clanzkiller

I know there are alot of the same thread in this forum regarding this problem, and in fact, i've spend almost 2 weeks and read mostly all of them back to 2006 with the search keyword of 'bad idle, stall, fluctuate, engine die, rpm rise, etc'.

Somehow, i still couldn't get the problem solved.
So, i just want to make a progress of what i've done to counter this problem and if there is any miss-out, i might be too stress over this matter.

Intro:
Evo IX, ecuflash, GSC S1, Blitz SUS AF, Apexi 3' mid pipe from cat to exhaust, OEM Evo IX Turbo upgraded, ported to kinugawa 20g billet fin, ORC Super Single Racing Clutch, Wallbro 255lph, Sard FR, Denso Iridium Plug, Greddy Type-S BOV with HKS piping kit modified mount, trunk battery.

History:
(*ONLY HAPPEN WHEN AC IS ON)
Before recently, everything seems ok, RPM does fluctuate and sometimes stall itself during neutral, or stall when coming to a stop. But DOES NOT die. So i do not really bother seems that time i also couldn't find any solution to it.

2 weeks ago,
(*ONLY HAPPEN WHEN AC IS ON)
Had my new Ogura Racing Clutch Super Single (come with a lighter flywheel just fyi) installed due to slippage on the OEM clutch. Changed the throwout bearing to a new one as well, flush & fill the transmission with mt85.

And, from that day onwards, the engine tend to stall, rpm fluctuate, and finally, it shut off itself during any gear coming to a stop especially cornering, even in a slow speed without WOT/whack/boost/wateva. And there are few times i almost run into divider and other vehicle due to NO PS when engine dead. So, i've decided to take this matter seriously and up till today, no solution.

Progress will be update so just in case fellow evos ix has similar problem they can refer back to this thread.

CHECKED:
-Boost Leak, found out the o-ring between the shaft that hold the throttle plate both side has worn out, so replaced. Problem persist.
-Increase idle AC with ecuflash to 1200rpm. Problem persist.
-MAF Sensor clean with pressurize air. Problem persist.
-Tested BOV, neutral with AC on, press throttle till 5-6k few times, and it drop right back to 1k, or sometimes fluctuate once or twice. On the road, 2nd gear, WOT til 5-6k rpm, and clutch in, neutral, and it does not stall, but fluctuate till my car totally STOP and back to idle.

6 July 2013, Check list
-Biss screw adjusted with evoscan, problem persist.
-VVTI (Mivec) mapping 500,750,1000, load 10-60 down back to 0, and slowly increase bit by bit. Problem persist.
-IAC, took out and everything looks fine, clean it, put it back, check if it clicks and yes, everything seems fine, but problem persist.
-EGR connected checked.
-resetting ecu, problem persist.
-MAF cleaned with contact cleaner, problem persist.

IN-PROGRESS:
-Swapping BOV


We're trying to determine EXACTLY what is the caused so we decided to fix one by one, instead of 1 time all together.

He fixed, i try, if problem persist, visit again, fix another one, and try, and continue until it totally fixed.

Would appreciate anyone that can help me to pin point or make a suggestion.
Thanks

joseph143

iTrader: (8)

Mine does... Or did the last time i drove it as well... Exactly as you describe but also when i would gun it and as i backed off it would pulse the idle til 5mph if i let it slow down to that point. If i would cruise again it would stop.
The really weird part is if i went WOT then backed into a cruise then next time i would coast, sometime several minutes later, it would do it.

The only mod we have in common is the battery in the trunk for what its worth.

I have logged this "condition" several times and spoke with Aaron at english on dozens of occasions to have it tune back out... Of course i was thinking it is tune related.

The addition of the 2.3l motor and low vacuum aggravated the issue on my car and if my ac was on it might pulse once or twice and then die/stall... So i pulled the ac. However i did still have the issues with pulsing during a turn causing the car to shut off.

I started to list my mods just now but that wouldnt help since it has happen on both previous setups... On a slew of various parts. I guess the only ones that common between the builds were fp4r cams, mil spec tb, battery reloc, muse l/uicp, cheap intercooler, with and withou ac compressor, cobb 3" catcback,

Anyway like i said i dont believe we have much in common and any other mod i have or had either isnt on the car or wasnt on the first build so it is safe to assume they weren't the cause.

nismo05

iTrader: (15)

If you are experiencing the problem while turning, check the power steering idle compensation sensor. That wire has a tendency of breaking off.

AdamAndEvo

Mine did this a bunch and I found the vac line to the ear kept blowing off... It didn't make the car drive bad. Just would die when I would be in parking lots turning or stall when backing up.

clanzkiller

It happened even without turning. For example, cruising on the highway with 5th gear, 2-3k rpm, and if suddenly i press brake and wanted to downshift 4th gear with normal shifting speed, it will directly die in between the shifting. So i have to do a speed shiftng or play with the throttle pedal a little in order to keep it running.

I am sorry but what do u meant by 'ear'?

acssa

iTrader: (2)

my car does the same... I got mine better by running very low timing at idle/1000rpm 3 deg.
Better but not perfect.

joseph143

iTrader: (8)

Funny story... Yes... I just soldered it back on last week... Now i just gotta test your theory

GhostAWD

iTrader: (3)

i think he meant 'EGR' common vacuum that pops off and causes erratic idle/shut off if disconnected

tsidrift1

iTrader: (46)

I just solved some nasty idle issued on my car in the beginning of tuning. Mine was all with the biss being out of line. Got it all sorted out though.

joseph143

iTrader: (8)

Thats something i have noticed... My tuner likes to have me adjust the biss to set idle... And if its pulled back it cause the fluctuation to be worse but never stopped it... I closed the biss and set everything electronically myself

clanzkiller

Thanks for the input. Afaik, BISS screw does fluctuate Rpm, but do not make the engine die off. But since i just fixed the leakage at my TB, and we havent got the time to adjust the BISS via SAS. will definately try it and update here the progress.
As for the EGR, will check it out on the next visit.
Thanks guys

mdsevo06

iTrader: (41)

Could be your MAF. You don't want to use pressurized air to clean or dry, just CRC MAF cleaner and let it dry, and repeat a few times. I had the same problem with my MAF and after going SD, never had those issure again. I didn't go SD for power gains, but for pure drivability.

clanzkiller

Seems legit. Will try it... thanks

clanzkiller

Just an update,
Rod knock detected. Might be due to leakage at the exhaust pulley side.

Found this vid in youtube. I think is the same sound...but mine is not as terrible as his even idling it can be heard clearly...only clear on 2k rpm above

clanzkiller

My bearing was spun and damaging the crankshaft. So now looking forward to replace an used oem crankshaft and build it up, in the same time replacing the timing belt and fixed the leak. Lets see if there is any relation to the idle problem.