LacouK600

Is there anything I need to know before removing it?? I dropped the tranny today cause I'm replacing my clutch and it was a b!tch to get out cause of the subframe/cross member and I can't imagine getting it back in correctly with it still bolted up. On Hondas I know the steering rack is not connected to the subframe/crossmember, you can just unbolt it and it comes out. Is it the same with the evo?? Can I just unbolt it and drop it out or is there anything connected to it like steering rack components etc.???? Any heads up in removing it before I attempt it tomorrow would be great. Thanks in advance

ILuvJDM

iTrader: (12)

Remove the small (10mm or 12mm) nut on the steering column where it joins the splined section of the steering rack. Now remove the tie rod ends and LCA's from the spindle, then remove the 6 nuts/bolts that hold the subframe to the car and she will fall out. Now you can either remove the high pressure line from the pump on the front of the motor (easy way) or you can remove it from the actual pump like I did the first time (pain in the ***). The return line is easiest disconnected near the bottom of the passenger side firewall, on the rack itself (you can see the silver line near the sway bar)

this should let you visualize the mounting points and such... on each side there is a nut that is near the swaybar endlink in this picture. Towards the back of the subframe there is a large bolt that goes through the rear bushing on the LCA and into the car, then a smaller bolt just behind that...

LacouK600

Appreciate the response! Sounds straight forward, just one more question, you had mentioned the subframe will come off before you mentioned removal of the pressure lines. The car is maybe a foot and a half off the ground, can I unbolt the subframe and let it sit on the ground without removing any of the pressure lines or would I still have to disconnect them??

90blackawdtsi

I find it easier to lower the sub frame, Remove the sway bar and leave the rack in place making sure it stays secure.

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

Based on just needing access to put the trans back in, 5sp I assume, I would just lower the subframe a few inches and leave the hydronic lines connected. Bleeding the steering is easy enough but it doesn't seem necessary.

The trans should have come out pretty easy though. It makes me wonder if so etching else is going on and your getting into the subframe unnecessarily. Was the engine hanging on the one upper mount, pointed down, and slightly pushed forward at the bell housing? The Tcase is always a ***** but not the trans. Maybe that's what you meant and I missed it.

Nice pic Iluvjdm. I am doing a front sway bar this week,a dn that came in handy. The subframe bolts are the only ones on the whole car I haven't yet turned.

ILuvJDM

iTrader: (12)

No problem, those bolts are torqued high, so get a nice cheater bar to knock them right off

LacouK600

I have the t case tied up chillin there, I think the reason the tranny was so difficult to get out was because I left the bracket that bolts to the motor mount on it and was getting hung up on the cross member, imma take it off putting it back in. And yes the motor his hanging downwards on the one passenger side mount. I had a friend pull the motor forward as I wiggled the tranny to get it of the subframe to carry out out the car. I know there is a lot of write ups of uninstalling but not installing the tranny. What would y'all say is the easiest route to take installing the tranny to get it stabbed in place properly?? Lowering the subframe a few inches like previously stated was a good start, any other pointers?? Thanks guys

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

Well, I have done it twice with a 6 speed, and never touched the cross member/sub frame. We'll except for banging against it here or there. Definitely had the mounts all off the trans though. The rear is a pita, 'firewall', until you figure out what combination of wrenches get to each bolt/nut, and then its pretty easy.

LacouK600

The only other part besides that motor mount bracket that was hitting the cross member giving me trouble getting it out is that putter most bolt on the tranny housing as you could see its a little banged up from getting caught up, should I try to pull the motor more forward to avoid it hitting the subframe, I think if the motor woulda came forward an inch n a half more it woulda cleared it. And another question, I was reading on an older post not the let the shaft of the tranny rest on the splines of the clutch for not even a second without bolting it up or else your disk is messed up and has to be replaced, is that true?? Cause I've done it a few times sliding the tranny in place on other cars with no problems. Sorry for the tranny looking nasty in the pic, the cv boot tore the day before I started pulling the tranny

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

I think I had my radiator out both times, so there was lots of room to pry the engine forward. However, the 6 speed is even more problematic. But, yes, have someone pushing it forward or wedge it forward to make the clearance.

I have wrestled the trans on the shaft like that both times in and out. There is no other way to do that, and for a bit its that way but soon resting on the guide pins. I wouldn't worry about that. I never did. If you do it with a floor jack and support it as you wiggle and slide it at and angle up and on, it is supported as well. I used a floor jack, and not a trans jack, but used a couple of jury rigged 2x4s to cradle the thing. Its for sure a 2 man thing, maybe 3 if you can get em.

chad99evo

iTrader: (24)

engine hoist on rear tranny end(over drivers side-most part)+ floor jack under motor + help from a friend underneath, lower subframe 3/4 inch = quick/smoothest.

left radiator, hose, all steering components attached, lcas attached of course.

chad99evo

iTrader: (24)

yes, the more the merrier. pry bar or one(person) on top rock engine forward. rough job by yourself. go for least fun garage-floor trans R&R lol

i think my nerve damage and plate/screws in neck made it worse...

LacouK600

Thanks for all the advice! I also use floor jacks and 2x4's on all my tranny swaps cause I don't have a tranny jack, and good to hear having it sit on the splines won't mess up the clutch disk, I heard that it would and it had worried me a bit, I'm gonna lower the subframe a bit as recommended above and possibly remove the radiator to make it that much easier and get a couple friends to help in the process. Thanks for all the pointers! Much appreciated!

chad99evo

iTrader: (24)

cool. dont forget to back out the 14s and the long bolts. i was a dummy and got the front most nuts down but didnt back the long bots out enough at first

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, I am in the middle of this task, and everything going easy so far, except the steering rod ball joints. They just won't back out of the knuckle. The LCA ball joints just slid off by hand, but the steering rod ones won't budge. Either side they are the same. I have pounded on them, used a pry fork, essentially ruining the boot on one.

Is there something holding them that I cannot see? Were they this hard for you guys?

I am thinking to go to HD to buy a torch to see if heat will help. Any ideas?