator has an underdrive pulley to give more output at lower engine speeds. *can be ordered with OEM size* **underdrive belt will require a new length belt**
- ETA for shipping - Build time is ~ 14 days for 10 alternators, expected time from order is 3-4 weeks.
- Price - PM for details
- Guy takes paypal and I assume credit/debit cards.
- 1 year warranty.
Nate at Excessive Amperage is the person behind the alternator work. People who have expressed interest or committed to buy the alternator will receive a bulk PM from me detailing how to pay Nate for the alternator and details for the payment. If you're not ready to buy just yet and want to wait for the OEM pulley size testing on the car, that's perfectly ok. The data will be presented when the time comes and you'll have the information to get in on the group buy pricing! If you're just not seeing this thread and would like to get in it, shoot me a PM for GB pricing and payment info.
We have 9 people committed so far, need 1 more to hit the 10 units required to get a price break on these. (updated 11/8/2012)
If you're interested please PM me and we'll get you down on the list. We're not making any money on these... we just want to have them made.
*****
and for those of you interested on WHY a non-audio Evo would want a high output alternator?
2 fuel pumps, 55 watt HIDs, trunk mounted 4lb lithium battery, aftermarket rad fan, additional gauges and sensors, and a Coil on Plug ignition system with additional dwell. My car will blow the spark out due to the voltage dropping from 14.3 cruising to 13.1 underload. The problem is worse at night (with electrical load) Rather than run a 1000 dollar CDI box or buy a voltage stabilizer (HKS DLI - which is a bandaid) FIX the problem for real with an alternator that is sized to supply enough current to keep your voltage stable.
******
Questions and Answers from Alternator Manufacturer
Can we use the OEM pulley rather than the underdrive unit?
I can use the OEM pulley on them if they would like. I dont know if they will charge at idle with the OEM pulley though.
Are there any options that customers can add to their order?
I can powdercoat most colors for $40 *If any are to be powdercoated, this will take an extra day or two if I have the color in stock.
I also can set them up with an external adjustable voltage regulator for $130. This will allow you to control the voltage anywhere between 13-20 volts.
What is the turn around time for you to ship the alternators from the time we place the order?
I will say 3 week build time for all 10 alternators. The time to build will depend on how many alts I have to get out at the time the order is placed as well. *If any are to be powdercoated, this will take an extra day or two if I have the color in stock. (R/TErnie: expect 3-4 weeks... I will give priority to customers who are dire need. For example... my car still runs... I can wait)
Will the electrical connector that is on the alternator be the same as the stock unit? 100% plug and play?
Yes, it will be 100% direct bolt on and the harness will plug right in. The only way it will not plug in is if they choose the external adjustable voltage option.
Will the external case be the same dimensions as the OEM unit? will it be bigger and harder to fit in the car?
I will custom build these in the factory housings so there will be no fitment issues. They will bolt on and plug up the same as yoru factory alternator.
Will the pulley need to be oversized (to run slower) because we rev these engines to 8000-9000rpms?
I can do mods to the alternators to keep it from coming apart at high rpms. (see last response below)
Can I get a higher amperage alternator made...say like a 240amp unit?
180 amp is the only amperage I build for those. You cannot get a relaible 240 amp alternator from that unit.
What about high rpm use and bearing longevitiy? Can I use the OEM size pulley? How many amps does this actually put out? When will we have one to test on an Evo?
I have the first alternator together for some testing and am getting about 225 amps out of it. I am going to do some rotor mods tonight and make sure it will be reliable at high rpms for you guys. I will also test it with the factory pulley to see what it does with it installed. I will ship the alternator with the overdrive pulley on it and will include the factory size pulley in the box with it if you guys want to do on the vehicle testing as well. I will be putting in the NTN bearings in these units for you guys. Im testing now and should be shipping this alt in about 1-2 days once it is finished and tested out to my satisfaction
Can you take a picture of the alternator to show customers what it looks like? (detailed pics of NTN bearings)
khmerpimpin and myself are working with an alternator vendor to get a high amperage alternator produced for Evo 8's and 9's. We have both discussed our needs for a higher output alternator and thus we've contacted several alternator vendors to come up with what we feel is the best alternator for the money.
- OEM Alternator is 90 amps... this unit is 180 amps.
- The alternator is NEW, not refurbed or rebuilt. No core required.
- The alternator is plug-n-play with same electrical connector and external case.
- The alternator has an underdrive pulley to give more output at lower engine speeds. *can be ordered with OEM size* **underdrive belt will require a new length belt**
- ETA for shipping - Build time is ~ 14 days for 10 alternators, expected time from order is 3-4 weeks.
- Price - PM for details
- Guy takes paypal and I assume credit/debit cards.
- 1 year warranty.
Nate at Excessive Amperage is the person behind the alternator work. People who have expressed interest or committed to buy the alternator will receive a bulk PM from me detailing how to pay Nate for the alternator and details for the payment. If you're not ready to buy just yet and want to wait for the OEM pulley size testing on the car, that's perfectly ok. The data will be presented when the time comes and you'll have the information to get in on the group buy pricing! If you're just not seeing this thread and would like to get in it, shoot me a PM for GB pricing and payment info.
We have 9 people committed so far, need 1 more to hit the 10 units required to get a price break on these. (updated 11/8/2012)
If you're interested please PM me and we'll get you down on the list. We're not making any money on these... we just want to have them made.
*****
and for those of you interested on WHY a non-audio Evo would want a high output alternator?
2 fuel pumps, 55 watt HIDs, trunk mounted 4lb lithium battery, aftermarket rad fan, additional gauges and sensors, and a Coil on Plug ignition system with additional dwell. My car will blow the spark out due to the voltage dropping from 14.3 cruising to 13.1 underload. The problem is worse at night (with electrical load) Rather than run a 1000 dollar CDI box or buy a voltage stabilizer (HKS DLI - which is a bandaid) FIX the problem for real with an alternator that is sized to supply enough current to keep your voltage stable.
******
Questions and Answers from Alternator Manufacturer
Can we use the OEM pulley rather than the underdrive unit?
I can use the OEM pulley on them if they would like. I dont know if they will charge at idle with the OEM pulley though.
Are there any options that customers can add to their order?
I can powdercoat most colors for $40 *If any are to be powdercoated, this will take an extra day or two if I have the color in stock.
I also can set them up with an external adjustable voltage regulator for $130. This will allow you to control the voltage anywhere between 13-20 volts.
What is the turn around time for you to ship the alternators from the time we place the order?
I will say 3 week build time for all 10 alternators. The time to build will depend on how many alts I have to get out at the time the order is placed as well. *If any are to be powdercoated, this will take an extra day or two if I have the color in stock. (R/TErnie: expect 3-4 weeks... I will give priority to customers who are dire need. For example... my car still runs... I can wait)
Will the electrical connector that is on the alternator be the same as the stock unit? 100% plug and play?
Yes, it will be 100% direct bolt on and the harness will plug right in. The only way it will not plug in is if they choose the external adjustable voltage option.
Will the external case be the same dimensions as the OEM unit? will it be bigger and harder to fit in the car?
I will custom build these in the factory housings so there will be no fitment issues. They will bolt on and plug up the same as yoru factory alternator.
Will the pulley need to be oversized (to run slower) because we rev these engines to 8000-9000rpms?
I can do mods to the alternators to keep it from coming apart at high rpms. (see last response below)
Can I get a higher amperage alternator made...say like a 240amp unit?
180 amp is the only amperage I build for those. You cannot get a relaible 240 amp alternator from that unit.
What about high rpm use and bearing longevitiy? Can I use the OEM size pulley? How many amps does this actually put out? When will we have one to test on an Evo?
I have the first alternator together for some testing and am getting about 225 amps out of it. I am going to do some rotor mods tonight and make sure it will be reliable at high rpms for you guys. I will also test it with the factory pulley to see what it does with it installed. I will ship the alternator with the overdrive pulley on it and will include the factory size pulley in the box with it if you guys want to do on the vehicle testing as well. I will be putting in the NTN bearings in these units for you guys. Im testing now and should be shipping this alt in about 1-2 days once it is finished and tested out to my satisfaction
Can you take a picture of the alternator to show customers what it looks like? (detailed pics of NTN bearings)
Last edited by R/TErnie; Nov 21, 2012 at 08:53 AM.
Nov 6, 2012, 03:07 PM
#2
Come on Guys Lets Get 6 More in the Group Buy please. I need a New Alternator because my stock one is either dieing or not putting out enough juice 
i dont know which one but i just need a new one anyways 
BTW thanks R/TErnie for making this happen.
i dont know which one but i just need a new one anyways BTW thanks R/TErnie for making this happen.
Nov 6, 2012, 05:02 PM
#4
Interesting. So with the under drive pulley can the same serpentine belt be used? I assume it is recommended to replace the main fuse on the battery with a larger one with this alternator? Would we be stuck only going through this vendor for any rebuilds/ replacements?
Nov 6, 2012, 08:46 PM
#7
Eric, you mind explaining more on this. Mostly, I'm looking at potential drawbacks. Can a stock wiring harness deal with this double amperage alternator just being bolted up? Any other considerations? If it's an all gain, no drawback type of thing I am probably going to be a name to add to the list, as I think my car could benefit.
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Nov 7, 2012, 08:04 AM
#11
1st post updated with 6 people committed and another 8 interested, waitng on details, or just uncommitted!
I'm not sure if you can use the OEM serpentine belt with the underdrive pulley. I could take a guess, but I do not know. The OEM tensioner has a good bit of movement in it, but I guess it depends on the % underdrive and how much belt length that removes. In any case I suspect if it DOES need a new belt, we could pick up a nice replacement belt that was shorter for less than 15 dollars at NAPA, Schucks, etc. If it does need a belt, then I will be the first to share part numbers and cross reference numbers with everyone regarding which belt to use, so people don't have to drive to the store with their Evo on jackstands looking for a belt.
With regards to the fuse to the main battery... I plan on upgrading the "big 3" when I do the alternator...which requires you to add additional wires to the pre-existing wires. I think in that case they DO use a higher amperage fuse/breaker/fusible link in the additional wire. There are several audio sites that cover the big 3 upgrade, so I'll try not to paraphrase what they do.
But I would say it would be wise to upgrade the fuse. You could try it without
Thing is... how much more current does your system need to maintain 14 volts? if it's just a little more than what you currently have... the fuse will probably work fine. I know people have swapped/rebuilt their alternators for Evo's with higher amperage stuff without upgrading the wiring, but just because they've done it doesn't necessarily make it right.
The vendor is well established and has been doing this a while... and was recommended to myself and khmerpimpin by at least 4-5 other alternator shops (DC, mechman, etc.) including a bunch of audiophiles I met at SEMA... To the question of replacements and rebuilds... I'd have to ask him if other alternator shops could service or replace components. I would suspect yes, but we'll have to ask him. I think if it were just him able to service and repair these units, that would be fine given his long history in making alternators. None the less... we'll ask him!
And I have no problem shipping overseas as long as you're a good standing Evom member...which you fit the mold RJSP Just depends on if the E7,E8,E9 alternator fits the E5.
With regards to the fuse to the main battery... I plan on upgrading the "big 3" when I do the alternator...which requires you to add additional wires to the pre-existing wires. I think in that case they DO use a higher amperage fuse/breaker/fusible link in the additional wire. There are several audio sites that cover the big 3 upgrade, so I'll try not to paraphrase what they do.
But I would say it would be wise to upgrade the fuse. You could try it without
Thing is... how much more current does your system need to maintain 14 volts? if it's just a little more than what you currently have... the fuse will probably work fine. I know people have swapped/rebuilt their alternators for Evo's with higher amperage stuff without upgrading the wiring, but just because they've done it doesn't necessarily make it right. The vendor is well established and has been doing this a while... and was recommended to myself and khmerpimpin by at least 4-5 other alternator shops (DC, mechman, etc.) including a bunch of audiophiles I met at SEMA... To the question of replacements and rebuilds... I'd have to ask him if other alternator shops could service or replace components. I would suspect yes, but we'll have to ask him. I think if it were just him able to service and repair these units, that would be fine given his long history in making alternators. None the less... we'll ask him!
And I have no problem shipping overseas as long as you're a good standing Evom member...which you fit the mold RJSP
Just depends on if the E7,E8,E9 alternator fits the E5.
Last edited by R/TErnie; Nov 7, 2012 at 08:13 AM.
Nov 7, 2012, 08:44 AM
#12
Eric, you mind explaining more on this. Mostly, I'm looking at potential drawbacks. Can a stock wiring harness deal with this double amperage alternator just being bolted up? Any other considerations? If it's an all gain, no drawback type of thing I am probably going to be a name to add to the list, as I think my car could benefit.
also relocted the battery to the rear and up graded the fuses for the Switch type.
Last edited by blowngasket; Nov 7, 2012 at 08:51 AM.
Nov 7, 2012, 03:28 PM
#15
I've upgraded alternators in both my other cars from 65-70A to 130A, and I am a supporter of this idea.
A few notes:
I wouldn't assume an underdrive pulley to be a necessity in many (if not most) cases. A larger capacity alternator delivers more current at idle with the original pulley.
I don't see a reason to upgrade the 40A master fuse unless it's causing issues as is. The fuse sees only current demand, not supply. 40A X 12V = 4800 watts.
- 55w HIDs draw about 3.5A each when warm.
- 100W halogens draw about 8.3A each.
- Walbro 255s draw about 7A each at idle and about 10A under load
- 1000W worth of stereo equipment however will draw 90+A when cranked.
But this is drawn directly from the battery, so it's a matter of battery and alternator capacity only, not the master fuse.
I don't know the current demands of most aftermarket ignitions, but those represent a high instantaneous current draw, which is largely buffered by the battery. If the battery capacity is small and the alternator undersized, that may be enough to cause a voltage drop under load.
A few notes:
I wouldn't assume an underdrive pulley to be a necessity in many (if not most) cases. A larger capacity alternator delivers more current at idle with the original pulley.
I don't see a reason to upgrade the 40A master fuse unless it's causing issues as is. The fuse sees only current demand, not supply. 40A X 12V = 4800 watts.
- 55w HIDs draw about 3.5A each when warm.
- 100W halogens draw about 8.3A each.
- Walbro 255s draw about 7A each at idle and about 10A under load
- 1000W worth of stereo equipment however will draw 90+A when cranked.
But this is drawn directly from the battery, so it's a matter of battery and alternator capacity only, not the master fuse.I don't know the current demands of most aftermarket ignitions, but those represent a high instantaneous current draw, which is largely buffered by the battery. If the battery capacity is small and the alternator undersized, that may be enough to cause a voltage drop under load.