No Start, fuel pump, no starter (Intermittent)
#1
No Start, fuel pump, no starter (Intermittent)
Ok, I got one for all the gurus. Did a bunch of detailing this week including the valve cover paint, calipers, etc. Washed the car and put it in the garage. Went out later and the ungrateful "b!7ch" refused to start.
When I turn the key I hear the fuel pump prime and the starter doesn't do anything. If I get pissed off and flick the key to start like 50 times, it might catch and turn over.
So, to summarize:
I turn the key and the fuel pump comes on but the starter doesn't engage.
Here's what I checked:
Verified that the signal wire going to the starter is getting 12V when I turn the key (every time I turn the key). - 12.0V-12.3V depending on the battery.
Checked all fuses both under the hood and in the cabin. - found my AC fuse was blown so I replaced it.
tapped the starter with a hammer and tried to start it - that did nothing...
Also, the starter is less than 2 years old (remanufactured)
The background - I spent the week detailing the car. Painted the calipers. stripped the valve cover and painted it. Everything went together and started up fine. Then after washing it, then driving it back into my garage, I let it sit for a few hours. When I tried to start it, I got the issue above. I checked the battery, even hooked up a jumper just in case. Nothing worked until I kept clicking it (trying to start it) and it caught after about 20 times.
This morning when I finally got it started, I immediately had a CEL. The error was for either Cam Angle Sensor or Crank position Sensor. I honestly can't remember which one cause I was really pissed off at this point, but I believe it was the crank angle sensor. I cleared the CEL, the car ran fine for a short 5 mile drive. Then I parked it and turned it off to get gas and when I tried to start it, I got the issue above.. Eventually getting it home (after 20 minutes of fiddling with it), I checked the things listed above.
Looking for any help on this. Would a bad crank angle or cam position sensor cause these types of issues? Anyone have any thoughts that don't involve buying parts blindly?
When I turn the key I hear the fuel pump prime and the starter doesn't do anything. If I get pissed off and flick the key to start like 50 times, it might catch and turn over.
So, to summarize:
I turn the key and the fuel pump comes on but the starter doesn't engage.
Here's what I checked:
Verified that the signal wire going to the starter is getting 12V when I turn the key (every time I turn the key). - 12.0V-12.3V depending on the battery.
Checked all fuses both under the hood and in the cabin. - found my AC fuse was blown so I replaced it.
tapped the starter with a hammer and tried to start it - that did nothing...
Also, the starter is less than 2 years old (remanufactured)
The background - I spent the week detailing the car. Painted the calipers. stripped the valve cover and painted it. Everything went together and started up fine. Then after washing it, then driving it back into my garage, I let it sit for a few hours. When I tried to start it, I got the issue above. I checked the battery, even hooked up a jumper just in case. Nothing worked until I kept clicking it (trying to start it) and it caught after about 20 times.
This morning when I finally got it started, I immediately had a CEL. The error was for either Cam Angle Sensor or Crank position Sensor. I honestly can't remember which one cause I was really pissed off at this point, but I believe it was the crank angle sensor. I cleared the CEL, the car ran fine for a short 5 mile drive. Then I parked it and turned it off to get gas and when I tried to start it, I got the issue above.. Eventually getting it home (after 20 minutes of fiddling with it), I checked the things listed above.
Looking for any help on this. Would a bad crank angle or cam position sensor cause these types of issues? Anyone have any thoughts that don't involve buying parts blindly?
#5
Thanks everyone. I've been through this before and found the solution. It was none of the things mentioned above or anywhere else on this site.
I had this issue a couple of years back and went through everything you can think of. I replaced the starter twice, replaced the key column, replaced fuses, added grounds, this list goes on. In the end it was as simple as adding a 12V relay to the small trigger wire going to the starter.
What I finally found was that I was getting 12V at the starter, but it was short on amps. I added a 12V 40 amp relay in line to the trigger wire and bingo!!
Previously I had a 12V 20 amp relay and apparently it burned out.
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. If anyone else has this issue, I'd be glad to explain in further detail if you need it.
I had this issue a couple of years back and went through everything you can think of. I replaced the starter twice, replaced the key column, replaced fuses, added grounds, this list goes on. In the end it was as simple as adding a 12V relay to the small trigger wire going to the starter.
What I finally found was that I was getting 12V at the starter, but it was short on amps. I added a 12V 40 amp relay in line to the trigger wire and bingo!!
Previously I had a 12V 20 amp relay and apparently it burned out.
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. If anyone else has this issue, I'd be glad to explain in further detail if you need it.
#6
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (6)
That's not a bad idea to overcome the flimsy starter trigger circuit, but there is an easier way...
The 12V trigger wire that goes to the starter is already triggered by a relay. Adding another relay is redundant, because the relay you need is already there.
Power from the ignition switch is routed to both pins 2 and 3 on the starter relay. That means the small power source from the ignition switch not only closes the starter relay, but is used to trigger the starter as well.
What one should be able to do is remove the ignition switch connection from pin 2 of the factory relay, leaving it only to pin 3. Instead, connect a larger current power source to pin 2. The result should be that the low current source from the ignition switch only closes the relay. When that switch is closed, the higher current source routed the other side of the relay will trigger the starter. One could also increase the gauge of the starter trigger wire, but it may be unnecessary.
The 12V trigger wire that goes to the starter is already triggered by a relay. Adding another relay is redundant, because the relay you need is already there.
Power from the ignition switch is routed to both pins 2 and 3 on the starter relay. That means the small power source from the ignition switch not only closes the starter relay, but is used to trigger the starter as well.
What one should be able to do is remove the ignition switch connection from pin 2 of the factory relay, leaving it only to pin 3. Instead, connect a larger current power source to pin 2. The result should be that the low current source from the ignition switch only closes the relay. When that switch is closed, the higher current source routed the other side of the relay will trigger the starter. One could also increase the gauge of the starter trigger wire, but it may be unnecessary.
Last edited by Ted B; May 7, 2014 at 08:12 AM.
#7
Thanks everyone. I've been through this before and found the solution. It was none of the things mentioned above or anywhere else on this site.
I had this issue a couple of years back and went through everything you can think of. I replaced the starter twice, replaced the key column, replaced fuses, added grounds, this list goes on. In the end it was as simple as adding a 12V relay to the small trigger wire going to the starter.
What I finally found was that I was getting 12V at the starter, but it was short on amps. I added a 12V 40 amp relay in line to the trigger wire and bingo!!
Previously I had a 12V 20 amp relay and apparently it burned out.
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. If anyone else has this issue, I'd be glad to explain in further detail if you need it.
I had this issue a couple of years back and went through everything you can think of. I replaced the starter twice, replaced the key column, replaced fuses, added grounds, this list goes on. In the end it was as simple as adding a 12V relay to the small trigger wire going to the starter.
What I finally found was that I was getting 12V at the starter, but it was short on amps. I added a 12V 40 amp relay in line to the trigger wire and bingo!!
Previously I had a 12V 20 amp relay and apparently it burned out.
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. If anyone else has this issue, I'd be glad to explain in further detail if you need it.
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