Evowith750awhp

iTrader: (1)

Alright, so I'm stumped at the moment. I just finished my 2.3 build and install into my car, and it just cranks and cranks. Every now and then it will seem like it's going to kick over but nothing. It is getting fuel as I can smell fuel after a little while of cranking, and the spark plugs are covered in fuel.

Could it be the CPS? Everything worked fine when it took it apart. Also, I was told to possibly look at the Crank plate and see if it's on backwards. I don't even know how you could tell honestly. Also, do I need to pull the motor to get that out or check that? I just spent a LONG time putting that in, and really don't feel like pulling it back out. Can someone help at all? I'd like to see my car get on the road ASAP as I have been without it now for 9 months.

MRfabolous

iTrader: (17)

pull the spark plugs and see if they are getting spark if not then start with cam position sensor then crank sensor. that sounds like that is where your problem is.

superbovine

iTrader: (23)

Fuel pump is triggered by the crank sensor. If you have fuel it is highly unlikely the crank sensor is at fault unless you put on one of those cheapo ones that pushes ~3V.

Evowith750awhp

iTrader: (1)

it's the factory CPS, and was working when it came off. With a spun rod bearing i could still crank it and run it.

ok, I'll double check the CAS's. Do the CAS's also control the injector timing?

superbovine

iTrader: (23)

I'll base timing originates at the crank sensor. The cam sensor determines what stroke the crank is on, a the most basic level.
If you have fuel pump activation you should have spark and injector pulse. There are a few exceptions of course (immobilizer problem, no injector pulse; cam/crank correlation issue can result in spark cut).

You can use a scope to measure your cam and crank sensors to make sure you are getting a full 5V square wave. If you don't have a scope you can use a test meter and rotate the engine by hand to at least see if you get full voltage (won't tell you if the signal is dirty though of course).

Stick to your basics first though...... nothing left unplugged/unhooked, verify spark, verify fuel pulse/delivery, verify belt timing. If it ran before it is highly unlikely you all of a sudden need a crank or cam sensor. Shiat doesn't just go bad sitting on a bench.

Evowith750awhp

iTrader: (1)

Anyone able to give me a quick reminder on how to get the cam sensor timing down again? It's been a while since I've done it.